Fiberglass ???
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From: Ohio
Fiberglass ???
While I have built many sub boxes in my day, I have never used anything but mdf. This time around since space is such a premium I am going with a hybrid approach, both fiberglass and mdf and combination sub box and amp rack. I have never used fiberglass and was hoping I could get some help from someone with a little more experience in this area. I plan to fiberglass the bottom to get the most air space possible while keeping the box completely under the seat.
To the questions...
1. How many layers should I lay to maintain the strength and cut down on flex?
2. What brand of resin should I get?
3. About how much resin and glass will I need? The area getting glassed is approximately 10" x 32".
Any other pointers would be much appreciated.
Specifics:
About .45 cu. ft.
Ported
1 JL Audio 8W3V3
JL Audio 250/1
Thanks in advance for the help guys.
Pictures...
To the questions...
1. How many layers should I lay to maintain the strength and cut down on flex?
2. What brand of resin should I get?
3. About how much resin and glass will I need? The area getting glassed is approximately 10" x 32".
Any other pointers would be much appreciated.
Specifics:
About .45 cu. ft.
Ported
1 JL Audio 8W3V3
JL Audio 250/1
Thanks in advance for the help guys.
Pictures...
Before you do this make sure you cover your carpet completely and with multiple layers! Tape and aluminum foil. You don't want ANY resin getting on to your carpet because you will not be able to get it out.
1. Just do one quick layer in the truck so you can get the mold and take it out and add 6-7 layers. If you're planning on having the sub firing up you dont have to worry much about the glass layer because it will be against the floor of the cab and wont flex that much. If you're making it downfiring, you want it strong enough that you can stand on it without it flexing much.
2. Brand of resin and glass doesn't really matter. You can get the stuff they have at Home Depot (Bondo brand I think) and it works just as good as anything else. Just be careful with how much hardener you use.
3. I'd say get 3 gallons of resin, but it really depends on how many layers you end up using.
Fiberglassing really isn't that difficult. The prep work is the hardest part. Since you wont really have to worry about making it smooth and pretty it'll be super easy. Pick up a respirator from Home Depot or something if you don't all ready have one because the fumes will get you too high to work in no time, and wear long sleeves because peeling resin and glass off of your skin SUCKS.
1. Just do one quick layer in the truck so you can get the mold and take it out and add 6-7 layers. If you're planning on having the sub firing up you dont have to worry much about the glass layer because it will be against the floor of the cab and wont flex that much. If you're making it downfiring, you want it strong enough that you can stand on it without it flexing much.
2. Brand of resin and glass doesn't really matter. You can get the stuff they have at Home Depot (Bondo brand I think) and it works just as good as anything else. Just be careful with how much hardener you use.
3. I'd say get 3 gallons of resin, but it really depends on how many layers you end up using.
Fiberglassing really isn't that difficult. The prep work is the hardest part. Since you wont really have to worry about making it smooth and pretty it'll be super easy. Pick up a respirator from Home Depot or something if you don't all ready have one because the fumes will get you too high to work in no time, and wear long sleeves because peeling resin and glass off of your skin SUCKS.
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BTW is that particle bored? If it is i would rebuild using MDF. Also what airspace would the box have if you don't fiberglass? I personally don't like fiber glass, i feel you lose output.
Another option you could do, something i've done and works. You could build the whole Enclosure using .5" MDF and run a single Areo Port out the side facing the passenger door.
Another option you could do, something i've done and works. You could build the whole Enclosure using .5" MDF and run a single Areo Port out the side facing the passenger door.
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Ohio
What is the benefit of mdf over particle board, I guess I always thought they were the same. Only about 2/3 of the frame is going to be used for the enclosure, the rest will be the amp "rack". Actually the airspace isn't so much the concern as is the mounting depth. I figured a 1/4" of fiberglass compared to 3/4" wood. This is still in the early design phase so any suggestions are appreciated. Especially with the expertise I see in this forum. Thanks for the help so far guys.
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 327
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From: Austin, Tx
Yeah big difference in particle board, osb and mdf.
Think of the size of the wood particles used in each types manufacturing process.
osb = large rough shapes sliced then glued
particle board = smaller pieces than osb but still large compared to mdf
mdf = basically sawdust glued and pressed. very dense stuff
Think of the size of the wood particles used in each types manufacturing process.
osb = large rough shapes sliced then glued
particle board = smaller pieces than osb but still large compared to mdf
mdf = basically sawdust glued and pressed. very dense stuff
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The "industry" standard is MDF for sub boxes. Thats why most people say to stay away from the prefab boxes you get at Best Buy or on eBay because they're mostly made with particle board or something equally crappy.
MDF is the way to go. You could use some normal birch/maple plywood but MDF is normally cheaper anyway. And if you're worried about mounting depth you can get away with using 5/8" or 1/2" MDF, but be sure to brace it well and glass over the joints in the wood.
MDF is the way to go. You could use some normal birch/maple plywood but MDF is normally cheaper anyway. And if you're worried about mounting depth you can get away with using 5/8" or 1/2" MDF, but be sure to brace it well and glass over the joints in the wood.
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The "industry" standard is MDF for sub boxes. Thats why most people say to stay away from the prefab boxes you get at Best Buy or on eBay because they're mostly made with particle board or something equally crappy.
MDF is the way to go. You could use some normal birch/maple plywood but MDF is normally cheaper anyway. And if you're worried about mounting depth you can get away with using 5/8" or 1/2" MDF, but be sure to brace it well and glass over the joints in the wood.
MDF is the way to go. You could use some normal birch/maple plywood but MDF is normally cheaper anyway. And if you're worried about mounting depth you can get away with using 5/8" or 1/2" MDF, but be sure to brace it well and glass over the joints in the wood.
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Maricopa, AZ
Before you do this make sure you cover your carpet completely and with multiple layers! Tape and aluminum foil. You don't want ANY resin getting on to your carpet because you will not be able to get it out.
1. Just do one quick layer in the truck so you can get the mold and take it out and add 6-7 layers. If you're planning on having the sub firing up you dont have to worry much about the glass layer because it will be against the floor of the cab and wont flex that much. If you're making it downfiring, you want it strong enough that you can stand on it without it flexing much.
2. Brand of resin and glass doesn't really matter. You can get the stuff they have at Home Depot (Bondo brand I think) and it works just as good as anything else. Just be careful with how much hardener you use.
3. I'd say get 3 gallons of resin, but it really depends on how many layers you end up using.
Fiberglassing really isn't that difficult. The prep work is the hardest part. Since you wont really have to worry about making it smooth and pretty it'll be super easy. Pick up a respirator from Home Depot or something if you don't all ready have one because the fumes will get you too high to work in no time, and wear long sleeves because peeling resin and glass off of your skin SUCKS.
1. Just do one quick layer in the truck so you can get the mold and take it out and add 6-7 layers. If you're planning on having the sub firing up you dont have to worry much about the glass layer because it will be against the floor of the cab and wont flex that much. If you're making it downfiring, you want it strong enough that you can stand on it without it flexing much.
2. Brand of resin and glass doesn't really matter. You can get the stuff they have at Home Depot (Bondo brand I think) and it works just as good as anything else. Just be careful with how much hardener you use.
3. I'd say get 3 gallons of resin, but it really depends on how many layers you end up using.
Fiberglassing really isn't that difficult. The prep work is the hardest part. Since you wont really have to worry about making it smooth and pretty it'll be super easy. Pick up a respirator from Home Depot or something if you don't all ready have one because the fumes will get you too high to work in no time, and wear long sleeves because peeling resin and glass off of your skin SUCKS.