OK, I will be doing the install myself. I have a friend that was a professional installer before geting into medical sales.

I bought a Pioneer 3100 HU and a ARC FD2200 370 Watt amp for highs.

I plan to purchase next:

Image Dynamic 6.5 components ran by ARC amp
Dynamat and Baffles for doors
Alpine Type S 5x7 for rear's ran by HU
Kicker 08zx400.1 2 Ohm for sub
Supercrew box single 10" but, I may build myself.
Image Dynamic 10" 4 ohm sub
2 amp kits
speaker wire
HU mounting bracket

My question is, am I missing something? Is the ID sub the best for the money or should I go with JL, etc. I am only conserned with SQ. I listen to mostly alternative and top 40 music.

 

I'm assuming the ID sub is a DVC to get you down to 2 Ohm. The only thing I would recommend in doing is getting larger amps for better headroom if you are interested in sound quality. You may think larger amps for louder sound which is true but helps alot for sq. You can simply turn down the amp sensitivity so the speakers and amps are happy.

For the ID 6.5's which take 100W rms, take them as high as 200W which matches their peak rms, so 200W x 2 @ 4Ohms is what you are looking for max. I would look anywhere from 125W x 2 to the 200W x 2 amp.

Same thing for the sub, but not as much needed as the front components. Actually your sub box probably will make a bigger difference in SQ than matcing your amp. By the way, I generally like ID's stuff better than JL on a comparable scale, but I wouldn't be hesitant to run some of their stuff either.

You have a decent grocery list, don't forget RCA's (could add lots of other install acc. but list can get long). Good to see you will be deadening your doors which in my mind as a must for any SQ or actually anything decent. Since you will be doing it yourself, you will need MDF anyways so making sub box shouldn't be that much out of your realm. You should be able to get away with a single dual amp kit. Power requirements are not that bad and 4 AWG is likely doable from your battery back to the amp board but would shoot for a 2AWG kit if possible.

 

You wont need 2 amp kits. Should be able to run 0/1/2 guage wire to a distribution block then a second set of rca's if your headunit is capable. Might have to pick up some extra wire to run from your block to amps depending on location and length of cable.

 

Forgot to mention SQ on a Budget. So the best amp I could find for the $ was the ARC fd2200, it will do 100W x 2 @ 4ohm.

The ID sub will do 50 - 400 rms. Kicker amp is rated 400 x 1 @ 2 ohms.

I want to try to spend no more than $170 on sub (ID sub is $159), $200 on components (ID comp. is $179), $250 on sub amp (Kicker amp is $219), and about $100 for wires, brackets, etc. Looking for best SQ with that budget.

 

Proper installation and speaker placement will greatly aid SQ. Get those tweeters out of the doors if possible. A-pillars would be nice. And try to seal up the big door holes as best as you can, it will help your midbass output. Oh and if you are after better SQ then forget rear speakers, just dont do them. Use that money elsewhere.

Also, kicker amp = not so great. For $250 you can get a cleaner 400 watts than Kicker if you look around.

 

OK, rear's are scratched. On the A-pillars, would the location be towards the bottom, mid, or top. Also is their a kit offered for mounting them or do I just cut a hole.

The supercrewsound guy suggested the Kicker amp, so that's why I said kicker. Can you give me some direction? What about JL. I found one for $290 with the same wattage.

 

Id take a JL amp over a kicker one any day.

We usually mount A-pillar tweets between 1/4th and 1/3rd of the way up from the bottom.

 

Since on a budget, you really have some nice components picked out except kicker for the sub. But, if it was me, the sub amp is probably where I would skimp on also. You really only listen to a small portion out of your subs as your front components so really you made a good choice saving money there (though there is alot of music in the <100Hz range). You will just have to realize that if you want to go loud, SQ may not be there. The installation as mSall stated will be critical for a good front stage SQ system. You could have the best components in the world and a bad install would still make them sound terrible.

But if you really want to make those ID subs sing like they are capable, a better amp would help.

Another thought is possibly get a 4 ch amp and bridge the outputs for your front stage. If the amp is large enough will allow you to go active in the future w/o having to upgrade if you want great sq.

 

Mount the tweeters toward the bottom, maybe 1/4th the way up. This helps to keep stage height around the dash level. Aim them on axis with the opposite side listener.

For good SQ you really want a lot of headroom and mainstream companies like Kicker often overate their products, or they aren't CEA rated. For the IDQ subwoofer, that amp could work as they are relatively efficient anyways. The IDQv2 is one of the best sounding drivers I've heard, you'll love it.

 

You ever pulled the spec sheet on a rockford amp? specifiicaly the 1000.1bd?

 

[QUOTE=mSaLL150;3981186]Proper installation and speaker placement will greatly aid SQ. Get those tweeters out of the doors if possible. A-pillars would be nice. And try to seal up the big door holes as best as you can, it will help your midbass output. Oh and if you are after better SQ then forget rear speakers, just dont do them. Use that money elsewhere.

Also, kicker amp = not so great. For $250 you can get a cleaner 400 watts than Kicker if you look around.[/QUOTE


I found the ARC FD 600.1 at a good price. Would this be a good bass amp?

 

Not every company is that way, and yes the older RF amps are actually quite nice and will do more than rated power.

Pop open some of the most recent mainstream crap, look at the parts used and tell me it will do rated and sound good doing it. Hell often times you can just look at the fuses on the amp and see the BS.

 

haha i know...fixed a install the other day that had 16 guage power wire on some flea market amp...made me LOL and think of this. Not only did the fuse holder melt, but the power wire at the amp melted and fused together with the remote and the ground haha.

The 1000 i installed the other day had a build sheet rated 1423watts at 1 ohm