Hey all,

I have a Alpine PDX.150-4 class D (4 x 150 watt RMS @ 2 or 4 ohm stable)
Would like to bridge it to 2 channels @ 300 watt RMS to my new Boston Pro60components which are 125 watt RMS @ 3 ohm.

See any problems with this? Too much power for these puppies????

What about bi-amping/bi-wire the pro60's (they support this). Any thoughts on this?

 

The Bridge isnt a good idea... You will fry your Pro60's. (You may still already... That PDX will actually push close to 175 - 180w per channel... The 4.100 does 132 per channel) And I know the PDX will not support the 3 ohm bridged. Odds would be PDX would go protection but its possible you would let the smoke out...

As for the biwire- nothing wrong with it. I really have never used it. I always felt that it was over kill unless you have something where its not enough power for your setup. Then you have 75w to your mid and 75 to your tweet... IDK Bartak1 and Kuruption what ya think?

 

Pretty much what he said.

As for biamping...its something you can try if you want, if not, no big deal. Gives you a little more flexibility IMO. If your HU isnt really made for running active setups, then your not going to get as much of an advantage, other than being able to control drivers individual loudness, and of course getting rid of that dirty passive x over, which also allows you do adjust the crossover to better suite YOU.

I really like active for the fact that you are getting the Xover out of the signal, and degrading it even more, and with a good Active HU, you can control each individal drivers level and timing, and even separate EQing for each driver, depending on how good your HU is. And even though people will say "That company designed the set to crossover at the perfect xover point for those drivers. so why change it" -BS. Being able to adjust xover points is a big big plus.

If you have an idea of what your doing its great, if your not real sure about some things, best just to stay away from it of you will be pulling your hair out.

Edit...so i just realized you meant biamping using the passive crossovers still, Doh. In that case you are still stuck with the factorys crossover points.

 

I agree tha alpine won't like the 3 ohm bridged. The pro60's will have no problem with the power of that amp even at 180per. If you are mounting the tweeters far away from the mids or even aimed more than them, you could benefit from biamping using the xovers. This would give you the ability to turn the tweets down if neccessary. Yes there is a switch in the xover for that but its fixed at each setting and the xover may be harder to get to than the amp gains. If you did decide to go to active xovers the wiring is basically done and you could go back to the xovers easily for a reference as you dialed them in.