It appears the GenIII have taller center consoles. My truck arrives end of May.

So, for those who do have a GenIII do you think there is room for a subwoofer?

 

I was wondering the same thing. Damn, I had the truck for a couple of months until I realized it had a removable tray in it. I measured it from side to side and it appears only an 8-inch sub will fit unless you ****ed it at an angle. Also, the walls are not square and it would be difficult to get a good seal. However, if someone has done this, I would love to see their setup.

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2001 Supercrew Loaded
Oxford White
Lightning Front End and Wheels
Supercharger to come!!

 

JL Audio Makes stealth boxes which are basically a whole new console but uses the lid of of your existing.

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www.f150world.com/HouScrew
Truck Specifications: 2001 Ford F150 4X4 Lariat SuperCrew (Gen.I) Amazon Green w/Harvest Gold Trim, 5.4L V-8, HD Tow Package, Bed Extender, Moon roof, Captains Chairs(front only), full leather interior as well as standard features in Lariat package.

List of current modifications so far: Stagecoach bug guard,
Billit Grill,
Westin chrome nerf bars, front windows tinted, wood grain kit, AudioVox 6.5" flipdown TV and VCP(DVD soon to come), Sony M610 flipdown head unit, Code SureStart Remote Start and Alarm system.

Waiting to be installed: Sony 10 disc changer, AudioBahn 5 1/4 component system front and rear, 3 AudioBahn 8" subs, 2 AudioBahn Amps

Future Modifications: AirForce One FIPK, Chip enhancement(don't know which one yet), spray in bed liner, bed cover, dual exhaust sytem

 

Hey Lightningcrew,
I talked to a guy at Hi Fi Buys at Gwinnett. He told me they could build a box for inside the panel, behind the back seat. He said he could put an 8 in that compartment. I'm thinking about letting them do it although I'm sure they're going to want too much, but I don't want to lose the console or any other room in the truck..

 

BigIke,
Let me know what they price it out at. Also, if you get it done, post some pics!!

------------------
2001 Supercrew Loaded
Oxford White
Lightning Front End and Wheels
Supercharger to come!!

 

Hello, its been awhile since ive posted to this board because I have been working on this very subject myself. The answer is YES with a little time and a whole lot of patience you can build a box that holds one 8 and fits in the center console very nicely. Email me at Xmantdf@hotmail.com and ill give you the details and specs for the box and, if interested, ill throw in some pics also. Xman

 

xman;
How about posting pics and info so we can all appreciate (and learn from) your work. Sounds like many F-150 enthusiasts would like to duplicate your installation ....

Here's my subwoofer in a expy center console installed in my supercrew ...





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2001 F-150 Super Crew Lariat 4x4; 5.4 engine; Chestnut w/ gold trim; Captain's Chairs; Ford/ Duraliner bed insert; Access Roll-up bed cover; Six disc CD changer in '98/'99 Expedition center console; Fosgate FNP1614 component speakers (front); Pioneer TS-A6855 speakers (rear); 8 inch MTX subwoofer in custom built, center console, sealed enclosure; Zapco AG150 amplifier; DRL daytime running lights with Fog Lights (Mod)available at all times;Bel 980 Radar detector; Moon roof; Bed extender; Class 3 trailer hitch; Factory splash guards (front & rear).



[This message has been edited by FedExPilot (edited 06-05-2001).]

 

Hi FedExPilot and thanks for the message, I have been following your posts myself for awhile here and have done your foglamp trick myself. I would like to say thanks and keep please keep those tips coming. As far as my box for the Gen 3 console goes, im in the process of writing as complete of a set of instructions (with pics) as possible, due to my schedule I hope to have it all posted here by Sunday at the latest. Its taking awhile because the actual install is rather complicated and I want to be as informative as possible hope you all understand. Cya soon, Xman

 

Hi all, in response to FedExPilots message and the email response I have gotten to my message here goes......and before I get started I would like to apologize for the long post but want to make this as informative as possible for all of you. My vehicle is a 2001 Supercrew , my complete system specs are as follows: AM/FM Premium cassette deck from a 2000 EB Expedition (this headunit features DSP and has a seperate line level non fading sub out), 6-disc changer, Mach soundsystem front speakers from a 2000 EB Expedition (these are true components with silk tweeters and a 4 inch mid, they bolt right in, and sound pretty darn good to boot), Kicker Solo Baric 8" with dual 4ohm voice coils (the new square sub from Kicker)in the center console of course, Kicker ZR240 amplifier with RGX remote gain control. Ok with all that out of the way onto the good stuff. 1st of all for those of you that have SuperCrew with a cd changer in your console you will have to relocate it to behind your rear passenger seat, the harness will reach but the passenger front seat needs to be removed to accomplish this, Ford locates the changer in the same spot in SuperCrews with a bench seat. For those of you with an extended cab you will have to come up with a place to put the changer, most likely just under the rear seat somewhere. 1st of all remove the center console from the vehicle, there are two 18mm nuts under the cupholders and two more inside the console under the mat. The console is actually 2 pieces, an inner and an outer shell, remove the outer shell by removing the 7mm screws on the outer sides (2 on each side) one inside the cupholder area, one inside the lid latch area and another behind the lid mounting plate (remove the lid now). The rear panel of the shell clips on. Now you will have the complete inner shell exposed to you. The inner shell should now be divided into two pieces (there are at least 12 7mm screws that hold it together). The only way that you can fit the box inside of the inner shell is to divide it and then put the box in and put it back together. It also helps when cutting out the bottom of the shell to have it in 2 pieces. (lots of pics follow). The box itself was constructed of 3/4" MDF and has a final internal volume of .41 cuft. airspace available. The dimensions for the box are 10.75"Hieght 9"wide 11.75"length. The cuts you need to make are as follows for the top and bottom you need 2 pieces 11.75" long and 9" wide. For the sides you need 2 pieces 11.75" long and 9.25" wide. For the front and back you need 2 pieces 9.25"long and 7.5" wide. Now construct the box, assemble the sides and front and back together with the front and back sections fitted inside of the side pieces, this gives you an outer dimension of 11.75" long and 9" wide. Now attach the bottom section. By the way, I used a high quality wood glue on all seams and then sealed along the inside seams with silicone as recommended in the Subs instruction manual. Also, make absolutely sure that you drill pilot holes for the screws or else the MDF will split. I used 1 and 1/4 "drywall screws for assembly of the box. Now, with that done, move onto the top of the box (which is actually the bottom when its in the truck) This is the panel that the sub mounts to. Measure 3/4" from the outside front and side edges and put a mark, now take your template that came with the sub and postion it so that it touches these marks. Draw around the inside of the template and mark the screw holes to mount the subwoofer also. Cut out the hole for the subwoofer but be careful and go slowly, MDF is tough to cut with a jigsaw and your only working with 3/4" of wood on 3 sides. Complete the box by installing the top panel, make sure you dont put any screws where you marked the screw holes to mount the sub earlier. I let my box sit for a couple of days to make sure everything was good and dry. Now is a good time to drill a small hole in the front panel of the box to run your wiring through (you can seal up this hole with silicone after the sub is installed. Using the box for reference I split the console shell into 2 pieces and placed the box into one half, this allowed me to mark where I needed to cut the bottom of the shell out, I then proceeded to cut the shell out slowly little by little constantly checking the fit of the box against the hole I was cutting out. Intentionally over compensating the hole size so that the box would move more freely and allow me to position it where needed ( I filled the gaps later with black RTV silicon-see pics). THIS IS IMPORTANT--you will have to remove the cd changer mounting tab that protrudes the furthest into the inside console area or else the box will not ever fit correctly. This is also a good time to remove a bit of plastic stock from the rear bolt mount surface ( the surface that holds the console down inside the truck) Remove enough material so that you will be able to get the nut onto the stud in the floor from the outside rear of the console, when you reassemble the outer shell to the inner shell you will not be putting on the rear clip on panel until youve completed bolting the console to the floor. Now, I wired the sub ( I wired mine to present the amplifier with a 2ohm mono load but make sure you check the specs of the amp your using 1st to make sure it can handle such a load) and pulled the wire through the hole in the front panel as I was lowering the sub into position. With the sub mounted and the wire ran out of the box, proceed to placing the sub box into one half of the shell, position it accordingly (my measurements are exact and the fit is relatively tight. The front of the box should actually sit down outside of the hole in the shell while the rear should be inside of the shell and over the bolt down area of the shell. Now place the other half of the shell over the box, line up the screw holes and attach the two halves together with the sub box inside. The box is going to move around a bit at this point. Try to postion the assembly onto a surface with the sub facing down. ( I found that sawhorses with a couple 2x4 studs works well) use a piece of MDF to run across the 2X4's to support the front of the sub box so that it doesnt fall through the bottom of the shell. Now, this is the part where we tie it all together nicely, cut a strip of MDF 9" long and 2" wide. looking at the box from the top of the console tap this block into the gap at the rear of the box, this will drop the front of the box down slightly and "tighten" the whole thing up a bit. Now, using several screws I secured the box to the shell by screwing from the outside of the shell into the box. At this point the box should be completely secured into the shell and should not move at all. Now all that is left is to seal up gaps that are between the sub box and the inner shell with some black RTV and tape over all existing holes in the outside of the shell (see pics). I decided to get a bit fancy with my install and covered the top of the sub box (the part you see when you open the console lid) with fabric. All you need for this is a 12" square piece of fabric a small screwdriver, and some spray glue. I trimmed the fabric to fit about a quarter inch large all the way around, sprayed the backside of the fabric with glue, postioned it on the box surface and the gently pushed the carpet down around the box edges with the small screwdriver. After youve let the assembly dry for a couple days you can attach the outer shell back onto the inner shell the same way you removed it, make sure not to reattach the rear panel of the outer shell yet. You will need to raise the entire console assembly off of the floor of the truck approximately 3/4" front and rear, this is easily accomplised by placing washers over the studs in the floorboard before putting the console back into the truck. I removed the carpet between the front and rear studs in my truck also before installing the console, I wanted the sub to fire into metal and not carpet to get the maximum from the install (if you do this be carefull when cutting the carpet, there is a harness that runs near the rear studs). Also, before I reinstalled the console I ran my RCA's for the amp and the sub speaker wire to the rear of the vehicle through this area cuz it was just easy with the console and the passenger seat out of the truck. When installing the console you will place the entire assembly on top of the washers that you placed onto the studs earlier, you may have to play with the spacing to get it right front and back, the front bolts are easily accessible, the rears have to be accessed through the cut-outs you made earlier in the inner shell it is kind of tricky to get the nut started in such a small area but it can be done. Oh, and you will absolutely need an open end wrench to tighten the nuts down. Then clip in the rear outer shell and your done. Thats it, like I said in a previous posting all it takes is time and alot of patience and planning. Bet your all wondering how it sounds? I have to say that I went into the whole thing hoping that the marketing for the square Solos wasnt just a bunch of hype and that the 8 would sound like a round 10. Because thats what I really wanted. Well, I was wrong! The 8 sounds like a round 12 with 450 watts pushing it, its absolutely incredible, the detail and depth of the lowend is absolutely amazing, I primarily listen to Rock and Jazz (or variations thereof) and im not a "boomer" by any means. But, this combination will rattle your eyeballs when set up correctly. Basically what I am saying is that if you can afford the square solo by al l means get one, if not Im sure the box can be built using a round 8, If you do either one, please post the results here or mail me at xmantdf@hotmail.com Id love to see it.

If anyone has any further questions please post them here or mail me at the above address.

Take care all, and eventually Ill get some pics posted of my truck........LOL

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...560&p=49952400
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...560&p=49952403
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...560&p=49952386
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...560&p=49952397
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...560&p=49952392
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...560&p=49952383
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...560&p=49952377
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...560&p=49952370
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...560&p=49952369
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...560&p=49952389

 

XMAN;
You ARE the MAN !! Wow, what a nice job. Very professional ... and I bet it sounds like a million bucks. Great pictures too ! I know how tough it can be to document a job while you're emmersed in getting it done.
Once again, thanks for the post. BTW, the company here in Memphis that installed my amp was VERY interested in the F-150 subwoofer install, until I told them I had used an Expy console. I suspect your setup would be very appealing to much of the F-150 community. Thanks again....

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2001 F-150 Super Crew Lariat 4x4; 5.4 engine; Chestnut w/ gold trim; Captain's Chairs; Ford/ Duraliner bed insert; Access Roll-up bed cover; Six disc CD changer in '98/'99 Expedition center console; Fosgate FNP1614 component speakers (front); Pioneer TS-A6855 speakers (rear); 8 inch MTX subwoofer in custom built, center console, sealed enclosure; Zapco AG150 amplifier; DRL daytime running lights with Fog Lights (Mod)available at all times;Bel 980 Radar detector; Moon roof; Bed extender; Class 3 trailer hitch; Factory splash guards (front & rear).

 

Good job xman!!! Can't wait to start this!!!

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2001 Supercrew Loaded
Oxford White
Lightning Front End and Wheels
Supercharger to come!!

 

XMAN and I have been communicating on this project recently. I too have contemplated this install. Actually purchased an EXPY console, but opted to stay with SuperCrew console after all.

Question for the Audiofiles...what would be the harm in making a stand alone downfiring sub-box, approx .75 cubic feet. and dropping in into the center console with no cutting? I've messured the internal box and it will accomodate a 9x9x9 cube very easily. Since subs typically produce sound at 20-200 you "feel" this more than hear it right?

I've developed the prints, and now I'm thinking of having a local metal shop I do business with, make me a powdercoated aluminum tray to replace the current plastic one. Anyone else interested?

 

gents -

I had a JL 8W3-6 sealed into a custom enclosure in my rear console (Harley SuperCrews have rear consoles). Phil (at Gwinnett Hi-Fi Buys) did the stereo install and Randy (?) did the enclosure... great job on the enclosure. It ran around the same price as the JL Stealth Box.

Jeff
'01 Harley Supercrew

ps - don't let them install your alarm. What a mess!

 

Hi everyone, and thanks for the kind words, oh, and FedExPilot your absolutely correct when you say that its difficult to document the project when you immerse yourself into it. Its also very hard to put it into words correctly. If anyone has any questions please let me know ill do my best to help. On a sidenote to Dan the Man, you stated measurements of 9x9x9 if this is internal volume this would be equal to about .42 cuft of airspace. Also, I would personally be wary of using metal for the subwoofer enclosure unless its relatively thick. It sounds like you are planning on putting a box inside of a box (the inner console shell) you may want to rethink this design because by doing that I think that you are going to end up with a very, very bad vibration problem, i.e. the air being moved by the sub will have nowhere to escape to except for out from the sides of the lid. I completely understand the "not wanting to cut" issue you emailed me about, but, like I said, if you cut carefully you can easily put the console back to close to the original condition and cover the inside floor with the mat at the bottom of the console.

Xman

 

Thanks XMAN. May be I miss stated my intensions. First, I'm making a sub-box out of wood. It will be downfiring. The speaker will be kept off the floor by about a 1/2" to 1" with rubber feet. The metal tray was for taking the place of the current plastic tray, which as you know, would betoo deep with a sub-enclosure in the console.

So the question remaining is...can I put a box within a box? Sounds like that's what "bikestudga" did.