Anyone here have problems with Alpine Type s?
#1
01-16-2005, 06:11 PM
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Anyone here have problems with Alpine Type s?
Dudes,
I purchased (2) Type s 1042D and i already smoked one with a 200w amp.... so now im thinking i hooked them up wrong or something...
Can some one explain to me which of the posts im supposed to jump on the sub so i can run them in series/parallel? I also have a new e1200 JL amp to put in.
it looks like this (- + - +) i jumped out the middle ones (- +^- +)
Am i supposed to do the opposite? (- + -^+)
Thanx
I purchased (2) Type s 1042D and i already smoked one with a 200w amp.... so now im thinking i hooked them up wrong or something...
Can some one explain to me which of the posts im supposed to jump on the sub so i can run them in series/parallel? I also have a new e1200 JL amp to put in.
it looks like this (- + - +) i jumped out the middle ones (- +^- +)
Am i supposed to do the opposite? (- + -^+)
Thanx
#2
01-16-2005, 07:02 PM
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You have them wired in series which will add the values of the two coils together giving your amp a higher impedance load which will make it put out less power and not work as hard.
Series is Amp Positive(+) to Coil1 Positive(+), Coil1 Negative(-) to Coil2 Positive(+), Coil2 Negative(-) to Amp Negative
or + -^+ - as you put it.
Parallel is Amp Positive(+) to Coil1 and Coil2 Positive(+), Amp Negative(-) to Coil1 and Coil2 Negative(-)
If all your coils are the same impedance (ohm value) using a series you just add the coil values up to find your total load impedance. Using parallel you use (C1 X C2) divided by (C1 + C2) so if you had 2 4ohm coils you would end up with (4X4) / (4+4) = 2 (16 divided by 8 = 2).
Running lower impedance will cause your amp to put out more power but will also cause to it run much hotter and if you give it a load lower than it is meant to handle it will cook.
However you say you cooked a speaker so I can’t see why that would have happened unless your amp puts out more power than the speaker could handle.
Series is Amp Positive(+) to Coil1 Positive(+), Coil1 Negative(-) to Coil2 Positive(+), Coil2 Negative(-) to Amp Negative
or + -^+ - as you put it.
Parallel is Amp Positive(+) to Coil1 and Coil2 Positive(+), Amp Negative(-) to Coil1 and Coil2 Negative(-)
If all your coils are the same impedance (ohm value) using a series you just add the coil values up to find your total load impedance. Using parallel you use (C1 X C2) divided by (C1 + C2) so if you had 2 4ohm coils you would end up with (4X4) / (4+4) = 2 (16 divided by 8 = 2).
Running lower impedance will cause your amp to put out more power but will also cause to it run much hotter and if you give it a load lower than it is meant to handle it will cook.
However you say you cooked a speaker so I can’t see why that would have happened unless your amp puts out more power than the speaker could handle.
#3
01-16-2005, 07:18 PM
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#4
01-17-2005, 10:18 AM
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Ok so i did have it hooked up right then in parallel. I was wondering if i had the jumper wire wrong on the sub.
Now this so called clipping... the sub sounds like the aluminum shell of the sub is hitting something when ever the coil gets energized and it only does it when i turn it up loud. But at a low volume it sounds good. Could i be over drawing my 200W 2-Ohm amp? If it is clipping is it to late to fix the problem?
My other Question is On the 1042D which posts are for which coil... (-^+ - +) or (- + -^+)
Now this so called clipping... the sub sounds like the aluminum shell of the sub is hitting something when ever the coil gets energized and it only does it when i turn it up loud. But at a low volume it sounds good. Could i be over drawing my 200W 2-Ohm amp? If it is clipping is it to late to fix the problem?
My other Question is On the 1042D which posts are for which coil... (-^+ - +) or (- + -^+)
Last edited by rohirrim; 01-17-2005 at 10:24 AM.
#5
01-17-2005, 11:43 AM
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Originally posted by rohirrim
Ok so i did have it hooked up right then in parallel. I was wondering if i had the jumper wire wrong on the sub.
Now this so called clipping... the sub sounds like the aluminum shell of the sub is hitting something when ever the coil gets energized and it only does it when i turn it up loud. But at a low volume it sounds good. Could i be over drawing my 200W 2-Ohm amp? If it is clipping is it to late to fix the problem?
My other Question is On the 1042D which posts are for which coil... (-^+ - +) or (- + -^+)
Ok so i did have it hooked up right then in parallel. I was wondering if i had the jumper wire wrong on the sub.
Now this so called clipping... the sub sounds like the aluminum shell of the sub is hitting something when ever the coil gets energized and it only does it when i turn it up loud. But at a low volume it sounds good. Could i be over drawing my 200W 2-Ohm amp? If it is clipping is it to late to fix the problem?
My other Question is On the 1042D which posts are for which coil... (-^+ - +) or (- + -^+)
+ -^+ -
Then that is SERIES.
Parallel is both positives to the AMP + and both negatives to the AMP -.
If it sounds like the sub is physically hitting then it probably is. Clipping is where the sound cuts in and out due to the amp being overdriven and so it can no longer produce a clean steady signal to the speaker.
Google found this pretty fast for me:
Speakers are killed by 2 things (well 3 if you count idiots, weather, and time--actually, that's 6)
Heat & Overexcursion.
Heat kills speakers by simply melting it from the inside. A 1000W rms speaker (if accurately rated) will dissipate 1000W of heat all day long so long as it is moving. If you exceed that 1000W input power, the voice coils will begin to warp, and the glue may separate causing failure.
Overexcursion occurs when a speakers is amplified to move farther than it is mechanically capable of. For example, if 1000W rms moves a speaker 2 inches, and that speaker is designed to move a maximum of 1 inch, it will likely fail. Either the surround will separate, the voice coil will break, the speaker cone will separate from the spider, or ALL OF THE ABOVE. This is why both selecting an amplifier and a BOX design is crucial. Oversizing a box will allow the speaker to move farther than intended with rated power.
__________________________________________________
DISTORTION?
Distortion is output that does not match what was input to the amplifier. In Aerosmith's case, without distortion, they'd sound like Michael Bolton or Kenny G--pure sound, no frazzled speaker movements.
Speakers are passive products. They don't know the difference between intended signal and noise. How could they? Speakers basically move in one direction, then quickly back in the other.
__________________________________________________
CLIPPING?
Clipping occurs when an amplifier is requested (by pre amp signal) to produce more output voltage than it has the capability to do so.
EX: A RF 800.2 amp ~1000W @ 4 ohms mono.
What is the Max voltage that amplifier is capable of producing @ 4 ohms?
P = I V where P= power, I= current, V = Voltage
V = I R where R= resistance (impedance)
P= 1000W; R = 4 ohms
P = I * V; since V = IR
P = I^2 R
1000W = I^2 * 4
I^2 = 250
I = 15.81 amps
Since V = I*R
V = 15.81 * 4 = 63.25 volts
__________________________________________________
ENOUGH MATH!!!!!!!!
When the amplifier gets to 63.25 volts output (regardless of 4, 2 or 1 ohm output) that amplifier reaches its maximum voltage. At that point, any request for a higher voltage is just DENIED!!! The amplifier may continue to produce 63.25 volts at one or many frequencies, but that is the maximum output voltage it is capable of.
The amplifier isn't capable of DC output, just that the signal output reaches a maximum ceiling. Diagrams of square waves; whereas, the tops & bottoms of waves being clipped off are accurate for just that. They are not to be interpreted as indicative of amplifier frequency movement. The speaker and amplifier don't discontinue to move because the amp is clipped, only the output does not increase even when you turn up the volume. The strongest frequency is stopped at a maximum, while the other information continues to be amplified.
Keep in mind, any amplifier that is capable of putting out 1000W rms is capable of putting out 2000W max (fully clipped signal). In the above case, where your speaker is capable of handling 1000W rms, it won't survive 2000W continuously, and will melt should you give it 2000W.
The reason most stores and alleged gurus tell you that clipping kills speakers is because most people coincide speaker value and attaining the maximum heat or excursion capabilities of the speakers. That's what the Rane publication shows.
Heat & Overexcursion.
Heat kills speakers by simply melting it from the inside. A 1000W rms speaker (if accurately rated) will dissipate 1000W of heat all day long so long as it is moving. If you exceed that 1000W input power, the voice coils will begin to warp, and the glue may separate causing failure.
Overexcursion occurs when a speakers is amplified to move farther than it is mechanically capable of. For example, if 1000W rms moves a speaker 2 inches, and that speaker is designed to move a maximum of 1 inch, it will likely fail. Either the surround will separate, the voice coil will break, the speaker cone will separate from the spider, or ALL OF THE ABOVE. This is why both selecting an amplifier and a BOX design is crucial. Oversizing a box will allow the speaker to move farther than intended with rated power.
__________________________________________________
DISTORTION?
Distortion is output that does not match what was input to the amplifier. In Aerosmith's case, without distortion, they'd sound like Michael Bolton or Kenny G--pure sound, no frazzled speaker movements.
Speakers are passive products. They don't know the difference between intended signal and noise. How could they? Speakers basically move in one direction, then quickly back in the other.
__________________________________________________
CLIPPING?
Clipping occurs when an amplifier is requested (by pre amp signal) to produce more output voltage than it has the capability to do so.
EX: A RF 800.2 amp ~1000W @ 4 ohms mono.
What is the Max voltage that amplifier is capable of producing @ 4 ohms?
P = I V where P= power, I= current, V = Voltage
V = I R where R= resistance (impedance)
P= 1000W; R = 4 ohms
P = I * V; since V = IR
P = I^2 R
1000W = I^2 * 4
I^2 = 250
I = 15.81 amps
Since V = I*R
V = 15.81 * 4 = 63.25 volts
__________________________________________________
ENOUGH MATH!!!!!!!!
When the amplifier gets to 63.25 volts output (regardless of 4, 2 or 1 ohm output) that amplifier reaches its maximum voltage. At that point, any request for a higher voltage is just DENIED!!! The amplifier may continue to produce 63.25 volts at one or many frequencies, but that is the maximum output voltage it is capable of.
The amplifier isn't capable of DC output, just that the signal output reaches a maximum ceiling. Diagrams of square waves; whereas, the tops & bottoms of waves being clipped off are accurate for just that. They are not to be interpreted as indicative of amplifier frequency movement. The speaker and amplifier don't discontinue to move because the amp is clipped, only the output does not increase even when you turn up the volume. The strongest frequency is stopped at a maximum, while the other information continues to be amplified.
Keep in mind, any amplifier that is capable of putting out 1000W rms is capable of putting out 2000W max (fully clipped signal). In the above case, where your speaker is capable of handling 1000W rms, it won't survive 2000W continuously, and will melt should you give it 2000W.
The reason most stores and alleged gurus tell you that clipping kills speakers is because most people coincide speaker value and attaining the maximum heat or excursion capabilities of the speakers. That's what the Rane publication shows.
#6
01-18-2005, 01:40 PM
