FM Radio more staticy after installation
FM Radio more staticy after installation
Setup: Audiobahn - 4 channel + 2 channel Amps + 2 10" Ultra excursion subs (the box is in an L shape behind the drivers seat)
The fuse to my subs blew 4 months ago, though I noticed the clarity of my FM radio SO much more clearer with the Subs or Amp off. As soon as I replaced the fuse and the subs started working, static galore on every FM station.
I'm upgrading my system within 2 weeks and tearing everything apart and getting a Custom Box for 00-03 Models under the rear Extended cab seats. Any website recommendations for Sub Boxes?
I did some research and found possibly it's either the head unit isn't grounded properly or my subs are too close to my transmitter. Or my friend said it could be some of the special wiring being too close together. Any of these sound right?
The fuse to my subs blew 4 months ago, though I noticed the clarity of my FM radio SO much more clearer with the Subs or Amp off. As soon as I replaced the fuse and the subs started working, static galore on every FM station.
I'm upgrading my system within 2 weeks and tearing everything apart and getting a Custom Box for 00-03 Models under the rear Extended cab seats. Any website recommendations for Sub Boxes?
I did some research and found possibly it's either the head unit isn't grounded properly or my subs are too close to my transmitter. Or my friend said it could be some of the special wiring being too close together. Any of these sound right?
I dont know why amps would have an effect on FM reception unless your running power wire over your antenna wire. I would check your run of power wire and see if it crosses. I dunno if you can run your powerwire under the truck like the 05-08's.
No Static on playing CD's. Turned my subs off through my deck, same static. Sooooo looks like it's the Amp?
I'm buying a new amp. (My other friend hooked my current 2 channel D amp and wired it wrong, blew 1 of the channels. 1000W 2 channel amp with 2 subs on only 1 channel @ 4 ohms = .... 125RMS per sub when they're 900RMS subs
)
I'm upgrading stock speakers to (4) 5-1/4" Kicker Compenents. (5-1/4" Fits our 6x8 stock, and 6-1/2" doesn't correct?)
I'm ripping everything apart in the next 2 weeks when I get them in! However still unsure on which Sub amp to get...
Sub Amp Option 1 - http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Power+Ac...&skuId=9027206
Sub Amp Option 2 - http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Kicker+-...&skuId=9933383
Speakers - http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Kicker+-...&skuId=9925038
Why is Kicker that much more expensive? Better quality? But the Power Acoustik is 100db Signal to noise ratio compared to 95db on Kicker. I just want awesome power going to my subs, they've been heavily underpowered for 4 years. I want phenomenal sound quality as well, reason I love my 10" subs. Should I man up and get the Kickers?
I'm buying a new amp. (My other friend hooked my current 2 channel D amp and wired it wrong, blew 1 of the channels. 1000W 2 channel amp with 2 subs on only 1 channel @ 4 ohms = .... 125RMS per sub when they're 900RMS subs
)I'm upgrading stock speakers to (4) 5-1/4" Kicker Compenents. (5-1/4" Fits our 6x8 stock, and 6-1/2" doesn't correct?)
I'm ripping everything apart in the next 2 weeks when I get them in! However still unsure on which Sub amp to get...
Sub Amp Option 1 - http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Power+Ac...&skuId=9027206
Sub Amp Option 2 - http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Kicker+-...&skuId=9933383
Speakers - http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Kicker+-...&skuId=9925038
Why is Kicker that much more expensive? Better quality? But the Power Acoustik is 100db Signal to noise ratio compared to 95db on Kicker. I just want awesome power going to my subs, they've been heavily underpowered for 4 years. I want phenomenal sound quality as well, reason I love my 10" subs. Should I man up and get the Kickers?
Last edited by Sportside4x4; Jul 1, 2010 at 11:51 PM.
Pull the power connection at the sub amp and see if the static goes away. If it remains, the sub amp is not the problem.
Is the static a buzz, crackle, or hiss? Does it fluctuate with engine speed or stay constant?
Brad
Is the static a buzz, crackle, or hiss? Does it fluctuate with engine speed or stay constant?
Brad
Damn that was a quick reply Brad
!!
Going outside right now to check. The static just seems like.... lots of regular static. A VERY slight high pitched noise on the deck, barely noticeable with the rev of the engine, think I'm used to it, though I still hate it. And that damn static.
EDIT: Ok so it was 12:30AM, and the Dome Light wasn't enough to know what the heck I was doing. Tomorrow morning I'll give it a whack, which an Allen wrench and screwdriver I'll take it out of it's harness and see what powering it off does.
However I didn't see an OFF switch, lol, but a really black fat speaker wire cable, that said POWER I believe. No clue even on my own car audio system on what I'm doin. Next 2 weeks hopefully that'll change a bit.
However looks like the chirping Mocking Bird that's been awake the past 3 nights, won't.
Going outside right now to check. The static just seems like.... lots of regular static. A VERY slight high pitched noise on the deck, barely noticeable with the rev of the engine, think I'm used to it, though I still hate it. And that damn static.
EDIT: Ok so it was 12:30AM, and the Dome Light wasn't enough to know what the heck I was doing. Tomorrow morning I'll give it a whack, which an Allen wrench and screwdriver I'll take it out of it's harness and see what powering it off does.
However I didn't see an OFF switch, lol, but a really black fat speaker wire cable, that said POWER I believe. No clue even on my own car audio system on what I'm doin. Next 2 weeks hopefully that'll change a bit.
However looks like the chirping Mocking Bird that's been awake the past 3 nights, won't.
Last edited by Sportside4x4; Jul 2, 2010 at 12:40 AM.
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I wouldnt buy from BB unless you have no other options. Id look into Crutchfield or Sonixelectronics. Sub amps dont need to be too much special, they just go boom. Get a class D that has more power then you need within your budget. Class D will tax your power system less.
FYI
Red = Positive (12v)
Black = Neg (B-) << i think is how its abbreviated
REM = remote line from headunit/turn on source.
http://www.the12volt.com/ <<lots of good info
FYI
Red = Positive (12v)
Black = Neg (B-) << i think is how its abbreviated
REM = remote line from headunit/turn on source.
http://www.the12volt.com/ <<lots of good info


