TRY THIS: Throttle Calibration for EFI engine.. It works!
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: NV.
"...but his attempts to save people from making fools out of themselves has been futile. Don't drink the Koolaid, all of those people who feel a difference when doing this are fools! FOOLS I tell you!
You've been warned."
Geez now you warn me.
I tried it. Maybe noticed a difference, maybe not. But I still have to make those other 2 payments of $39.95, so I think I got screwed.
You've been warned."
Geez now you warn me.
I tried it. Maybe noticed a difference, maybe not. But I still have to make those other 2 payments of $39.95, so I think I got screwed.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 4
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From: Ravenel, Charleston, SC
Kidding aside, I did try this. The accel pedal does feel a little different, although it still has a lag time of response, which has always been an irritation. Of course, no drive-by-computer throttle will instantly snap my neck like my old 73 Camaro used to back in the day.
Thanks for the warm welcome. I'm happy to be aboard, I have tons of questions. I'm hooked.
Thanks for the warm welcome. I'm happy to be aboard, I have tons of questions. I'm hooked.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 365
Likes: 0
From: NV.
Kidding aside, I did try this. The accel pedal does feel a little different, although it still has a lag time of response, which has always been an irritation. Of course, no drive-by-computer throttle will instantly snap my neck like my old 73 Camaro used to back in the day.
Thanks for the warm welcome. I'm happy to be aboard, I have tons of questions. I'm hooked.
Thanks for the warm welcome. I'm happy to be aboard, I have tons of questions. I'm hooked.
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 24
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A) I can't believe you're too scared of what you might find to even read a few paragraphs.
B) Your "modern drive-by-wire vehicle" is virtually identical in every significant way to my '83 Bronco. I even have an electronic throttle control, except mine's connected by a cable instead of a shaft, and is only used for cruise control. And that system on my truck is the basis (with only some failsafe changes) of the system you're describing as "modern". So don't think that your truck is built with ANY different technology than mine just because it's a few years newer. It still burns gas the same way mine does, and the computers were designed by the same think-tank. The parts are just slightly different shapes & the wiring is routed differently. The rest is so close it doesn't matter.
C) That diagram isn't specific to an '83 Bronco (but you wouldn't know because you didn't look). It doesn't even APPLY to most '83 Ford trucks because very few of them have had EFI engines retrofitted (like mine, which is why I collect newer information). It applies to ALL Ford EFIs before electronic throttles.
D) This thread isn't about drive-by-wire throttles. If you read the original post & several posts thereafter, you'll see MANY people claiming this procedure applies to all EFIs of all makes/models/years, including those with throttle cables. And that caption specifically addresses those claims.You mean you're the only self-righteous A-hole allowed to belittle other people? Because if you're referring to me, I haven't belittled anyone, or stooped to name-calling (except in quoting you). Nor have I told/suggested/ordered anyone NOT to do this procedure. I only laughed at some funny posts, and I'm still laughing...
So now that you've established that you'll argue FOR something that doesn't make sense JUST because it makes people feel better, I think we can all accurately assess your future advice in any thread. 
700hauler's credibility=>gone
A) You're confusing the APP & TPS. If you're talking about DBW, then this procedure has no effect on the TPS (which is integrated in the throttle actuator), and your diagram shows why - the TPS is separate from the APP, and the throttle doesn't move during this process, so it's not being adapted or calibrated.
B) The APP is also NOT being adapted or calibrated (as you mention further down in your post); certainly not 'manually' since this procedure claims to change the software adaptions. Pre~'87 TPSs were MANUALLY calibrated by loosening their screws & rotating them to achieve 0.5-1.0VDC at the throttle stop. But when Ford reprogrammed the EEC (as that caption describes), they also filled in the slots on the TPS so it couldn't be rotated. Since then, all throttle & idle adjustments are automatic & continuous (as your VECI label clearly states). So there's one more document (on each vehicle) proving this procedure is nonsense.
Here's another big flaw: if Ford programmed the PCM so this procedure worked, why wouldn't they do it at the factory? And if they did, why are you having to repeat it? Does it "wear off"? How long does that take? No mention in the original post how frequently it needs to be done to continue the "benefits". Every time you turn the key on? Once a week? A month? When the battery is replaced???
Well, I, for one, certainly am! 
His diagram proves bouncing the pedal has NO effect on the TPS, and his post states that the APP can't be calibrated without a scantool.
But just so you know:
The diagram posted by password is NOT the Ford system. The Ford APP1 has a negative slope (5-0V), and APP2 & 3 have positive (0-5VDC), and there are only 2 VREF inputs; Ford doesn't use a 6V reference. Also, the Ford TPS has 4 wires: VREF, SIGRET (ground), TP1 (negative slope), & TP2 (positive).
B) Your "modern drive-by-wire vehicle" is virtually identical in every significant way to my '83 Bronco. I even have an electronic throttle control, except mine's connected by a cable instead of a shaft, and is only used for cruise control. And that system on my truck is the basis (with only some failsafe changes) of the system you're describing as "modern". So don't think that your truck is built with ANY different technology than mine just because it's a few years newer. It still burns gas the same way mine does, and the computers were designed by the same think-tank. The parts are just slightly different shapes & the wiring is routed differently. The rest is so close it doesn't matter.
C) That diagram isn't specific to an '83 Bronco (but you wouldn't know because you didn't look). It doesn't even APPLY to most '83 Ford trucks because very few of them have had EFI engines retrofitted (like mine, which is why I collect newer information). It applies to ALL Ford EFIs before electronic throttles.
D) This thread isn't about drive-by-wire throttles. If you read the original post & several posts thereafter, you'll see MANY people claiming this procedure applies to all EFIs of all makes/models/years, including those with throttle cables. And that caption specifically addresses those claims.You mean you're the only self-righteous A-hole allowed to belittle other people? Because if you're referring to me, I haven't belittled anyone, or stooped to name-calling (except in quoting you). Nor have I told/suggested/ordered anyone NOT to do this procedure. I only laughed at some funny posts, and I'm still laughing...
So now that you've established that you'll argue FOR something that doesn't make sense JUST because it makes people feel better, I think we can all accurately assess your future advice in any thread. 700hauler's credibility=>gone
A) You're confusing the APP & TPS. If you're talking about DBW, then this procedure has no effect on the TPS (which is integrated in the throttle actuator), and your diagram shows why - the TPS is separate from the APP, and the throttle doesn't move during this process, so it's not being adapted or calibrated.B) The APP is also NOT being adapted or calibrated (as you mention further down in your post); certainly not 'manually' since this procedure claims to change the software adaptions. Pre~'87 TPSs were MANUALLY calibrated by loosening their screws & rotating them to achieve 0.5-1.0VDC at the throttle stop. But when Ford reprogrammed the EEC (as that caption describes), they also filled in the slots on the TPS so it couldn't be rotated. Since then, all throttle & idle adjustments are automatic & continuous (as your VECI label clearly states). So there's one more document (on each vehicle) proving this procedure is nonsense.
Here's another big flaw: if Ford programmed the PCM so this procedure worked, why wouldn't they do it at the factory? And if they did, why are you having to repeat it? Does it "wear off"? How long does that take? No mention in the original post how frequently it needs to be done to continue the "benefits". Every time you turn the key on? Once a week? A month? When the battery is replaced???
Well, I, for one, certainly am! His diagram proves bouncing the pedal has NO effect on the TPS, and his post states that the APP can't be calibrated without a scantool.But just so you know:
The diagram posted by password is NOT the Ford system. The Ford APP1 has a negative slope (5-0V), and APP2 & 3 have positive (0-5VDC), and there are only 2 VREF inputs; Ford doesn't use a 6V reference. Also, the Ford TPS has 4 wires: VREF, SIGRET (ground), TP1 (negative slope), & TP2 (positive).
it reads the resistance and sets it back to factory default (the if willed "0"), not the adaptive settings. when the system is charged it sends the voltage through the APP to the TPS (or TPS to APP how ever they have it set up) the digram is generic just to illustrate how it works and that there is a TPS, they can set it up any way they like.
The PCM has to have a "0" for the system to work, pedal goes down it either reads +/- voltage (agian depending on the set up) it has to have a start / stop. if it didnt then the engine could get confused and either go WOT or FCT no matter where you were or what postion the throttle (hence the redundancy), so any irregularities that cause it to go +/- to much voltage it hits "0" then gives it the +/- what ever voltage that is preset for limp mode. hence it has a default.
PS I like the old way better any how.
pre DBW; pedal hits floor = replace cable, lude, etc...
w/ DBW; Pedal no worky = hours with meter, new PCM, new throttle body, etc...$$$$.
where did Vida Go!
she always brightens my day
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Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Ravenel, Charleston, SC
That is certainly on the list. I did buy a Superchip programmer a while back and it made a hell of a difference.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,495
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From: Memphis, TN 38135, USA, Earth
No, it doesn't, as that caption describes. Even though the caption & diagram are for a manual throttle, the logic used by the PCM is identical, and doesn't require any true 0 - it ratchets the actual reading into an effective 0 as required. IOW, it chooses its own 0 whenever it wants to.
And your explanation of the +/- redundancy is way out in left field; it bears no similarity to Ford's description. It uses ONE of the potentiometers to read the APP, and only uses the others if it detects a logical error in the primary. But the redundancy (which is actually tripled) occurs elsewhere in the system, which is why it can NEVER get "confused" about where to send the TPS or how to get it there. There's even a mechanical failsafe built into the throttle mechanism, similar to the one in my cruise servo.
And your explanation of the +/- redundancy is way out in left field; it bears no similarity to Ford's description. It uses ONE of the potentiometers to read the APP, and only uses the others if it detects a logical error in the primary. But the redundancy (which is actually tripled) occurs elsewhere in the system, which is why it can NEVER get "confused" about where to send the TPS or how to get it there. There's even a mechanical failsafe built into the throttle mechanism, similar to the one in my cruise servo.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Brecksville, Ohio
I did this on Monday and got a little better throttle response. Before I did the process, I set my Gryphon back to stock. I have now been running my custom 87 perf tune and have a whole lot better throttle response. 
The only bad thing I'm noticing though is my mileage, according to the Gryphon, has gone down bigtime.
Before, I was getting 15 with my 87 perf tune and now I can't get it above 13-13.5 in either stock mode or with the tune. Since its winter, I let my truck warm up for a few minutes before I drive it so my average on the Gryphon goes down to like 8 but I can't get it to reach my normal numbers, and I don't have a lead foot. I will have to check my mileage by hand when I need to fill up but so far its not looking good.
The only bad thing I'm noticing though is my mileage, according to the Gryphon, has gone down bigtime.
Before, I was getting 15 with my 87 perf tune and now I can't get it above 13-13.5 in either stock mode or with the tune. Since its winter, I let my truck warm up for a few minutes before I drive it so my average on the Gryphon goes down to like 8 but I can't get it to reach my normal numbers, and I don't have a lead foot. I will have to check my mileage by hand when I need to fill up but so far its not looking good.
Last edited by DarkShadowSTX; Dec 18, 2010 at 07:11 PM.
Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 33
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From: Northern California
It works !!!!
It works just as described.
I'm only having to keep the gas pedal depressed about 1/2 inch to keep the truck @ 70 mph.
My mileage has improved when I'm able to keep my foot out of it, which isn't easy.
thanks for the free tip, OP.
I'm only having to keep the gas pedal depressed about 1/2 inch to keep the truck @ 70 mph.
My mileage has improved when I'm able to keep my foot out of it, which isn't easy.
thanks for the free tip, OP.
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: royal oak, mich
I have a 2002 FX4 and it has a cable directly linking the throttle body. My question is that I see 3 valve engine parameters in my tuning program. I wonder if a tune could help this problem? I'm not paying for another strategy just to look at it. I wonder if the VVT could be changed?
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From: Seabrook,NH
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Joplin MO
I have a 2002 FX4 and it has a cable directly linking the throttle body. My question is that I see 3 valve engine parameters in my tuning program. I wonder if a tune could help this problem? I'm not paying for another strategy just to look at it. I wonder if the VVT could be changed?