Pre-1997 Models

1992 electical issues

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Old Nov 4, 2016 | 07:58 AM
  #31  
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I see the confusion. In posts # 10, 12, and 14 you said you had a new heavier wire from the alternator to the pos+ post of the battery which sounded like a replacement charge wire. The next model of alternator has a bolt that the charge wire goes on. That's the bolt I thought you were talking about. So it should have been charging.
Now that you say that it goes to the neg- post I can see it in the picture there - just an auxiliary ground wire.
Now that we've got that bit of confusion out of the way it's more simple - you've just got your charge wire on the wrong post of the solenoid. Move it from the left post to the right one and you should be fine.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2016 | 02:19 PM
  #32  
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1995XLT, are you referring to the green wire which I said the three wires from the bottom alternator plug tie into?
 
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Old Nov 5, 2016 | 07:11 PM
  #33  
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Yes. It's on the left post, it belongs on the right post. Should solve the problem.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2016 | 07:29 PM
  #34  
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Thank you so much, 1995XLT. I am at some sort of public bonfire tonight, but I will switch the wire and report my hopeful success tomorrow.
 

Last edited by dbenko13; Nov 5, 2016 at 07:58 PM.
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 09:35 AM
  #35  
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SUCCESS!!! I switched the wire and got a voltage reading of 12.75 at the battery with the truck off, 16.02 at idle!
Thank you so much for your knowledge and patience, 1995XLT.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 05:12 PM
  #36  
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1995XLT...HELP. The success was short-lived. I ran it this morning, but ran the fuel lines dry. After putting petrol in it, it now wants to start, but doesn't turn over. I can hear the fuel pump engaging. It wants to start, but if I step on the gas while the key is turned it dies out.
Does it just take a while for the fuel to work through the line after being run dry?
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 06:26 PM
  #37  
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No, it's pretty much instantaneous. I just bought a parts truck on friday that hadn't run for a year - put a battery in it, turned the key and it fired right up.
You will want to maybe get a fuel pressure gauge - it screws on to a schrader valve (bicycle tire valve) on the chrome fuel rail - driver's side of the engine just behind the distributor. A 5.0 requires 30 to 45 psi fuel pressure to run (40 to 45 being what you want to see).
Low pressure could mean a weak pump, clogged fuel filter or a couple other things.
Just for reference - "crank" and "turn over" mean the engine is turning, "start" or "fire up" mean it actually starts to run.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 06:34 PM
  #38  
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Once again, you are a great teacher (and I appreciate your patience with the 'automotivly-challenged').
Would it be easier to replace the fuel filter, or would I be 'shooting rubber bands at the moon'?
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 06:46 PM
  #39  
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16 volts is too high! You will boil the battery.

It NEVER hurts to replace the fuel filter - especially if you ran it dry and sucked all that crap from the bottom of the tank through the system.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 07:13 PM
  #40  
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You want to see about 14.5 volts. The integral regulator in the alternator could be faulty.Should be under warranty, don't say anything about the wiring thing.
Fuel filter is always a good idea as glc mentioned, but check the fuel pressure first. You can get a gauge on a loan a tool program but you're almost as far ahead to buy one for $50 - you will use it again, once you know how.
I say check the fuel pressure first because you want to see if that's even an issue or if you should be looking elsewhere.
 
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