Sub/Line Converter Using Factory HU
Sub/Line Converter Using Factory HU
Where do I get a line convertor for a 2002 F-150 Supercab V6. I have the factory HU, and a 6-disc CD changer that is behind the driver's seat under the rear single bench. I am wondering what a line convertor does? Will this make it easier and cleaner, where I don't have to rip out the dash. All I want to 2 do is get a small sub that will fit under the rear seat on the passenger's side, that will make my truck thump, but not rattle the truck apart. Any suggestions, please let me know.
Also, I already have a 12" sub and an amp. I am wondering if I still need a line converter for the following sub, so that I can keep the same sub and amp so that I can save some $$$$. I have a MTX Road Thunder 2100X, and it says that it would be running 200watts at 4 Ohms when I bridge it.
Also, I already have a 12" sub and an amp. I am wondering if I still need a line converter for the following sub, so that I can keep the same sub and amp so that I can save some $$$$. I have a MTX Road Thunder 2100X, and it says that it would be running 200watts at 4 Ohms when I bridge it.
Last edited by hennjj; Oct 21, 2003 at 11:34 PM.
I'm not exactly sure what you mean by line converter.....but if you want to add a bit of bass your existing in-dash stereo without a lot of mods and wiring, I can offer two suggestions:
1 - Use your existing rear speaker lines to drive a powered sub woofer. You can buy a powered sub that will accept speaker-level inputs from your exisiting speaker wires. These usually have a built-in low pass filter so that only the lows get to the subs. Bazooka is popular but hard to "hide" in truck cab. Infinity and Kenwood make some smaller units. Check out Crutchfield.com. You will have to run a fused power wire.
2 - Buy some quality 6" or 6x9" subs or low-range and put them in your rear doors. You will have to match these carefuly to your H/U power and add a simple low-pass filter to each.
Note that in both cases you lose your existing rear door speakers but you will not miss them.
Scott D
1 - Use your existing rear speaker lines to drive a powered sub woofer. You can buy a powered sub that will accept speaker-level inputs from your exisiting speaker wires. These usually have a built-in low pass filter so that only the lows get to the subs. Bazooka is popular but hard to "hide" in truck cab. Infinity and Kenwood make some smaller units. Check out Crutchfield.com. You will have to run a fused power wire.
2 - Buy some quality 6" or 6x9" subs or low-range and put them in your rear doors. You will have to match these carefuly to your H/U power and add a simple low-pass filter to each.
Note that in both cases you lose your existing rear door speakers but you will not miss them.
Scott D
Okay I guess that will work. The problem is that I am not audio smart. What I am trying to do is, use the existing factory HU, with cd changer. I already have an amp and 12" sub from another vehicle and am trying to use that to save some $. So my question is do I just buy a line convertor and take 2 wires from one of the rear speakers to the line convertor, then from my line convertor into my amp for a signal. If this is correct, then what do I need to run for my remote to turn the amp on and off. The amp I am trying to use is a MTX RT2100X, 2-channel 200w amp. Will this do or is there something else I can use so that I won't have to tear out the dash or HU. I am trying to keep my truck close to what it came out of the factory, but add alittle bass.
Yeah, the line level converter works good. You can get one from just about any car stereo shop. I have one in my expi going just what you want to do. I put mine in near the stereo. I happen to have an extra one sitting in the garage too. Never know when the misses might need a sub installed.
This site should help you out some.....
http://www.installdr.com/
You will need to splice into the speaker wires. I used butt connectors to reconnect everything. The reason I wet behind the radio is all the wires you need are right there. As far as the remote, I believe there is a wire on the HU that is specifically an amp remote. So a search on "remote wire", I know there is some info on the boards here somewhere. It was talked about not long ago.....wait... here it is...
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...ht=remote+wire
That thread lists all the wires. The above website has some nice pdf articles on how to remove the stock HU and stuff.
Hope this helps.

edit: btw I couldn't figure out the remote thing when I did mine, so I ran a wire from the fuse box connecting into the fuse for the radio. It's an ignition controlled setup, so whenever the car is on the amp is on. It works good, but I kinda wish I would've know there was a remote wire on the radio when I did it.
This site should help you out some.....
http://www.installdr.com/
You will need to splice into the speaker wires. I used butt connectors to reconnect everything. The reason I wet behind the radio is all the wires you need are right there. As far as the remote, I believe there is a wire on the HU that is specifically an amp remote. So a search on "remote wire", I know there is some info on the boards here somewhere. It was talked about not long ago.....wait... here it is...
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...ht=remote+wire
That thread lists all the wires. The above website has some nice pdf articles on how to remove the stock HU and stuff.
Hope this helps.

edit: btw I couldn't figure out the remote thing when I did mine, so I ran a wire from the fuse box connecting into the fuse for the radio. It's an ignition controlled setup, so whenever the car is on the amp is on. It works good, but I kinda wish I would've know there was a remote wire on the radio when I did it.
Last edited by ViperGrendal; Oct 23, 2003 at 10:10 PM.


