do I really NEED a sub? 18 vs. 50 Hz?
While your compnents may be able to go down to 50hz, it can't handle those lower frequencies with the quality that a sub can. If possible, cut the frequencies around 80 to 100 hz, and send all the lower freq to the sub.
Rick
Rick
Originally posted by ralderman
While your compnents may be able to go down to 50hz, it can't handle those lower frequencies with the quality that a sub can. If possible, cut the frequencies around 80 to 100 hz, and send all the lower freq to the sub.
Rick
While your compnents may be able to go down to 50hz, it can't handle those lower frequencies with the quality that a sub can. If possible, cut the frequencies around 80 to 100 hz, and send all the lower freq to the sub.
Rick
Maybe the other Chris can chime in here, but I do believe a good bit og SQ cars xover their front/main speakers fairly low (50-60 Hz range).
Haz,
What your saying is accurate if the person is using a 2 way setup with rear mounted subwoofers. They like to roll them off low to help pull the sub bass forward and appear to come more from the front. It is also the reason why most will cut-off a sub at 45-80hz. Even then there are very few running their rear mounted subs to 80hz, although you may even find some running a rear mounted sub even higher but it is rare. Now generally for those using a 3 way setup midbass/mid/tweet configuration the typically will start the midbass around 40-50hz and then stop it at anywhere from 100hz-300hz, I have seen them run the midbass up as far as about 380hz. In the case of the 3-way setup they typically will start the mid driver at anywhere from 100-400hz but most common is probably in the range of 180hz-250hz for starting curve.
Anyway, to me it really depends more upon the frequency curve of the driver your using. I typicallly look at the response curves of all my speakers combined and then do my best to dial them in so that they are not playing the same frequencies and cancelling each other out or causing major time correction problems. But this is a bit of drastic measures and usually only for the true stereo lovers because you first have to either build individual passive x-overs with different slopes or buy a very nice x-over that allows you to adjust not only x-over point but slope of roll off.
In short, yes many use low cut-offs for their midrange/midbass. However, just keep in mind that if you like to "crank it up" and do not pay very close attention to your speakers and how they sound you could possibly damage them.
What your saying is accurate if the person is using a 2 way setup with rear mounted subwoofers. They like to roll them off low to help pull the sub bass forward and appear to come more from the front. It is also the reason why most will cut-off a sub at 45-80hz. Even then there are very few running their rear mounted subs to 80hz, although you may even find some running a rear mounted sub even higher but it is rare. Now generally for those using a 3 way setup midbass/mid/tweet configuration the typically will start the midbass around 40-50hz and then stop it at anywhere from 100hz-300hz, I have seen them run the midbass up as far as about 380hz. In the case of the 3-way setup they typically will start the mid driver at anywhere from 100-400hz but most common is probably in the range of 180hz-250hz for starting curve.
Anyway, to me it really depends more upon the frequency curve of the driver your using. I typicallly look at the response curves of all my speakers combined and then do my best to dial them in so that they are not playing the same frequencies and cancelling each other out or causing major time correction problems. But this is a bit of drastic measures and usually only for the true stereo lovers because you first have to either build individual passive x-overs with different slopes or buy a very nice x-over that allows you to adjust not only x-over point but slope of roll off.
In short, yes many use low cut-offs for their midrange/midbass. However, just keep in mind that if you like to "crank it up" and do not pay very close attention to your speakers and how they sound you could possibly damage them.
I just thought I'd tell you about my system, just so you get an Idea of what's actually required to make a pickup cab sound good.
Truck: 91 F150 standard cab.
Radio Head: Boss cheapie with 4 speaker outs and RCA for front, back, and separate sub, as well as aux in. Power is 50 watts per channel into 4 Ohms.
Subs: dual 6 1/2" subs in a small box. Made by Audiovox. $50
Amp: Realistic 120 watt amp with a built in crossover. I have the crossover set at 60 Hz. The amp is driven by the high-level rear outputs.
Door Speakers: Jensen. Not sure of the model, but rated at 260 watts. 4 ohms. Frequency down to 45 Hz, running full range.
----
Side Note: More speakers just means more problems with such things as:
-Amp overheating
-Polarity and phase cancellation
-finding adequet mounting spots
-matching and balancing the entire system.
You can acheive a better sound by crossing two speakers over at 45-50Hz, and running a sub with the low pass set to 40 Hz. 40-45Hz will be filled by sympathetic vibrations.
Truck: 91 F150 standard cab.
Radio Head: Boss cheapie with 4 speaker outs and RCA for front, back, and separate sub, as well as aux in. Power is 50 watts per channel into 4 Ohms.
Subs: dual 6 1/2" subs in a small box. Made by Audiovox. $50
Amp: Realistic 120 watt amp with a built in crossover. I have the crossover set at 60 Hz. The amp is driven by the high-level rear outputs.
Door Speakers: Jensen. Not sure of the model, but rated at 260 watts. 4 ohms. Frequency down to 45 Hz, running full range.
----
Side Note: More speakers just means more problems with such things as:
-Amp overheating
-Polarity and phase cancellation
-finding adequet mounting spots
-matching and balancing the entire system.
You can acheive a better sound by crossing two speakers over at 45-50Hz, and running a sub with the low pass set to 40 Hz. 40-45Hz will be filled by sympathetic vibrations.


