I am looking for a dual sub box on Ebay, and I was wondering what I need for the Cubic feet. How much cubic feet should an average sub have?

12"? 10"?

 

THis question can not be answered with the information provided. Every sub is different, some are a like but not identical and some resemble no other sub out there, it just really depends. I may tell you the averge 10 takes about ½ cube of air space, while if you went with something like a w7 then you would need double that.

Just hard to say, don't buy a box with out knowing the sub you are going to put in it.

 

Not to mention you have to know if it will fit in your truck

 

Listen to Chris on that one. Find out what sub your going to use first and then decide on the enclosure. You spend $1,500 on the best sub in the world and it would sound like crap and perform pitifully in the wrong enclosure. Needless to say, the guy with the great enclosure and cheap sub would kick your butt in SQ and SPL and make you feel quite dumb at the same time.

As far as your question goes about an average size you will usually see many (not all mind you) subs fall into about the same air space requirements. I have listed them below by size for sealed application only but don't take them as gospel because as previously stated it really boils down to what sub you choose.

10" = usually .5-1.0 cu ft (1.0 usually optimum)
12" = usually .75-1.5 cu ft (1.5 optimum)
15" = usually 2.0-3.0 cu ft (2.5-3.0 optimum)

Again let me stress the point of knowing what the sub you select requires prior to building or buying an enclosure. Or if you buy the enclosure first then make sure you buy a sub that will work properly in that enclosure. Also do not forget to take into account that the sub itself will also have a displacement so factor it in and subtract from your boxes total airspace.

 

As others have pointed out, check specs and buy your sub first.... then buy the box. Typically, a sealed design requires less cf and a vented requires more cf.......

I use a 12W3 in a 1.25 cf box, vented to spec and had to raise my rear seat 4 inches to accomodate... Great low end and no problem until my son started growing and now bit##s about the head room in the rear!

 

Do you have any pictures of the lifted seat?

 

Haven't thought of taking pics...... I'll try to take some pics and post them to my gallery.......

 

Seet let me know when you do!

I'd love to see how the top of the seat looks, especially where the bottom meats the back and the seabelts. Also if you coudl get some pictures under it especially the bracket in the middle.

I know LMI has some pictures, but I would like to see some from actual users and some better picks.

 

If your box is sturdy enough you can just remove the middle bracket.

In any case Im also interesed in seeing the pics since Im contemplating lifting mine

 

I have thought about that however, the lift jit is DOT approved I would assume removing that piece would make it not DOT approved. I don't want to jepordize the safety of anyone who rides back there. Also, from the looks of it, I think I will be able to glass around it since it doesn't go all the way to the front of the seat like the stock bracket (at least I dont think it does).

 

Chris,

You have a valid point there with the DOT thing. Just take this as a worst case scenario. You and a few friends are riding along you and two passengers one in the front and one in the back. You get a blow out and smack the guard rail with all the authority of a big rig. Well, you and the front passenger are perfectly fine other than shaken up but your friend in the back somehow was killed because the seat came loose. Guess who is in trouble for negligence and fiddling with a factory seat which now no longer meets the DOT safety standards. The unfortunate thing is now you have a smashed truck, dead friend, and pissed off family thinking what if you didn't have that back seat modified would their son/daughter be alive still? Ok to make it worse they sue you. Now you are not only minus the truck and friend but you are also now looking at financial ruin for the remainder of your life.

Hmm, definitely not worth the risk if you ask me.

 

YES! Exactly my thoughts...

I could fabricate my own seat lift but the LIM is DOT approved so I think I will stick with that just to be on the safe side.

However, I may no even need it now...lol...see my other post. Maybe I should do something like 2 8w7s and 1 6.0 and sell the 10s and the other 6.0s and buy some home audio speakers....In fact thats not a bad idea at all.

 

I concur with NOT removing seat brackets and using the sub box as support... very risky.

I have the LMI brackets. Had them in the truck for about 4 years now and although they were a pain to install, they do a great job with NO complications to anything except my son who has to ride back there sometimes and he's about 6' tall...LOL



Pic inside rear door.... sub box pretty much fills under the seat but leave footroom.......



Center support LMI bracket. The brackets bolt in very securely. The center seat belt is unaffected......