ASP
BBK
March (which youve already tried)
FMS (i know they dont make em, but you could try harrassing them )

those are all the companies i can think of right now that make pulleys

 

Just make sure that the crank pulley is at least 20% larger than the water pump. Otherwise, the water pump can't cool properly.

Take care,
~Chris

 

Well she did it again! Ran too hot. Cleaned the condenser realy good...I can see through it now so I guess that wasn't it after all.
I want to test the sending unit but can't find it.
Chris wanna point me in the right direction...I know of the one on the t-stat elbow and I see something down by the dipstick that I think could be it but I don't know.
Also I'm running 50/50 so I'll do the 10/90 swap tomorrow....is regualar water from the hose ok?
Should I perhaps through a 180 degree t-stat in there?

It's weird because I'll just be doing normal city driving and she stays right at 1/4 or the "NO" then I'll get on the highway and she gets to about 1/2 "RM" then if I hit a red light she would go back to 1/4 and I'll start going again and she's back to 1/2 and if I hit a hill or if I'm driving her hard she gets to about 3/4 "AL"...she doesn't always do it on hills...only if I'm going kinda slow 30-40mph.

Thanks,
Justin

 

3/4 of the way across the temp gauge under extreme conditions (uphill in 100 degree heat) isn't bad. If it keeps going, and reaches the end of the gauge, then it's a problem.

Anyway, The sending unit is in the passenger side of the block, tucked up underneath the exhaust manifold, close to the firewall. You can only get to it from underneath, and it will be difficult to see. You're going to have to feel for it with your hands. Removing the passenger side wheel might make it easier.

A 180 t-stat will make a difference. It will run cooler all the time, though, which isn't really a good thing. You will get worse gas mileage, and foul your oil sooner. I would check the sending unit first. If you have an accurate thermometer that reads up to 225 degrees, test the sending unit by attaching the pos lead of your DMM to the tip where the harness plugs on, and the DMM neg lead to the sender body, and putting it and the thermometer in a pot of room temp. water on the stove. Make sure that only the tip of the sender is in the water. Set your DMM to ohms, and turn the stove on medium.

As the thermometer goes up the sender should have the following resistance:

Degrees ~ Ohms
77F ~ 2800
95F ~ 1800
112F ~ 1200
140F ~ 670
175F ~ 335
194F ~ 240
212F ~ 175

If it doesn't come near those numbers, replace it. If it does, go ahead and get a 180 t-stat.

Take care,
~Chris

 

I'll try borrowing my neigbors Ohms meter tomorrow...I think it's probly the sending unit because I've replaced everything with no success.
The truck begins to run crapy when the temp starts rising so if it's a bad sending unit it could also be sending the wrong temp to the ECM which in return would try to over compensate for the rising heat by running crappier. hell I dunno but it sounds smart

 

No. The temp sending unit described above is for the gauge only. The ECT, for the ECM, is mounted by the t-stat housing. The fact that the engine drivability suffers when the gauge says it's hot tells me that the gauge sending unit is fine. Instead, test the ECT with a DMM set to 200,000 ohms scale. With the engine off it should read around 26k ohms. Start the engine, and let it warm up until the upper radiator hose is firm and hot. The ECT should read around 2.8k ohms. If it tests okay, reattach the ECT connector, and disconnect the neg battery cable. Turn on the headlight switch for 10 minutes, turn it off, and reattach the cable. Start the truck, and drive to the auto parts store. Buy a 180 t-stat, and install it.



Take care,
~Chris

 

Well I couldn't get ahold of my neighbors DMM so I just went down to Ford and bought a new ECT for $29...I popped it in then reset the ECM. I drove up to Gorman 1/2 hour drive and back and it ran like a champ...although this was at about 1am so I'll see how she does later today as it get warmer outside.

 

Well after putting in the new ECT she runs a lot cooler!!!!!!! I spoke to the parts guy at the dealership and he said he's never seen one of these go bad until now.....but for some reason they have them in stock? hmmm
Kind of sucks how I replaced everything and all it was was a stupid piece of plastic and metal. Shouldn't this have brought up a code? Or could it be just it was working just not properly? Anyways....thanks again Chris
I bet you just can't wait til something else breaks on my truck

P.S. I also swapped the t-stat for a 180 and am running 20/80 coolant, I would have done 10/90 but I know i would be to lazy to change it again when winter comes.