I'm glad I found this thread. OK here it goes.

I have a 92 f150 that came with a 302 and the E4OD tranny. I pulled the 302 and swapped to a 351W. I kept the 302 computer. It ran fine until I added my 6psi supercharger. It was running out of fuel about 3000rpms. I switched to 30lb motorsport injectors. I flood out and runs rough at idle, BUT TOP END IS UNBELIEVABLE. I've run a high 7 secs in the 8th mile with it. I also added 3.73 gears. Now here's my question. I can't seem to find a mass-air kit that does not come with injectors. I find them for the aod also and I am guessing that will work with my E4OD.

Please Help.

 

i might be wrong here, but i believe that if the computer is for an AOD it might not work with the E4OD since the E4OD is computer controlled. i might be wrong though, someone correct me if i am.

 

Baw, take a look at the computer chips section, and give Mike Troyer a call. He posts as Superchips_Distributor, and he could custom program a chip for you. This would help your idle problem, plus with proper tunning, you would pick up a NICE increase in power. Count on about 10% more than what you have now. The chip would probably be good for about 35 more hp, this is a low estimate.

 

Ok, I'll try that.

 

Holy crap a truck that runs 7's in the 1/8th, DANG, thats bad to the bone!!!!!

I don't know SQUAT about auto trannys and computer compatibility so I can't help you there at all. As far as what you problem is the cheapest thing to do is to convert to mass air and throw away the meter that comes w/ the conversion kit from FMS. Buy a 75mm Pro-M bullet for supercharged applications and 30lb injectors. IF at that point its not running to your satisfaction THEN get a tune. I doubt any mailorder chip manufacturers ability to burn a chip for a SPEED DENSITY, SUPERCHARGED, 30lb injectored combination. Now, if you go to a dyno and you get the chip done there w/ a wide-band air fuel ratio meter then maybe that would be ok. Kudo's again on that truck, what supercharger did you go with?

 

Well guys,i think i found part of the problem.Vac leak...right where the heat spacer is between the plenum and lower intake,it sucked that gasket right in.You guys were right.
It's still alittle choppy at idle though.It's time to give Pro-M a call
Any other advice guys?

Thanks again.
Jerry D.

 

baw,
Check out this site:
http://www.off-road.com/ford/bigbron...h/massair.html
There are some other sites if you search for related topics on the net, as many people are converting to MAF. Some sites for carb to efi swaps are also helpful.

One thing to consider is doing a MAF swap from a donor truck (95-96) with an E40D. Since the E40D is computer controlled I believe you would need a computer from a truck with an E40D, and that the AOD is different. You would have to have the complete engine and underhood wire looms, or modify yours. Either way, count on snipping, crimping, and otherwise scratching your head over a lot of wires. I can offer a little more info on resources if you decide to go this route. Just remember, its not as easy as plug and go when making your own conversion. If you can find a conversion package that will fit your needs it would be well worth it.

 

It is cammed so it will have some lope. What is it idling at? Did you set it to 900rpm and make sure the TPS was below 1.0 volts DC after setting idle? If it is still choppy then you have to look at timing and spark. What is your base timing set at w/ the plug out? Are the cap, roter, plug wires and plugs in perfect working order? How about the TFI module? This is a recently cammed vehicle right? What are you doing about EGR? Are you running open crankcase (air filter on the oil fill) or did you keep the PCV valve? In other words is it possible you are getting unmetered air into your engine?

Jerry

 

Jerry,
How do you set the idle to 900? I have replaced IAC, no codes after faulty TPS was replaced (for another reason), computer reset, but my idle is still 1400.

Timing is set to 10 before TDC with EEC feed loop pulled. Idle is about 1000 with plug pulled. Complete new distributor etc. It actually idles at 1000 on startup (never idles up for warm-up mode) and works its way to 1400 as it warms.

Any ideas? I know a vacuum leak is possible, but I havent found one yet. Im thinking its more sensor or EEC related.

 

There is a throttle stop screw that you manually turn to literally hold the throttle butterfly open which idles it up or down. Once you have it idling (warm) at the right RPM, then set your TPS. Do you know how to do that? Pierce the green wire w/ a needle and put your + voltmeter lead on that, - to the - battery terminal, set the meter to DC, have the truck in Key On, Engine Off, loosen the TPS screws and twist it until the voltage drops to JUST below 1.0 volts, set it to .99x if you can. If you can NOT get it to that voltage, you need to elongate the holes on the TPS sensor (use a dremel or file) so you CAN spin it enough to get the voltage correct. Once TPS is right, it might idle better for you too! If the computer things the engine is still going to be revved (> 1.0 volts TPS) then it will hold the idle up preparing for a shift..

Jerry

 

The TB adjustment screw is all the way back. I had a local shop work on my truck because it wouldnt start hot. They replaced the TPS for sending high voltages. I was under the impression that they set TPS to proper voltage, however, I've learned form experience to never trust anything you don't do yourself. Thanks for the info on how to set the TPS voltage.

 

Jerry ,
I have the idle set at 700RPM's,i'm gonna bump it up to 900.
I didn't check the voltage on the TPS yet,but i'm sure gonna check now.
The plugs,wires.cap and rotor and ignition module are all brand new.
The EGR is still hooked up,and i'm still using my oil cap with no extra breather.
I think i have to get that mass air meter that is calibrated for 24 lbs injectors,and i'll play around with the timing alittle.

Jerry D

 

UPDATE:
I just installed a Pro-M 75mm Bullet mass air meter,calibrated for 24lbs injectors.It works great.It took that chug/bog out of the lower rpm's.
I'm still having problems w/ the idle though.
Sometimes when i put it in DRIVE/REVERSE it stalls.I don't think it's the AIC valve,i just replaced it less than a year ago.
Any ideas?

 

Getting there, what did you set the idle RPM to? What is the TPS set to? Does the computer show any codes? You should have removed the battery cable for 45 minutes then reinstalled it. At that point, set the RPM to 900rpm +- 50rpm (given you have a cam) and made sure after the idle was set that the TPS was .99x volts or slightly less. If it still didn't run right you'd have to pull codes and address those..

 

Jerry K....what would i do without you.
I'm gonna work on it tonight and i'll let you know.

Thanks again.
Jerry D.