will it be enough
Need some better quality sound. I have a new head unit, and want to run a 4 channel amp as well, one side bridged to a sub, and the other 2 channels to components in my front doors. I heard there is no sense in changing the rear door speakers ( ext. cab). It will run about 200 watts to one 10" sub will this provide enough lows, and at the same time not drown out my highs if I get components.
Also would I be better off with components or 3-way full range speakers powered by an amp?
And does anyone have any recomendations on either as to brand?
Thanks
Also would I be better off with components or 3-way full range speakers powered by an amp?
And does anyone have any recomendations on either as to brand?
Thanks
If you're just wanting to get a FULLER sound from your system.. I think that will be perfect. The single 10" will greatly improve your low end and adding a set of components to the front will be perfect. With a 200 watt 10" sub you will definitely not drawn out your high end with too much bass. I have about 275 watts RMS to my single 10" sub and just over 60 watts RMS to my Focal component set.. I'm very please with this. Its very balanced but also gets plenty loud enough for me to drive with the windows and not have a problem hearing the stereo.
What are you looking at as far as price range? And do you have any brands that you were looking at already?
What are you looking at as far as price range? And do you have any brands that you were looking at already?
It would be enough for me. But then I don't have permanent serious hearing loss and have no desire to shake the neighborhood
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The setup you describe should be enough to hurt your ears after a few songs cranked up, conversation in the truck would be impossible at full volume, the mirrors and your guts will shake on deep bass and bass drum hits, etc... My truck has an 8" with 160 watts does all the above (though a good 10" will hit much harder). If that's not enough for you, open up your wallet and spend to your heart's content!
If your new HU has a non-fading pre-amp out for the sub, it is easy to balance the volume of the sub with your speakers.
Get components for the front!
As to recommendations, you should provide some info about your budget.
. The setup you describe should be enough to hurt your ears after a few songs cranked up, conversation in the truck would be impossible at full volume, the mirrors and your guts will shake on deep bass and bass drum hits, etc... My truck has an 8" with 160 watts does all the above (though a good 10" will hit much harder). If that's not enough for you, open up your wallet and spend to your heart's content!
If your new HU has a non-fading pre-amp out for the sub, it is easy to balance the volume of the sub with your speakers.
Get components for the front!
As to recommendations, you should provide some info about your budget.
I agree with Tek, that should be enough if your looking to add fuller sound. You don't need the monster power to have a very good system. It all depends on your desire and how much your willing to part with. Throwing $$$ at audio gear does not gaurantee you a nice system. Research, listening demos and a plan will yield much better results than just throwing $$$$ and monster power into a system.
I think thats the system I am going to go with. I was thinking of a Hifonics Zues amp with max power of 440 watts split by 4 channels, and maybe an audiobahn 10' AW1000Q, but not sure on the sub, need some recommendations. As for the components I think I might go with the infinity 6x8's. Anyone got any advice on any other 6X8 components.
Thanks for the advice
Thanks for the advice
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In my 2001 F150 Supercab I have four 336 a/d/s component speakers mounted in the original speaker locations in my doors. Woofer part of components only. It is very important that the tweeters are mounted further up the door alongside the window facing you directly for better imaging. This is not quite so relevant for the midrange speaker and is irrelevant for the omnidirectional sound from a sub. The rear cab tweets are high up on the panel on each side of the rear window. Under the rear seat I have a mcintosh mc440m bridged front channels from 4@50 to 2@100 putting true 100 watts to the front 336's and the 5th and 6th channel 100 watts to each of the 10inch kicker solo barics in my downfire box. I hooked up a soundstream reference 405 bridged the 4channel to 2 to power the supercab door 336's and window tweets for rear fill. The sub woofer power portion of the soundstream remains unused till the day I can find room for a additional 15inch sub. Probably never! Not really required. The rear 336's definately add fill but were extravegent. The seperate external Crossovers for the A/d/s are monted on the backside of my subbox. Probably a stiffening cap coming next. I don't often really pound the system it's just more like the cab is somewhere beautiful to be on my way to work!!!! No kidding if you can afford it I wouldn't have it any other way. Oh and don't call I can hardly here a thing!!
As for a 6x8 recommendation I would completely scratch that. Go with some speaker brackets that allow you to fit a 5 1/4 speaker into the factory 6x8 opening. And as for speakers use the infinty kappa components, separate speakers will always give you better clarity. Or try the kicker resolution series, they can be a component set or be used as a coaxial. And as for subs and amps go, use a real nice 2 channel amp for your highs and use a nice class D mono for your sub. (best brands are Kicker, Jl audio, Hiphonics, MTX, and rockford.) If your lookin for thump and sound quality go with the JL 10W7. My friend has one of these and its in close tracks with my 3 12s, it lost by 3 dbs just by shear cone area. But like before your gunna need a separate amp to power this baby. I would recommend some good 800 or even 1000 watts of clean power to make this thing move, trust me these subs are WAY underrated. A good friend of mine was pushing 3000 Hiphonics watts (not Legacy “3000” watts) in to his 13W7 and it didn’t phase it. (Oh yeah he hit 154.7 db as well) Or for a little cheaper but not any means quieter althouh a little less sound quality is the 10 L7 solo-baric, this baby will dump bass but its power hungry as well. The audiobahn sub you’re looking at isn’t bad, but in the long run you might be a little disapointed
Good Luck on your system
Just my $.02
P.S. Its easier to go out and throw down the bucks now than it is to be cheap and then relize that you now have to go out and buy the good stuff (you’ll save in the long trust me)
Good Luck on your system
Just my $.02
P.S. Its easier to go out and throw down the bucks now than it is to be cheap and then relize that you now have to go out and buy the good stuff (you’ll save in the long trust me)
Last edited by WillyJ357; Jun 23, 2003 at 02:32 PM.
Considering that you are only looking to get better sound quality inside your vehicle.. I would say you SHOULD NOT drop a couple thousand bucks on a W7 and a 3000 watt amp and hit 154.7 db's to get better sound QUALITY.
The original plan of a single sub with about 200 watts and a decent component speaker set (externally amplified) will do wonders over the factory system. I can't guarantee that you'll be satisfied with this forever.. but you will certainly get an understanding of how much better the music sounds over the factory system. Most people end up changing their systems at some time or another, but this will be a GREAT starting point for you on building a SOUND QUALITY system.
Also, drop any ideas of getting a 6x8 speaker.. go with separates. A front 5.25" or even 6.5" component system should be perfect. I don't think 4 component systems with 4 tweeters is what you really need (not to knock pickeralninja any though).
And that's just my 2 cents.
Good luck.
The original plan of a single sub with about 200 watts and a decent component speaker set (externally amplified) will do wonders over the factory system. I can't guarantee that you'll be satisfied with this forever.. but you will certainly get an understanding of how much better the music sounds over the factory system. Most people end up changing their systems at some time or another, but this will be a GREAT starting point for you on building a SOUND QUALITY system.
Also, drop any ideas of getting a 6x8 speaker.. go with separates. A front 5.25" or even 6.5" component system should be perfect. I don't think 4 component systems with 4 tweeters is what you really need (not to knock pickeralninja any though).
And that's just my 2 cents.
Good luck.
Yes, an "oval" shaped speaker will distort more than a round speaker of an otherwise identical build quality. I don't think it's as bad as it once was, but it's an inherent flaw to some degree. The old 4x10 General Motors size was the WORST. Of course, there are differences within the same sizes as well. Not all 5 1/4" or all 6 1/2" are the same. This is not to say, however, that there aren't some great 5x7/6x8 models. The Alpine SPR's and the JL Audio XR's are very nice, as are others. But those I've heard personally.
One 10" sub in the PROPER SIZED enclosure will be enough for a decent sounding system. Especially for a truck. Hell, I have a 150 watt 8" RS series Bazooka bass tube in my reg cab. It hits very hard for one 8" woofer. Heck, when I had my windows tinted, the guys that did the tint work said that's the hardest hitting 8" they'd ever heard. And to beat it all, it not only hits hard, it's very articulate, low, and smooth sounding. Not muddy sounding like most people describe how bazooka's sound. I don't listen to alot of Rap, mostly alternative, and heavy metal. So I have no need for a BIGGER and BOOMIER sub. But a 10" should do alright with it if that's what you listen to. I say go for it. But be sure to use the proper sized enclosure and amp. Remember, a vented enclosure gives you more boom, and a sealed enclosure gives you harder hitting, tighter sounding bass.
neck 4752,
I have infinity reference 5x7's in my doors along with dynamat 10"x10" speaker sheets. Long story short, the sound is nice and crisp. They are only powered by a kenwood cd player with 22 watts of power, and they are awesome. But they'd problably sound better with a 90 watt amp. I think that's what the max rating is on those. But they will work with an aftermarket or stock system since the recommended power rating is 2-60 watt's RMS, and the max power rating is 180w max.
I have infinity reference 5x7's in my doors along with dynamat 10"x10" speaker sheets. Long story short, the sound is nice and crisp. They are only powered by a kenwood cd player with 22 watts of power, and they are awesome. But they'd problably sound better with a 90 watt amp. I think that's what the max rating is on those. But they will work with an aftermarket or stock system since the recommended power rating is 2-60 watt's RMS, and the max power rating is 180w max.


