My 2008 door speaker size is 6x8, but I am wondering if it is possible to use 6.5" speakers? I don't want to get crazy with cutting to fit, etc., just looking for a little better sound and can pickup some 6.5"'s pretty cheaply.

 

The speaker size is 5X7, but a 6X8 will fit as well. You'd need a speaker adaptor to go from the 5X7 to 6.5. A quick Google search returned this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/6x8-5x7-to-6-Spe...4.c0.m14.l1262

Depends on what you want to spend. Many other choices out there.

 

You can also make your own out of 1/4 masonite or similar to save money. Most install shops do that, makes for a nice clean install, no hassle.

 

I have an '07 SC with component 6 1/2" SPX-REF17 Alpine speakers in both the front and back doors. They required no mounting brackets at all. These speakers came with the ability to fit, right off the bat... That means it really depends which brand of 6 1/2" speakers you choose...

 

pioneer premier prs 720c.

 

While those Alpine or Pioneer 6.5"s do fit with an adapter, they are mounted right to the factory plastic door card. This is a bad idea because with more power there will be a lot of buzzing and rattling from the plastic, killing any kind of clean midbass output. You really want to mount them to the door frame for quality sound. See my gallery for an example.

 

Mine are mounted to the door frame and there is no buzzing or rattling and it has been about one year of use in the mountains off road and on...

 

Appreciate the feedback, thanks.
I ordered a pair of 6.5's, found some that are 94db, so should be okay with the stock head unit for now.
I will fab adapters if they don't fit right, I have some lexan left over from a job that will probably work.

 

jdruzik - take the speaker cover off and give us a pic.

You had to use some sort of adapter plate even if it came with the speaker. You can't fill a 5x7" hole with a 6.5" speaker with out air gaps. With those gaps so close to the speaker it's not going to sound as good as it should.

I wouldn't use masonite/hardboard for a home made adapter plate. I'd even skip on actual adapter plastic plates. Really the best thing to use is 3/4" MDF since it adds sound deadening weight that absorbs speaker vibration and reduces flexing in the door. To me there was a noticeable difference in the SQ.

Here's MSall's which looks near identical to mine:



Here's mine, I just painted the mdf hammer silver

 

looks good, nice job.

 

I've also added mdf baffles to my doors with 6.5" Boston Pro60SEs. It makes a big difference over the stock pedestals over plastic. I didn't hear any buzzing before either, but my mid-bass was lacking until I got them on a solid mount and deadened the doors.

 

So when you guys made the door mounts did you have to trim any of the inside of the door panel where the 6.5" speaker (clearance issues)? Also what is the total mounting depth is available with the 3/4" mdf added?

Trying to learn here. :o

 

My 7" mids are 3.2" deep and have a really wide magnet, they barely clear that little metal strip that is behind the speaker. Anything more than 3.4" is pushing it with the 3/4" MDF spacer.

And yes you have to hack away the plastic 5x7 area on the door card in order to make room for the MDF spacer and speaker so the door card can go back on flush. Unless you plan to put 8"s in the doors you wont have to trim the metal opening.

 

Ok, cool, thanks. Sounds like it would be no chore at all to do for the fronts.

How about the rears? What are you guys running there? (still learning)

 

Yea fronts are easy. For the rears I'm running polk MOMO's 6.5's components using just the woofer for midbass fill.

I'm thinking of swapping the rears out though for more suitable midbass woofers. mSall recommended some but that's off in another thread and I can't recall the brand right now.

Maybe he can recommend some shallow midbass drivers. I'm game for 8's if the depth can work.