Question for ya.

I was reading this thread -
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...=298003&page=2

and would also like to invest in a supercrewsound.com box and ID10 or IDQ10 subwoofer for my 06 Supercab. I already have Infinity Reference speakers (60 watts rms - 180 watts peak - 2 ohms) in the front doors.

I would like to get the box with sub already loaded and an amplifier to power the sub and the front door speakers. The rear speakers will be stock run off the head unit. I understand that a 4 channel amp could be used - two channels for the front two speakers and bridge the other two for the subwoofer. Supercrewsound lists many amplifiers. I would like to just purchase everything through them to save time and I really like their boxes.

Any suggestions on an amplifier from their website which would work well with what I want to do?? I'm not looking to move the earth, just a decent sound but loud on occasion.

Thanks for helping newbs like myself.

 

Hey shoot me an E-mail we might can work something out. I have a supercrewsound. com single 10 box and an ID10 that I might be letting go soon. The box has played maybe 2 hrs and the sub is on it's way back from being tested at ID. It wasn't loud enough for me so I'm lookin at an icon from SSA 900 watts rms.
edit Email is waynej@net-change.com
Also you might want to look at cadence amps they have pretty good prices through the end of the month. Here's a link to them. http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductC...idCategory=125 I would say probally the txa3002 or the txa750d
I also have a pair of memphis 5X7's that I put in my rear doors that I'm selling also.
Thanks.

 

Hey TPC. Sorry for the long wait, it was a long weekend

Its hard to find a fairly good match since most of those amps that will run the sub well on the back channels puts out a fair amount of power at two ohm...more than I would want to throw at a pair of Infinities I think.

I think the best amp would probably be this Alpine.
http://www.supercrewsound.com/shop/detail/11/466.htm
I believe its the one that fits 'in the middle' be best, power wise.
It will give 100 watts to either side of your your door speakers, which is more than you need (set the gains with a volt meter the right way and dont get greedy on the volume ****, or just turn the gains on the two front channels down all the way), and it will still give decent power (200 watts) to the sub. Not pushing it to its potential, but it will get it going decently.

OR, if you can be VERY VERY carefull with the gain and volume ****, you could go with this amp if you wanted more power on teh sub channel. 325 watts to the sub, but 170 watts per side to the Infinities, which Im sure would toast them like nothing if your not real carefull.
http://www.supercrewsound.com/shop/detail/11/437.htm

Its to bad those Infinities arent 4 ohm. Its pretty much impossible to find an amp that will give good power to your sub without blowing the chit of your door speakers, or one that powers the door speakers well but has any decent power to run the sub.

Let me know what you think.

 

Thanks Bartak!!!

I only have about $50 in the Infinity's so I could always sell them. I would like to take advantage of the Kicker amp by going with components up front but I have an STX and I don't think the grills are open at the top like the XLT's. I guess I could always go with a better 3 way 6x8. Any suggestions? Do you think the ID10 or the IDQ10 would be better with the Kicker amp?

Thanks again for the help.

 

Im not sure what the door panels in the STX are like at all. You could still go with components and just mount the tweeter somewhere other then where the factory spot is.
I dont really keep up on coaxial speakers, but some brands I would look at are Polk, Alpine, Pioneer Rev, Boston Acoustics definatley...
You can always keep the Infinitys in with the gains all the way down and just run them till they die. If they dont die, then your lucky and wont have to buy something else. Personally I would sell them to someone before I killed them, then buy something better, and 4 ohm, unless they can take all that power.

Both the ID or the IDQ will work great off 325 watts.
Do you want a little more output, or a little better sound quality?

 

Probably the better sound quality which I believe they recommend the IDQ. But, the output would be nice and I could save a couple of bucks. I need to sit down and go through everything, but I got a basic plan anyways. I would need to figure out where to mount the amp since I have a Supercab and the box would be on one side and the jack is on the other. I'll have to take a look to see how much room is under the seats. Another issue I need to look at is water from melted snow getting to the sub box since it is downward firing. With the STX you get a rubber floor mat instead of carpet which is nice to clean up but not for catching water from moving around. I see the box has "feet" on it so that may help.

Man, I just need to pull the trigger on this - hello Mastercard!!!

Thanks Bartak.

 

If you want to save some money and have a little more outup, go for the ID then, it will still sound good. Better than a lot of setups youve heard, Im willing to bet.

Back wall of the cab is a great place. There are plenty of threads explaing how to do it, if I had another ext cab or screw thats where my amps would be. I had an amp on the wall of my old 99 ext cab with zero problems. Out of site and out of the way too.
Might want to look into that.

The water from the floor shouldnt be to big of a concern if you ask me, something to watch though, like you said.
If large amounts of it would happen to get on your box, well, that wouldnt be good. Water and MDF dont mix
I dont think you would ever be able to get a large enough amount of water, and get it to splash up on the box or sub to be worried about.

 

You don't really save alot by going with the ID over the IDQ b/c you HAVE to add the extra depth option. I would recomend that w/ either sub though.

 

Hey TrueBlue, thanks for the advice. I'm sorry for not responding to your earlier post with regards to the box you have. I guess I blew right past the post and didn't catch it. :o Thanks for the offer, but I'm still on the fence on what I am going to do. I am stopping at a local installer this weekend to see what he can do for me. He's a good friend and he keeps hassling me to stop by. I haven't really taken him seriously because he is quite expensive but very good. He says he has a "deal" for me. At this point, I'm spending so much time working on the house tryin to get things finished before hunting season that I may take him up on the offer.

Just to be clear on your last post - you would recommend the extra depth option on the ID sub even though it's not required??

TC

 

It's required on the ID but not the IDQ. I would recomend getting it b/c it would give you more options if you wanted to upgrade in the future.
No problem with missing the post. I am currently waiting on getting the sub back from ID. The person that helped me install it said that my wiring diagram was wrong and he wired it the way it should be. ( I believe he wired it for 8 ohms instead of 2 ohms). My diagram I had was the same as about 10 other websites that I looked at. Anyway I might be still selling it to get 2 10's instead of 1 who knows.