Well, Starting tomorrow July 3rd, I am replacing the engine in my 93 F150 4.9L. Chris (PKRWUD) has been gracious enough to lend me the advise I needed to build my short block. Let me tell you, I have a lot of experience building Chevy engines, but, this was the first Ford I have rebuilt and it was not bad. It is a short block, so I will be using a lot of the parts off my current 4.9L setup. For those of you wanting to accomplish the same task, here is a break down of my costs to date:

Used '87-'95 Short Block from Salvage Yard $150.00

Boil, Bead Blast, Bore .030 over, Hone, Install Cam Bearings and Freeze Plugs, Clean & Polish Crank, Clean and hang new Piston on Rods $166.00

Complete Master Engine Rebuild Kit from NorthernAutoParts.com with shipping $328.68

Oil Pump Screen (tossed old one by mistake) AutoZone $14.99

New Cam Thrust Plate, Spacer and Key for Timing Gear (Again lost units from breakage during tear down of new engine) $45.00 (includes overnight shipping from Ford Dealer.)

Oil, Filters, Antifreeze, Transmission Fluid, rags, break clean, etc. $25.00 -$45.00

Not bad, for a complete engine swap. I am using my current head from my running engine. I have had it off and it looks OK. If I get into it during the swap and it needs some TLC, add about $65.00 for a standard Clean and Grind.

My brother is coming down tomorrow night to assist with the swap, we have planned for 4 days to complete this. It won't take that long, but it is expected to be near or over 100 degrees with the heat index for the next week or so, and my garage is not A/C'd, so we will take it easy..

Anyone got any tips for priming the oil pump? My Chevy primmer will not fit. I did remove the cover to the pump and put some MolyGraphite lube in it, but not the same as priming.

Thanks, and wish me luck!

 

If you cant find a shaft that fits the ford oil pump to prime it you could just pull the efi fuse and crank the engine till you have pressure, then put the fuse back in and fire it up. As long as you lubed everything inside you don't have to worry. This is how we do it on the rice burner engines since there is no way to prime them, the oil pump is driven off the timing belt.

It works for 4 cyls. at least.
-Jon

 

sounds like you have it all figured out

 

Pulled the engine yesterday. That was a job..... Both Motor mounts were shot, when I lifted the block out, the tops of both fell to the ground. I fear this is what caused my rear seal to leak on the block. The engine would twist upon accelerating causing the seal to smash and move. the little buggers are $45.00 each... OUCH.. Also self inflected some damage to the flex plate. The harmonic balancer bolt was stubborn and I tried to secure the flex plate to keep the crank from turning, this "bonehead" move bent the flex plate.. Another $45.00 mistake... Live and Learn!

Going to install the new block tonight. Should have it completed by noon tomorrow.. Have a good weekend.

Justin

 

For future reference, there is only one correct way to remove the harmonic balancer bolt from ALL engines, except for reverse rotation Honda's, and that is to put the socket on a breaker bar, and then on the bolt. With the breaker bar leaning against the ground, just to the drivers side of center, disconnect the coil, and then go bump the key. All done. No muss, no fuss.

Take care,
-Chris

 

Changed engines!!!!! No more "Diesel Sound" on startup. Cleaning the head was a bear... SuperClean is a good product, but it will eat your hands up if you don't wear gloves!

The engine fired first time I turned the key! Set the timing to 10 Degrees. Strong and QUIET...

Will run it under 55 for a few thousand miles to "set it in".

With the increase in "Liters" in volume of engine displacement, will the truck now run lean due to the amount of fuel vs displacement area? IF so, sould I adjust my timing to compensate? If so, what should it be adjusted to?

When should I start to use "Synthetic" oil again?

My truck has a new lease on LIFE!!!!!

Thanks Chris for your help!

Justin

 

I wouldn't worry about it. There shouldn't be any problem. You can always check your plugs every so often to see if they look any leaner than they usually do, but I wouldn't worry about it.

I'd wait until after the first 1000 miles, but you could probably start using it now if you wanted to.

Take care,
-Chris