I happened to come across that while looking for one online. I'm going to check with junkyards to see if they have any.

I did a search for that part number and was able to get one from O'Reilly. It will be here tomorrow. Now I nees to remove the rest of it from the fuel rail.

 

I got the new part today and checked the pressure. The CM3461 part is correct even though O'Reilly's website says it isn't compatible. Amazon also listed it as not compatible.

engine not running - front 52 back 28
idle - front 42 back 38
throttle snap - front 52 back 28

 

plenty of pressure on the front, and seems to have FPR reacting the right way. Still makes the shaking more of a mystery. I'll fut on my thinking cap again, if I can find it.

 

Do you think bad u-joints might cause a vibration during certain speed ranges under a load? The guy that did the alignment said they seem tight but heard some chirping noise from them. Only when backing up though.

 

If they are chirping they are dry and should be replaced.

 

usually with a u joint you get a clunk when starting forward or backing up if worn badly, and otherwise it will give a steady vibration going down the road, That said I wouldn't discount anything. With the parking brake on and the shiftier in neutral try turning motion back and forth, with your hands on drive shaft any significant wear should be visible, or felt with the hand if holding the yokes with the other hand.

 

This is what I've done so far for maintenance/upkeep.

- New plugs, wires, and distributor. The pickup in the original one went bad. I still have it and plan on cleaning it and replacing the sensor.
- Fuel filter
- Cooling system flush, heater core and thermostat replacement
- Changed oil/filter, trans fluid and differential fluid
- Replaced O2 sensors that are in the exhaust manifolds

So far I only get the lean code(s) only when using the rear tank. Only bank one showed up before I replaced the O2 sensors. Now I get a P0420 and it shows up with both tanks. I also get bank 1 and 2 lean codes only if I use the rear tank. If the cat is bad, I need to decide if I should have a universal one installed or if I should get something like this:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...414594&jsn=491

Old plugs. #6 on the left and #1 on the right.




Old O2 sensors. Bank 1 (cylinders 1-3) on the top:



The old coolant. The stuff on the right is from the first flush and the stuff on the left is from the third flush. I think it could have used a couple more doses. I'd say at least 85% of the stuff I could see in the radiator is gone though.



I'm looking for some stuff to properly mount these items. Any help knowing what I should look for will be helpful.



This is from inside the passenger door. I haven't looked in the drivers door to see if anything is there due to the way the panel is kind of held on. There was some sort of seal that was kind of attached to this. It came out in pieces though. There wasn't any sign of the hardware used to hold it on so I have no idea what held it on.




I also picked up a front license plate bracket. I didn't have any luck getting part numbers from the dealership so I could look online for similar parts. The mounting hole on the bottom also does not seem to match up with anything on the bumper.

 

The spark plugs look to like they are all running lean because of the chalky look. I don't think bad/plugged cats will cause lean condition. You can do a back pressure test on the cats to confirm any blockage. Things that may cause lean condition are: low fuel pressure, vacuum leaks, dirty/partially plugged fuel injectors..

 

Universal cats are fine as long as you can still mount the downstream O2 sensor. That's what is tripping the P0420, the downstream sensor is detecting low cat efficiency. However, once the lean condition is fixed, the P0420 may go away. You *might* need to replace the downstream sensor.

 

I wasn't trying to imply bad cats will cause a lean condition. Guess I should have worded that differently. I have a vacuum gauge so I'll try doing that test procedure. Those are the old spark plugs in the pictures.

There hasn't been a lean code since I stopped using the back tank.

 

I have a new fuel pump on hand and plan on doing it this weekend. Do you think it would be easier to remove the bed or drop the tank? Something to consider is that I have a plastic bed liner and it looks like one of the previous owners used to screws to hold it in place.

 

since you have the bed liner screwed down, it would probably be easier to drop the tank. I don't know if the fuel lines connections will be hard to access without letting the tank down a little first. Good luck with the procedure.

 

The fuel pump has been replaced. I also replaced one of the u-joints and that seems to have fixed the vibration. The back one seems fine. The front one was bad for sure. I could see 2 of the 4 ends moving side to side when I held the shaft and twisted the slip yoke. 3 cups were completely dry. The two that moved side to side had no needle bearings left. One of those 2 was missing part of the lip that held the seal in place and the part that went inside the cup was severely worn.

I am still getting a P420. The downstream O2 sensor has been replaced. I went to an exhaust shop and the guy doesn't think it's the cats. I may end up taking it to a repair shop and see if they can get some freeze frame data.

My next DIY at home projects are to replace the valve cover and push rod cover gaskets, and replace the AC compressor. I'm debating on replacing the fuel injectors while I have the intake off.