2004-2008 Alternator Replacement w Pics
2004-2008 Alternator Replacement w Pics
Had to change out the alternator this weekend, so I thought I would snap some pics in the process. Dashlights were noticeably dim, and barely made it home before random dashlights started lighting up (abs, 4x4, etc). When I tried to restart, the battery was also drained. Hopefully this may help others if they haven't previously had to change out an alternator.
Tools used:
3/8in ratchet
10mm socket
10mm socket deep well
1/2in ratchet or breaker bar
channel locks
misc socket sizes for battery terminal & alternator ground wire
First, disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Remove the 10mm bolt (location highlighted) to remove the air duct to gain access to the alternator.

I also used channel locks to take off the radiator hose from the radiator to gain better access to the alternator. Used a bucket to catch any coolant overflow.
The belt tensioner accepts a 1/2in breaker bar or ratchet to create slack in the serpentine belt to unhook the belt from the alternator.

4 10mm bolts on the top alternator bracket need to be removed.

2 10mm bolts at the bottom of the alternator need to be removed. I had to use the deep well socket on the right side because the ratchet was butting up against the fan pulley.

Once the 6 mounting bolts have been removed the alternator just falls forward to expose the two connections, one with a clip the other with a nut (forgot the socket size).

The old and new alternators

After mounting the new alternator and serpentine belt.

Clamp the radiator hose back on, remount the air duct, connect negative terminal on battery.
It would be a good idea to put your battery on a charger before starting the truck. I used jumper cables and another car, but couldn't get the truck started until I took the battery into an auto parts store and had them charge it for me which was free (btw-battery was only 3 years old). If it was 5+ years old, I would've replaced the battery also. After I re-installed the battery, the truck fired right up, and no problems since.
Tools used:
3/8in ratchet
10mm socket
10mm socket deep well
1/2in ratchet or breaker bar
channel locks
misc socket sizes for battery terminal & alternator ground wire
First, disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Remove the 10mm bolt (location highlighted) to remove the air duct to gain access to the alternator.

I also used channel locks to take off the radiator hose from the radiator to gain better access to the alternator. Used a bucket to catch any coolant overflow.
The belt tensioner accepts a 1/2in breaker bar or ratchet to create slack in the serpentine belt to unhook the belt from the alternator.

4 10mm bolts on the top alternator bracket need to be removed.

2 10mm bolts at the bottom of the alternator need to be removed. I had to use the deep well socket on the right side because the ratchet was butting up against the fan pulley.

Once the 6 mounting bolts have been removed the alternator just falls forward to expose the two connections, one with a clip the other with a nut (forgot the socket size).

The old and new alternators

After mounting the new alternator and serpentine belt.

Clamp the radiator hose back on, remount the air duct, connect negative terminal on battery.
It would be a good idea to put your battery on a charger before starting the truck. I used jumper cables and another car, but couldn't get the truck started until I took the battery into an auto parts store and had them charge it for me which was free (btw-battery was only 3 years old). If it was 5+ years old, I would've replaced the battery also. After I re-installed the battery, the truck fired right up, and no problems since.
Last edited by BrazenC5; Feb 15, 2013 at 04:26 PM.
I had to do that in front of an Advance Autoparts store while on a road trip a couple years ago. LOL
You're right its not too hard on these trucks. I was back on my way in about an hour.
You're right its not too hard on these trucks. I was back on my way in about an hour.
Last edited by pethel; Feb 15, 2013 at 08:55 PM.
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I agree, I prefer OEM replacement, but given that my alternator was crapping out on a Saturday night, and I only had Sunday to work on it, I couldn't get my hands on an OEM same day.
Additionally, I only expect to keep this truck until the 2015 comes out...so the alternator just needs to last 2 more years...and if it craps inside those 2 years, it has a lifetime warranty.
Additionally, I only expect to keep this truck until the 2015 comes out...so the alternator just needs to last 2 more years...and if it craps inside those 2 years, it has a lifetime warranty.

Thanks for another helpful and nice writeup. I copied it and indexed it in the Articles and How To section. We really appreciate your contributions to the site.
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Jim
Jim
Do you mean brushes? I checked Autozone and OReilly's Auto online, and neither carried a full repair or brush kit for the 2004.
Great write up!! I just have a few questions. With the belt tensioner do you just use a ratchet on it to loosen up the tension on the belt to get it off the alternator then when you put the new alternator back on do the same? You don't have to loosen or tighten the belt any right? Sorry not too familiar with this stuff but would like to know so when and if mine goes I can do it myself. Last when can you get a oem alternator from just the ford or somewhere else? Thanks!!







