ok so i have the 1997 extended cab which has the seats that flip foward to make a flat surface in the back...but i have been wantint to do a "seat lift" to create more room under the seat for a custom sub box. but i got in there today and was really looking at it and i am confused as to how i am going to do it. there is that one support that is between the small seat and big seat that would keep me from making a simple box straight across. and i want to have as much air room as possible. what have yall done for boxes in these trucks with this style of seat. also, i have noticed that when you fold the seats down, the seat kind of goes under the seat...which wouldnt allow me to put the box under there...i dont really need to have the seats fold down but i was going to take out the metal sheet that is in there so i can have the subs facing up and not have anything blocking them...and then when i have someone back there, i would put the seats back to normal. does this make sense to do it this way? i have minimal knowledge in stereo stuff. i know what area i need for the box and everything...i just need to find a way to make it.

and if at all possible i would like to be able to make a ported box under there? has anyone done this? i think i may be able to get enough space under there depending on how much of a lift i am able to do. but how complicated is it to make ports...its not just as simple as holes in the box is it? you have to make like "channels" inside the box to direct the air right?

or should i just stick to a sealed box because of my lack of knowledge? any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

 

Start by looking at a couple websites for a bit of a starting research. LMIWelding.com and supercrewsounds.com

 

has anyone gotten one of these kits before or done one them selves? i dont see how to lift the back part of the seatup...or do you leave it where it is? i think it would look funny in the back window if it was moved up. I have figured out how to solve my problem with the seats folding and hitting the box, but i still dont see how i can put a box that goes accross the whole width if there is that support piece in there. has anyone done this and built a box for it? if so could they post pictures up? or is there a write up on this that i am missing? Thanks for the help.

 

ok well i did my seat lift tonight...it was really easy and actually makes the seat more comfortable IMO. and i solved the problem with the middle brace by deleting it. i put a piece of angle iron across the back of the bottom of the seat that supports it great. i have pictures of how i did it and i will get them on here probably tomorrow.

but i have a question about the box that i will be building tomorrow. i have been doing some research and have found these specifications for the size of the box:

Sealed Box Volume: The sealed box sizes recommended by Kenwood range from 0.8 cu/ft (tight bass) to 1.75 cu/ft (deep bass). Within this range, the ideal size recommended by Kenwood is 1.25 cu/ft.

Vented Box Volume:The vented box sizes recommended by Kenwood range from 1.0 cu/ft (tight bass) to 2.0 cu/ft (deep bass). Within this range, the ideal size recommended by Kenwood is 1.5 cu/ft. One 3" diameter x 7" long port should be used with a 1.5 cu/ft enclosure.

as for the sealed box volume...it is pretty straight foward, but i think i might be able to fit a ported box in there with the seat lift now. I am going to measure tomorrow to see for sure but my question is, what does it mean when it says the port is 3" diameter x 7" long? is it a tube that is 3" diameter and 7" long? and where do i put this port? does it go anywhere in the box where it will fit?

this is my "attempt" at drawing on here on what im thinking...would this work? or does anyone have an actual drawing on what it should look like?
________________________________
_ -
____ _ _ -
- p - _ sub _ -
- o - _ _ -
- r - _ -
-_t_ -______ ____________________-

Thanks for yalls help.

 

well never mind about that...i guess it doesnt work on here it moved everything i had all the way to the left. i will see if i can draw it and up load it on here some how or something.

 

here we go...what do yall think about this set up? would it work and sound right?



what would i use to make the ports? just plastic tubing or is there something i need to buy specially?

 

So, you must have the Kenwood with the iridescent cone. KFC-W3011 or something close (its been a few years...). But I have built that box it sounds okay. But ya, 3" round port and 7" long. We used PVC cause we had it. It worked fine.

 

yep i do have a kenwood...your good if you can get that off of just the port design and air space. haha

ok well i think i am going to build it today...hopefully it will sound good. is where i am planning on putting it in the right spot or good spot for sound? and i guess where it says top view, it is really bottom view because i am going to face the subs down...is that the right way to do it? and when you say it sounds "okay" is there a better way to do it? or is this the best way to do it under the seat?

Thanks for yalls help.

 

well i built the box today and well...every project has its fair share of problems

but the box came out great and sounds great! sounds much better than the box i had before. one question i have is, right now it is sealed...and i like how it sounds but...should i port it? porting it gives it more of "booming" bass right? and i hear a little "bounce back" from the speakers..is this because they are facing the floor...would the ports fix this or is this sounds something i am going to have to get used to (it would also do this in the other box...while sitting on the back seat)? i have been told a port will fix this but i am not sure.

so now for the problem i have...i mis-measured by half an inch so now my seat needs to go up half an inch...so i have the fix but i didnt have the problem til the stores were closed tonight but i am going to just go get like an half inch spacer and stick it on there. i have enough threads on the bolt so that will be ok still. i will try to get some pictures up of it when it is all done. Thanks all of yalls help.

 

low e red...i just looked at your signature and i noticed it says "If ported, always tune to CRF 33Hz... aka the Golden Number"
what does this mean?

and should i port my box? i guess if anything, i can seal the holes back up if i dont like how it sounds...right?

 

Well, its one of those I know more than I should... CRF is weight dependent, but its more to help resonate certain things in a opposite sex... C***oral Resonant Frequency... 120 lb woman is 33hz.

Yes and no. You can do that but it would be best to rebuild the box for a ported application. And yes, I got that off of the numbers you gave me. I built that box a while back, it was one of the first I had built and I memorize numbers.

 

haha ok

the box i built is 1.5 cubic feet so it fits in the sealed and ported category...would it sound deeper with more booming bass if it was ported? i dont like how it sounds when i turn it up...idk how to explain it but it sounds like it is bouncing off the air in there or something. i have been told porting the box would fix this...is this true? thanks for your help.

 

Maybe dampening the inside hard surfaces?

 

Try it, couldnt hurt anything... And if you dont like it then its about 25$ more to rebuild.

 

yep and i have all the measurments figured out so it wouldnt take much time. I think i will do it when ever i have time...probably not til next weekend though.

how would you suggest i attach the port to the box? just like some apoxy?