you arent mistaken for sure, the higher lines of DD subs are definitely nothing to play with (9500,9900 and even the old 9000 series), but i disagree that all of them are made for SPL. the 3500 series as well as the 2000 series can have excellent SQ while still kicking some major *** in the SPL department (much like the old K-series sub from Elemental). if you want pure SQ, i wouldnt touch any of them. my first choices would be IDMAX, JL W7 (i hate to say that because i HATE JL), Illusion Audio ND12 and the Adire Tempest/Shiva. there are many many more but those are my personal favorites. some are more cost-effective than others, but all great subs./

 

I agree with litspliff. Adires are awesome speakers and fairly
inexpensive.

 

Diamond audio has some new subs out that are awsome. Go w/ a 10 for the fit and they produce the better SQ. If you want it to sound good get an external cross over or EQ, and make sure you have a good quality amp. Make sure you run the RCAs on the driver side and the power wires on the passenger side to avoid road noise, and make sure the power wire is big enough for the amp.

 

Why do you have to run the RCA's on the driver side, and the power on the passenger? I dont get any road noise? and I did it the other way around.
And the reason I ran the 4ga. power on the driver side is because the hole in the firewall is on the driver side.

I dont think me doing this messed anythign up.

 

The main point is to run the signal wires on the oposite side of the power wires. If you run them next to each other you increase the chance for picking up noise/whine from the alternator and/or the other electrical components on the engine.

 

Just as long as there on opposite sides

rock on

 

I just recently installed the first stage to my audio system in my truck. I have a Blaupunkt austin headunit, 4x 2 way 6.5 Hart audio speakers and 2 10 inch Kove audio XS series subs, and a hart 1200 amp. I have the subs in seperate boxes for now under the back seat.

that is stage 1

Stage 2 which will come once i get a job:

hart 300 amp with 2 Kove audio tweeters,
new box similar to the one on www.subbox.net but modified to fit 2 10s and 2 12s, another hart 1200 amp and of course the oh so famous 4 inch seat lift to make room for the much larger box.

Kove makes competition stuff, they own Hart and they both have the same design team. Many of you may have not heard of Kove Audio... too bad for you they make technically the best subwoofer in the world...does Amaggedon series ring bell to anyone. Well if it doesn't check out www.koveaudio.com and check it out.

I also have a question for some people, i have noticed that in my truck i cant hear any bass outside the truck... but when i am inside i swear that my truck is going to explode. Does anyone else notice this? Is it because the f 150's are well insulated?

97' F-150 XLT 4.6l V8
3 Door Longbed
MODS: NONE (LOL)

Give me time hehe i just got my truck 3 weeks ago and i dont have a job

 

First off... if there was a SINGLE "BEST SUBWOOFER IN THE WORLD" which you claim to be the Kove Armageddon...why would anyone else even attempt to make a sub?

As far as the no bass outside the truck... try stepping away from the truck maybe 30 feet or more. Low frequency sound waves resonate over a distance. If you're standing right outside the truck's window, you probably won't hear much of the low end.. but if you step away from the truck you'll notice it gets quite a bit louder.

 

Actually Kicker held the record for world loudest car about a year or two back I want to say it was a 172.X but I don't rember for sure.

Also in Nate Munsons install its mostly the install and the enclose that wins it for him. He could through just about any driver in there and still pull extremely high numbers.

 

Says who? Sounds like a myth to me....


Believe it or not 12 and 15s can sound as 'tight' as 10s. However, this was not always the case 'back in the day.' The reason for this is companies used the same motors for every size sub within in that line (to save money I supposed), and it just came down to the fact that the 15s and 18 sometimes where to big to be pushed by a motor that was designed for a smaller sub. This day though, its not really the case much any more. In fact its fairly uncommon these days to find a line of subs that all use the exact same motor.

Also just a little something to let you in on...10 can go as low as 12s and 15s Something else to keep in mind...some SQ competitors use 18s in their cars.

As far as 10 requiring less spance than 12s depends on the sub I know many 12s that can be fit in smaller places than some 10s.

 

The sub does have certain 'charateristics' that makes it lean towards SPL, but its mostly in the box design. People going for SPL god big, ported, and tued high to get a big peak at a certain frequency.

 

The statement about 10s producing better SQ is to vague and generally NOT true.

If you get a 'good quality amp' you won't need external crossovers.

 

Please elaborate...

Damn I should just sell my 10w7s and go buy a Kove right now...

As many people have tired to make this claim before, but the fact remains that to date (and most liekly forever) no such sub will exist! As a sound quality person I want GREAT sound, but dont need it to be that loud....So say a 10w7 is the best sub woofer for me...For an SPL competitor it wouldn't be the best sub for him...its all in the eyes of the beholder.

On a more personal note ... The Amaggedon is NO where near the top of my list as far as 'best' subs.

 

Been away from the board and trying to catch up Hazard? LOL

I had an extended explanation to dispute the 10's hit "tighter" than 12's misconception.. but dang it if I couldn't find where I read that information.

 

Well, my Kicker 12" is by far the best sub in the world! It's mine, it works, and it's paid for...