Thanks to the help of you guys here on the forum (PKRWUD most of all of course ) I managed to get my custom intake / mass-air conversion project running!
Thanks so much, I could've never done it without you!
It runs like a raped moneky now! Crazy how much more power it seems to have! SOTP feeling is amazing. A few tweaks remain, though:
1. I don't get any check engine light at all, when I try to check the codes. It doesn't even come on when I turn the ignition before starting her up (but I checked the bulb). Has anyone had that before?
2. I gotta find that vacuum leak
3. Oil gauge reads all the way to the right. What size resistor do I need to solder in there (or what else may be the problem)?

 

congrats on getting it running. that website you made is great, really detailed step-by-step info!

 

That is really cool. I like the Lightning TB. BTW how hard is it to remove the stock intake manifold? I want to replace the rockers and stuff. You also might want to think about getting a custom Superchip, because you have a larger TB, MAS, and fuel injectors. Go to the computer chips forum and get the phone # for Mike Troyer. His user name is Superchips_distributor. The chip alone gives a great performance increase. Plus with the mods you've done, you'd probably see even more than the normal 10-12%hp and 15% tq gain.

 

Thats exactly how mine is...I've had the truck for 2 years and never seen the light come on, I checked the bulb and all the other lights come on(ABS, Airbag thingy, brights ect..)
Never had any codes come up everytime I check so I guess it's ok.
Wait I got an idea....could I pull a sensors from some where(like the MAF sensor) and drive around and the check engine light should come on right?

 

96 was the first year of OBDII. That essentially means you can't check the codes yourself with just a jumper wire like the pre-96 people can. For my little 96 Miata I got this software for my laptop: http://www.obd-2.com/ $122 including the connector. I can now read all codes and I can monitor all sensors while I drive - totally awesome. Given that a check of the codes is $70 at most places, this is cheap (plus you can hook up your laptop to your car which is the coolest thing ever ). For example, on the Miata I'm going to install an open air filter and route cool air into the engine compartment. I'll use the intake air charge temp sensor to find out how to best route the cool air in there
It is also impossible to reset your codes post-96 if you trip them by pulling a sensor plug - you'll have to go to the dealer.

 

Very easy. Just get a set of gaskets, in case you break them upon removal. Remember that the middle bolt on the passenger's side is a torx bolt!

My truck is a manual. I don't think chips do much on them, do they? And wouldn't I need 97 octane then?

 

I think most chips make you bump up to atleast 91-93 octane

 

I was also thinking of getting that thing by Hypertech, it rewrites the chip just by plugging it in and pressing a few buttons, but I plan on getting a superchip so i don't know how it would effect it.

 

Sproket, dont waste your $$ on the hypertech, the superchip does everything that it does + it does all that better, and it works at any throttle position.

bjoern, even though you have a manual, the chip will still give you the hp & tq boost of 10-12%hp and 15% tq. And I didnt know how much it would work o nthe older trucks, but rather than beating my friend by 2 truck lengthd, it was more like 5-6 no lie. Best money I ever spent. Plus since you have the larger TB MAS and injectors, you need ot get your computer retuned for those things. If you buy it, you will ove it. Go onto the Computer Chip forum and post everything you have doen to the truck and ask Mike if you need to get a custom burn for all that stuff. I think "think" that ou might actually be running the truck lean, because of the increased air intake, and that could be bad on your engine, and the power that you could possibly have. Post or call Mike and he can/will explain everything in great detail.

 

Just my .02 on chips.... I have seen a good number of dyno figures and some charts on chips, and the vast majority don't even come close to claims. Of course this doesn't apply to just chips, most claims are best case.

You may get good gains in certain areas, but IMO the shifting advantages with an automatic make up more time than the actual power increases.

This is by no means a knock on Superchips or Mike. If they made a reg fuel chip I would order one, even if it didn't change timing at all. Having recently met him at the rally, he is even more a walking performance book then his threads show.

When you do the math, a chip that requires premium fuel will cost about $700 over a 4 year span. By contrast the fuel savings from my ignition upgrade had paid for the unit and started putting money back in my pocket after approx 2 years. At four years, the savings will have also paid for my stainless cat back system.

So after four years, my total expense for ignition, cat back, intake mods, and pulleys will have been $135. The continued fuel savings will make that up in short time.

The cost of a chip alone plus the increase in fuel price for premium, and the cost of the other mods over four years would have been $1235. Keep in mind this is comparing the lower initial cost of the chip vs the higher initial cost of the ignition.

 

you lost me at "Just"

 

im gonna have to agree with signmaster on this one, if it wasnt for the timing bump and the need for higher octane gas, i would have already bought one. just my opinion

 

Well guys I have the real world proof right here. Driving my truck hard, really hard I would get 11mpg. Driving it exactly the same, maybe even harder with the superchip, I just got 14mpg. I in no way regret my decision on a chip. And that mpg improvement pays the difference i nthe gas cost. I have done the mpg check 3 times to make sure, before I posted my results. The first time it was to good to be true. But it is. and let me tell you, the firmer shifts are not what gets me a 4 truck length more lead that what I would normally get. The HP/TQ is really there. If you put a chip in, you will really never take it out LOL.

 

hey bjoern,

what exactly did you do to mate the lightning TB to the 5.0's intake manifold?

 

The mounting holes in the Lightning TB had to be widened to 9mm (no biggie at all), they match just fine in all other respects. The only real problem is to mount the idle air control valve (IAC). With the L being a charged engine, the bypass air goes into the manifold, rather than just past the throttle bores, so the L TB doesn't have mounts for an IAC. What I did was having a machine shop make me a throttle body spacer (I think 2" thick) out of aluminum (the blueprints are on the page). I mounted the IAC on the spacer and used a U shaped piece of coolant hose from AutoZone or Napa with some plumbing fittings to route air from the rubber L intake elbow to the spacer. The spacer has two holes for the bypass air: one that is right between the two intake bores and is big enough to hit both bores with an opening, so the bypassed air gets evenly into the manifold. The other hole is basically L shaped and goes anywhere you can easily mount the plumbing nipple for the hose from the elbow - that's where the air comes in. Both holes are connected by the IAC.
Was that understandable? I'll try to take some close-up pictures to go with the blue-prints on the site.