I am looking to get hold of one of these subs http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...roducts_id=335 and unless I manage to find box plans from somewhere, will most likely end up picking up one of these http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Gb6yExt...0&I=044CFFX001

My main question is, the Qlogic box is 0.65cf, but the ED sub is recommended for 0.5cf in a sealed enclosure to work properly. Is there anything I can do to the Qlogic box to reduce the internal volume? taking into account that I have no idea what 0.15cf of volume looks like and so no real idea what I could (safely) put inside the box.

I really need the box to work properly with the sub as will only be using 150RMS, so the install needs to be right. I would prefer to build my own box, but have no idea where to begin, but do not want to sacrifice sound for convenience by having a box that is 0.15cf bigger than recommended.

Thanks.

 

That sub and that box will work great together. That was the first sub and box I had before my need for more bass kicked in. I ran mine with only 190 watts and it sounded really good. Not bone rattling bass but, good solid low end with a kick. With 150 watts, you are just looking for some good low end punch anyway, right

 

Exactly, I just want a nice kick so that I don't feel like I am lacking anything in the sound (which I currently feel like I am!!)

 

Like Dconder said, thats a pretty nice match right there. Plus, when you factor in the .07 cu ft that sub takes up, you only have .08 of a difference between what you have, and what is recomended. You wont tell a difference between .5 cu ft and .58

 

I sure don't want to come off as a know-it-all, but I have a pretty simple visual for you. imagine a cardboard box that is perfectly square at 12"x12"x12". Now slice that box in ten equal portions. one and another half of one would equal .15 cubic feet. Does that help you get a picture of what .15 cu.ft. would look like? Maybe you already figured that out. Just tryin' to help.

 

There's nothing wrong with a sealed box being bigger. Unless, you are looking for the sweet creamy butterworth calculation. But, most manufacturer's recommendations are usually in the 8's anyway...so no worries. And, a bigger box means a more efficient sub so less power is needed (but you still need to find that happy medium).

Although, your .08 ft^3 difference wont even matter.

 

you can pretty easily make your own box for your truck, and set the CF right where it needs to be for whatever subs you want to order.

and .15cf is about a 2" square box. Shouldnt make a differnce.
-Patrick

 

Your making a big mistake on the sub. If the reason u r getting this sub is because fo the mounting depth you need to get the JL 10/w1. Its mounting depth is only 4 inches and it would be a 5 times better sub. It is rated at 150 watt RMS. I have 1 10 in my truck and it rocks. In my opinion JL makes the best subs by far. I would put my 10 up against any other 10 out there. There is a big craze on the JL 10/w3's or 6's but I have had both and the 10/w1 is much cleaner. They are also very under rated I currently have 456 RMS to the sub with no distortion or problems.

https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?num=12268

 

Are you kidding???? My 7" mids would probably out bass that W1 (being sarcastic).

Seriously though, I'm not knocking JL or their products...heck, I even like some of their stuff (W6v2, W7, Slash series amps, etc.), but know what your saying before you say it. I know ALOT of 10" subs that will destroy the W1!!!! Even own a few too.

 

Have any of these for sale???

 

I meant past tense...I've owned a few. Sorry.


You're good to go with that BM. BTW, did you get that other problem taken care of?

 

sure did, i went and forked over the money for an alpine 4 channel, now im about to order a 10" BM and an alpine MRD M605. I talked to Lucas at audiojunkies.com about some stuff man those guys are helpful.

 

Cool.

 

Apparently you do not know a whole lot about car stereo.brypink2
Senior Member I have been in the car audio buisness for 12 years. Like I said they are much cleaner subs. Of course you will get louder bass out of w3's w7's but not as clean. Also you will pay 3 times as much money for louder dirty bass. Also the w1's only require 150RMS per sub where the w'3 or 7's require 500RMS. Also most people, by the sounds including yourself, do not build there boxes to the exact amount of airspace, which is the whole thing. With every box I build I contact JL to make the box to adjust to the kind of music the customer listens to. The shape of the box also plays a major role. Also the W/1's have a mounting depth of 4.3 inches where the W7 is about 8. 10 times better subs for the money. I will put my subs up against any other 10 out there especially if the box was built from wood by an amature.

 

Pretty bold words...