JL Audio equipment

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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 08:19 PM
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JL Audio equipment

My old truck was broken in to and I had memphis subs and amp stolen out of it. My insurance company replaced them with 2 JL audio 10w3v2 subs and a 500.1v2 amp. I never put the stuff in to my old supercrew because I knew that I would be getting rid of it soon. Now I want to add this in to my newer supercrew. (2006) My question is are these version of the JL subs any good and will the amp push them and sound decent? What kind of air space will I need and should I lift the rear seat and go with a ported box? I really would prefer not to but will take suggestions. I know that the JL stuff is typically good but wanted to see about these subs and how well the subs will be matched with the amp.

Thanks for any help.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by secstang03
My old truck was broken in to and I had memphis subs and amp stolen out of it. My insurance company replaced them with 2 JL audio 10w3v2 subs and a 500.1v2 amp. I never put the stuff in to my old supercrew because I knew that I would be getting rid of it soon. Now I want to add this in to my newer supercrew. (2006) My question is are these version of the JL subs any good and will the amp push them and sound decent? What kind of air space will I need and should I lift the rear seat and go with a ported box? I really would prefer not to but will take suggestions. I know that the JL stuff is typically good but wanted to see about these subs and how well the subs will be matched with the amp.

Thanks for any help.
alright subs. amp is just fine. dont need a seat lift. not enough room to port them
 
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 12:40 PM
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I have always had really good luck with JL subs, even in my competition years. Have to go with a sealed box though, might look at the Fox Box or others that are mentioned a bunch of times in this forum.

Not bad for an insurance replacement. :-)
 
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 03:15 PM
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fox box fits those subs, will sound good
 
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 05:27 PM
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Where are you guys getting the "fox box"? I googled it with not much luck. To the post above, are you saying sub size and air space requirements, the box will work? Also, why do you recommend a fox box vs. any other sealed box?

Thanks
 

Last edited by secstang03; Sep 22, 2009 at 05:30 PM.
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 07:18 PM
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the fox box has the most air space out of the 10" under seat boxes, also has the most mounting depth to fit more subs. it is also finished nicely, looks factory..http://www.foxacoustics.com/ProductD...#37;2D210%2D04
 
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 08:28 PM
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OK, I will probably pick one up. Looks like $150 shipped. Seems kind of high for a box but I guess you get what you pay for.

Can anyone tell me what the difference is between the JL 10w3v3 and the JL 10w3v2 is?
 
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 08:49 PM
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10w3v2 is a dual voice coil. here are wiring options..http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=161
 
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 08:54 PM
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hmmm.. excuse my ignorance, but is that good?

Also, how do I decide the best way to wire it? I am probably going to take all the stuff to have it installed but want to buy the missing parts. Also any recommendations for a line out converter? Was thinking about the JL Clean Sweep until I saw the price. I also read that it isn't all that people say it is.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 09:16 PM
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dual voice coils are mainly for more wiring options. that is fine, i dont know about the clean sweep. ive always went to aftermarket hu. as far as whats good, it really isnt that complicated, so one or the other may not matter. here is the best way for your rig to wire them 2 DVC drivers with Voice Coils in Series / Parallel
Connecting the two voice coils of each driver in series (+ to -) and the drivers themselves in parallel (+ to +, etc.) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofers: 6 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 4 Ohms
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 2 Ohms
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 1.5 Ohms
just follow the diagram in the link above
 

Last edited by JJDH; Sep 22, 2009 at 09:23 PM.
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 09:19 PM
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I have always gone with a aftermarket HU as well but now that I got broken in to, I decided to stay with the stock HU for appearance. I will just use a line out converter as eventually add another amp for mid/high speakers when I am ready to replace them.

Any thoughts one wiring the subs?
 
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 09:24 PM
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dual voice coils are mainly for more wiring options. that is fine, i dont know about the clean sweep. ive always went to aftermarket hu. as far as whats good, it really isnt that complicated, so one or the other may not matter. here is the best way for your rig to wire them.................... 2 DVC drivers with Voice Coils in Series / Parallel
Connecting the two voice coils of each driver in series (+ to -) and the drivers themselves in parallel (+ to +, etc.) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofers: 6 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 4 Ohms
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 2 Ohms
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 1.5 Ohms
just follow the diagram in the link above
 
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 12:28 AM
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Had the JL W3V2 in a Sebring LXi back when they were new. Had them in a slot ported box with a 500.1. Subs were alright. 500.1 was killer, way better then the two MTXs I had before that. Overall, the JLs are great sounding subs and the amp never clipped once upon months and months of abuse.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by JJDH
dual voice coils are mainly for more wiring options. that is fine, i dont know about the clean sweep. ive always went to aftermarket hu. as far as whats good, it really isnt that complicated, so one or the other may not matter. here is the best way for your rig to wire them.................... 2 DVC drivers with Voice Coils in Series / Parallel
Connecting the two voice coils of each driver in series (+ to -) and the drivers themselves in parallel (+ to +, etc.) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofers: 6 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 4 Ohms
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 2 Ohms
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 1.5 Ohms
just follow the diagram in the link above
While this is correct, v2 is the second gen of the woofer. v3 is the third. Has nothing to do with voicecoil config.

CleanSweep is pretty sweet - great for high end cars where an aftermarket headunit is impossible and/or looks gaudy. For an F150, its a bit overkill, a decent aftermarket headunit would do just fine. And I believe the 500/1 doesn't care what impedence you presend it with under 4 ohms, it has a continuous output.

I could be wrong on that last part.
 

Last edited by OMF350; Sep 29, 2009 at 09:28 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 09:29 AM
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[QUOTE=KLRFORD;3904044]Had the JL W3V2 in a Sebring LXi back when they were new. Had them in a slot ported box with a 500.1. Subs were alright. 500.1 was killer, way better then the two MTXs I had before that. Overall, the JLs are great sounding subs and the amp never clipped once upon months and months of abuse.[/QUOTE]



That doesn't mean anything. Do you have an o-scope? It probably has if you've "abused" it for months and months.
 
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