Two subs at different levels?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 21, 2006 | 04:11 AM
  #16  
snappylips's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax, VA
Originally Posted by brypink2
I'm talking about the mids in your doors.
Now I feel like a horses rear asking this: You're talking about putting mids only in the doors, or components, or coax's?

Originally Posted by brypink2
Use a baffle around the cutout and seal it up as good as you can too. Put a piece deflex pad behind the speaker too.
Who makes decent baffles for the speaker cutouts? Is the Deflex supposed to be cut down and go inside the baffle, or on the inside of the outer panel behind the speaker? Who sells the Deflex panels?

Who sells the matting in bulk? Besides Dynamat, isn't there an alternative like some sort of butyl padding?

SL
 
Reply
Old Oct 21, 2006 | 04:22 AM
  #17  
brypink2's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,400
Likes: 0
From: Temecula, CA
Originally Posted by snappylips
Now I feel like a horses rear asking this: You're talking about putting mids only in the doors, or components, or coax's?



Who makes decent baffles for the speaker cutouts? Is the Deflex supposed to be cut down and go inside the baffle, or on the inside of the outer panel behind the speaker? Who sells the Deflex panels?

Who sells the matting in bulk? Besides Dynamat, isn't there an alternative like some sort of butyl padding?

SL
When I say "mids", I mean the mids that come in a component set. You have the mids and tweeters. Yes, only mids in the front...no mids in the rear. They are a part of your sound stage...and you want that up front.

You can buy round baffles on Ebay...look for 6.5 MDF baffles. Or, you can make them yourself.

The deflex pad goes on inside of the outer door skin, right behind the speaker. Parts express sells deflex pad.

For mat...I like Damplifier from Second Skin Audio. Reasonably priced for a quality product.
 
Reply
Old Oct 21, 2006 | 04:54 AM
  #18  
snappylips's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax, VA
Just got done reading the sound deadener showdown 2. Very interesting.

Thanks for all the input. Now I have to rethink my door speaker situation. Are the component tweets going up in the little sail by the top front of the door in the 03's--or is door panel mounting necessary--or is pillar mounting an option?

SL
 
Reply
Old Oct 21, 2006 | 08:32 AM
  #19  
styxnpicks's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,700
Likes: 0
From: my apartment
I can see where your coming from with using two 10's one for bass and one for midbass which would be great for midbass BUT you would loose ALOT of low end extension having only one little 10 doing 30hz duties. what you really want is 2 10's that can play from 30-100hz flat. then all you have to do is eq it right. or if your really want run 7-8" midbass up front in kicks. the more cone area you can get in the 30-50 range the better
 
Reply
Old Oct 21, 2006 | 10:08 AM
  #20  
Impact9's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,927
Likes: 0
From: Wichita KS
Originally Posted by brypink2
I'm talking about the mids in your doors. Good install, I mean (when it comes to your mids) is seal up the door, deaden the door skins like crazy. A layer or 2 of mat on the inside of the outer skin, a layer or 2 of mat on the inside of the inner skin and 2-3 layers on the outside of the inner skin.
Use MDF to seal up any big holes and more mat for the little ones. Use a baffle around the cutout and seal it up as good as you can too. Put a piece deflex pad behind the speaker too.

If you do this...you'll be surprised at what a pair of ordinary mids will sound like.
Hey Brypink, do you happen to have pics of your doors all done up? I covered my doors as best I could using dynamat extreme just leaving holes for the panel L brackets and the door handle. So it's as air tight as I can see it getting. Sounds pretty good on the mid bass too!

EDIT

I found them looks just like mine just without that big dynamat logo.
 
Reply
Old Oct 21, 2006 | 11:31 AM
  #21  
snappylips's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax, VA
Originally Posted by styxnpicks
I can see where your coming from with using two 10's one for bass and one for midbass which would be great for midbass BUT you would loose ALOT of low end extension having only one little 10 doing 30hz duties. what you really want is 2 10's that can play from 30-100hz flat. then all you have to do is eq it right. or if your really want run 7-8" midbass up front in kicks. the more cone area you can get in the 30-50 range the better
The whole reason for separating the under/over 50Hz is to have one available for the lower notes and one for the uppers. That way the subs aren't trying to push bass strings through at the same time as kick drum notes.

The only reason I plan on having anything below 50Hz amped up is just to have it there. I could realistically do without it, and stick to 50 and up frequencies, BUT, in the interest of not leaving any holes in the system, I will have one, maaaaaaybe two 10's hitting low. Some of this info has me contemplating pushing more power to the doors, and a little less to the subs.

I'm just not in it for the boom factor. Does nothing for me. I don't care for the set ups that have this crazy droning boooooooooooom booooooooooooom noise. I want loud BOOM. You know, quick extension, quick recovery. Just like an actual kick drum. You ever played the drums before? Go into a music shop, sit down at the kit and drop the pedal a few times. BOOM BOOM BOOM. Just like that, that's what I want.
 
Reply




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:39 AM.