How to match subs to system?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old May 14, 2004 | 07:25 AM
  #1  
Creig's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
How to match subs to system?

Hello all,

I picked up a really nice '99 150 extended cab O/R 4x4 about two weeks ago and am really liking it (my previous truck for 3 1/2 years was a rusty '86 Ranger 2wd w/225,000 miles). I'm still collecting components to upgrade the stereo system. So far I have:

Kenwood KDC-MP8017 CD/MP3 player
Sony XE-744 graphic EQ/Spectrum analyzer
Double ISO installation kit to fit both in stock location
Kenwood KAC-846 amplifier (50w RMS x 4) on its way
Scosche 4 gauge installation kit

And soon to be replacing all four door speakers with Infinity 6802cf. I'm more into having a "clean" sound than going for overall volume, although 50w/channel should provide more sound than I'll ever need.

My next upgrade/addition will be a 2 channel amp and subwoofer. Given the components I've already listed, what would be a good match? 100w/channel RMS x 2? Would 8s or 10s be better for classic rock? Also, is there a premade sub box that will fit under the rear seat that DOESN'T interfere with the seat folding down?

Any other comments/suggestion would be welcome as I'd like to get this right the first time.


Thanks!
 
Reply
Old May 14, 2004 | 09:02 AM
  #2  
Sticker Steve's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 639
Likes: 1
From: San Diego
Does your HU / amp have a X-over? If not i'd strongly suggest getting one. Audio Contol makes some really nice ones. The 2XS will cover your needs.

As far as matching subs to your system. I've always looked at this a little differently. I like to match the subs to the given airspace there is to work with. The 8" subs will give you a better match to the space you have to work with. Then I will look into the type of power they will handle and match them up to the amp. A pair of 150 RMS 8"s will take 300 RMS. Something like a set of RE 8;s would take 350 RMS. JL makes some really nice subs as well. Your better off sticking with a lesser grade line of a good manufacturer than buying a high end line of a Cheap brand.

I also strongly suggest looking into Class D amps for this application versus a 2 channel. They are going to hang in there better and give you more bang for your buck. I do believe all the custom box guys have the boxes your looking for. If you have any sort of woodworking tools and skills, a small box that fits your exact needs is only $26 away with a sheet of MDF

Back in the day I had an all Kenwood system since my sister worked there, I got a smoking deal on it. The Amps were extremly unstable till I put a Cap on them. If you get much distortion, you may want to look into that. I'm talking 15 years ago but who knows if they have changed or not.

Good luck
 
Reply
Old May 14, 2004 | 09:58 AM
  #3  
Dupuis's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 871
Likes: 0
From: Louisiana
For what you are going for, 2 8s would work out well. Rock shines with mine.
 
Reply
Old May 14, 2004 | 10:21 AM
  #4  
54regcab's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,929
Likes: 1
From: Oklahoma City
Components Set

I would go ahead and invest in a set of components speakers for the front.
You can get a "low end" set from a good manufacturer fro around $100 that will eat any coax for breakfast.
The reason is simple:
The highs can't make it past the door grills and get up to your ears when the tweeters are mounted behind the door grille.
Yes that means cutting the doors, but it's SO worth it !!
 
Reply
Old May 14, 2004 | 11:24 AM
  #5  
Shockwave's Avatar
Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
I'd try to fit 1 12" if you could. If you dont have the airspace, 10"s and 8"s would work nicely. JL also makes 6.5 inch thats geared as a dedicated sub. It would work as well if your very limited on space. You could also grab some 6.5 or 8" bass drivers from Seas, Scan Speak or Vifa
 
Reply
Old May 31, 2004 | 09:31 PM
  #6  
Creig's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Thanks for the replies. I may end up getting a set of components for the front (Infinity 6800cs) and using a pair of Infinity 6802cf 2-ways in the rear. Both have 92db sensitivity so they're matched in that respect. Power handling is also similiar. I have an older set of Infinity Reference series speakers in my Ranger project and liked them a lot so I'm sticking with Infinity.

I've also decided on going with a pair of 10" subs under the rear seat. I'm going to do a little research and try to make my own boxes that will still allow the rear seats to fold down. None of the premade boxes I've looked at allow this. I'm sure I"ll also have to do a 2" or 3" seat lift to gain enough clearance for the box. I'm going to try to use a good pair of 10" subs that can hit low frequencies yet have a sensitivity of around 92db. A lot of people seem to go for overall wattage without realizing that every 3db in sound = double the sound level.

My next question is this:

I now have a second amp and am trying to decide which to use to power the 6x8's and which to power the subs. One amp is a Kenwood KAC-846 running 50w x 4 RMS or 150w x 2 RMS, the other is a Kenwood KAC-745 running 40w x 4 RMS or 110w x 2.

Which would be the best configuration?
 
Reply
Old May 31, 2004 | 10:46 PM
  #7  
Shockwave's Avatar
Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
If your looking for the cleanest sound run as much power as you can and keep your gains down. I'd do the either of the bridged configs to get 100+ watts on 2 channels.
 
Reply

Trending Topics

Old May 31, 2004 | 11:48 PM
  #8  
Creig's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
That's what my plan is. But I'm unsure which config would be better "balanced":

A) 50w x 4 & 110w x 2
B) 40w x 4 & 150w x 2
 
Reply
Old Jun 1, 2004 | 07:04 AM
  #9  
Shockwave's Avatar
Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Oh I get it! didnt understand at first. I'd probably do B if it were me.
 
Reply




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:52 PM.