I want to keep my factory head unit cause of my steering wheel controls. Is there any way i can hookup a amp to the factory wiring? or would putting in new speakers do the trick? The stock system in my lariat sucks.
thanks for your help.

 

you can use a line out converter to put an amp in and get signal.

just FYI, there are many aftermarket Head Units for which you can get a separate harness that allows you to use the steering wheel controls. A new head unit makes a huge difference.

 

I recently used a L.O.C. to keep my factory head unit in my truck and my car.
They both exceeded my expectations. There's a couple pics in my gallery.

This is the first time I've ever kept a factory unit. I've always ran an expensive aftermarket. Although this time I have yet to see a H.U. other than a $1,000+ DVD unit that doesn't screw up the lines of the dash. IMO
With the single exception of not having the higher watts to the speakers the sound is just as good from the unit. Degree in music and years of ear training being my qualifications for correct tone, tamber, and pitch.
Ford has given us a good head unit be it underpowered.

Many will disagree.

 

You can use two pigtail harness connectors and create a "T" harness to make everything "plug and play".

 

Thanks guys that help to know that i can keep my factory head unit.
But what is a L.O.C. Jolly Green? And how did you make/get that T connector Mach?

Thanks again for your help.

 

A LOC is a line out converter. It is what is pictured above. There are many different brands and configurations. The one pictured is made by PAC. I needed a four channel line output, that's why I used that one.
You may need or use something different. If you only adding an amp for a subwoofer you may only need a two channel one for example.

I made the "T" harness out of two Scosche brand connectors.
Part# FD23B and FD23RB. The main reason for the harness is because the 4 speakers are also amplified in my system. That's the extra connector in the picture, it feeds the factory harness the amped signal from the amp.

But if just adding a LOC for a sub amp, you may just tap off of the wires instead, no need for the "T".

 

I wish I'd known about a plug and play one. Would have saved me a lot of splicing.

Mine is spliced into the wires. It is a four channel even though I only needed two at this time. Went ahead and did all four for the future while I was at it. However when that happens I might be pulling mine out for one of thos PAC's.

Mine was a cheaper one but it working fine. Don't know how much that PAC one costs but mine was about $25. I'm sure it's also not as good as the PAC since you almost always get what you pay for. But us public school teachers are poor.

 

The PAC was nice because it provided a remote turn on lead as well. It's triggered by sensing the speaker output.
It cost $40 if I remember correctly, but a nice unit. Not entirely necessary but that's just me.