Ok I gave up and now this is it
#1
Ok I gave up and now this is it
I have decided on this sub ,, I have not bought it yet , and I am sure that people will say get Kicker but I have fried so many Kicker subs in my lifetime that I dont want to take a chance..
And a Front View
Now I just have to decide on a box , I have decided I cant build a freakin box that sounds worth a crap.. so I have 2 choices in my price range
or this
And a Front View
Now I just have to decide on a box , I have decided I cant build a freakin box that sounds worth a crap.. so I have 2 choices in my price range
or this
#4
Crutchfield has them on sale for like 49.00 each regular price was 99.00
And they are DVC
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1081052...2w.html?tp=111
And they are DVC
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1081052...2w.html?tp=111
Last edited by FX4_2003; 08-16-2009 at 11:52 AM.
#5
#6
Specs on the Sub
•10" subwoofer with dual 4-ohm voice coils
•polypropylene cone with large-roll rubber surround
•innovative basket design minimizes depth
•progressive spider design for excellent cone control
•power range: 60-250 watts RMS (125 watts per voice coil)
•peak power handling: 1,000 watts
•frequency response: 25-400 Hz
•sensitivity: 91 dB
•top-mount depth: 4-9/16"
•sealed box volume: 0.75 cu. ft.
•ported box volume: 1.75 cu. ft.
•warranty: 1 year
Ok the boxes up top with a single 10 inch hole, Mounting depth of 5 1/4.. Its going to be real close ... Only thing is if you put 1 -10 inch hole you have 1.0 cubic ft of air space to deal with.. If you put 2 holes it's split over the 2 subs..
I have also been playing with some ideas with Sonotube and fiberglass resin..
I just cant decide ... Also thought about using the box I built first ... It has .89 cubic ft of air space and almost an almost 5 9/16 deep only problem is I would have to form it in a little to make it smaller..
The bulky looking box has a note at the bottom on the website that says please tell us what kind of sub you are going to be using.. and ask a bunch of questions .. so I am guessing it is built to somewhat spec... Oh well I may build my own box again...
•10" subwoofer with dual 4-ohm voice coils
•polypropylene cone with large-roll rubber surround
•innovative basket design minimizes depth
•progressive spider design for excellent cone control
•power range: 60-250 watts RMS (125 watts per voice coil)
•peak power handling: 1,000 watts
•frequency response: 25-400 Hz
•sensitivity: 91 dB
•top-mount depth: 4-9/16"
•sealed box volume: 0.75 cu. ft.
•ported box volume: 1.75 cu. ft.
•warranty: 1 year
Ok the boxes up top with a single 10 inch hole, Mounting depth of 5 1/4.. Its going to be real close ... Only thing is if you put 1 -10 inch hole you have 1.0 cubic ft of air space to deal with.. If you put 2 holes it's split over the 2 subs..
I have also been playing with some ideas with Sonotube and fiberglass resin..
I just cant decide ... Also thought about using the box I built first ... It has .89 cubic ft of air space and almost an almost 5 9/16 deep only problem is I would have to form it in a little to make it smaller..
The bulky looking box has a note at the bottom on the website that says please tell us what kind of sub you are going to be using.. and ask a bunch of questions .. so I am guessing it is built to somewhat spec... Oh well I may build my own box again...
#7
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#8
Well, I don't think I'd say that you should get a Kicker "instead of" Infinity.... but then I probably wouldn't recommend either one..... Not that either are 'bad'.
As far as building boxes go..... I guess it might be quite a bit trickier if you have to build some long, skinny, tweaky shaped thing to "squeeze" under a back seat.
But with "normal" boxes, they are really quite simple, and fun to build..... which is a good thing, as the sound of your subwoofer always has SOOOO much more to do with your enclosure, and so much less to do with the actual subwoofer itself.
Anyway, personally, if I were to buy a pre-built enclosure, I'd want to know the "exact" cubic inches, and port tuning frequency of that box > and that would be the info I used to determine what subwoofer I bought for it. < I'd want the sub to play "optimumly" in that amount of cubes..... and if it liked to be in an enclosure tuned higher or lower than what the factory enclosure was tuned at, I'd consider modifying the port (which might be pretty easy to do).
Peace,
Fish
As far as building boxes go..... I guess it might be quite a bit trickier if you have to build some long, skinny, tweaky shaped thing to "squeeze" under a back seat.
But with "normal" boxes, they are really quite simple, and fun to build..... which is a good thing, as the sound of your subwoofer always has SOOOO much more to do with your enclosure, and so much less to do with the actual subwoofer itself.
Anyway, personally, if I were to buy a pre-built enclosure, I'd want to know the "exact" cubic inches, and port tuning frequency of that box > and that would be the info I used to determine what subwoofer I bought for it. < I'd want the sub to play "optimumly" in that amount of cubes..... and if it liked to be in an enclosure tuned higher or lower than what the factory enclosure was tuned at, I'd consider modifying the port (which might be pretty easy to do).
Peace,
Fish
#9
I called Sony about my 2 month old sub that blew and told them what happened they said ship it to them and that it would be repaired or replaced under warranty .. I have to pay for shipping one way and they will fix or replace it and send it back .. So I am sending it off...Still may not use it .. but it will make a good sub project for my projector cinema room.. I am really looking foward to building this sonotube sub enclosure .. It is going to take alot of work to get it just right but I will post pics as I go .. Oh how I hate working with fiberglass resin ...
Last edited by FX4_2003; 08-17-2009 at 05:38 PM.