I have been searching the sight for awhile now and wanted to post. I recently bought a 1996 Ford F-150 XLT with a 300 4.9l. It has 23,500 miles. When I got the truck the fuel economy seemed alright 15-18 mpg. The MPG is now about 7-10 mpg. I only drive the truck on the weekends (50-100 miles a month) and its not for long periods of time. I accelerate carefully and drive conservatively. I replaced the thermostat this month because it was stuck wide open and the truck wouldn't warm up. Also, replaced both O2 sensors because the check engine light gave me the code. Also, installed a K&N air filter. I was told by the Ford dealer that I would be wasting my money to do a full tune up. Which I would think would be plugs, wires, rotor and cap. What would you guys suggest. Please help.

Matt

 

A full tune-up is not a waste of money if it's needed! Yes; plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, PCV, Air Charge Temp Sensor, Engine Coolant Temp sensor, clean TB and IAC. Also, take a wire brush to the ignition coil electrode, as it may be dirty. A new coil would not hurt, especially if the electrode is pitted.

You can do the above, in an afternoon.

 

I was thinking the same thing. The amount of money I am going through in gas would eventually saved after the tune up. I guess they figured since the vehicle has little (24K miles) use that nothing should be changed. Oh well, I am going to do a full tune up.

Whats the typical mileage on a short bed, 2wd, 300ci, with stock tires? Should I go with motorcraft only parts?

I had the Ford dealer do the rear main seal, oil pan and transmission pan gaskets. I have had to return 4 times and the leak still isn't fixed. Still a slow leak some where. I am dropping it off again today.

 

Toss that K&N and put a paper filter back in it.

The 300 isn't too picky on ignition parts as long as you don't use cheap crap. Autolite copper plugs are preferred, don't use platinum. Throw some Techron in the gas to clean the injectors.

 

Go to your favorite parts store and purchase lifetime warranty wires, Motorcraft or Autolite Copper core plugs, a lifetime warranty (brass contact - heavy duty) cap & rotor, an ignition coil, a WIX or Motorcraft fuel and air filter, an ACT Sensor, and an ECT Sensor.

If you would like to use Motorcraft parts only, go to www.rockauto.com and purchase them at a lower price (after shipping) than the dealership parts counter.

 

Thanks for the advice. The dealer has it now trying to track down that oil leak. I will definitely check out rockauto.

MFW

 

I'd expect 15 with fresh ignition like everyone already mentioned.

What is the axle code on the door jam sticker?

Adrianspeeder

 

I would kill for 15 right now haha. As far as the axle... I will check and report back when I get the truck back. Hopefully, I will get it back and the leak will be fixed.

 

Oil Leak update:

So, the Dealer called and said they found the leak. They said it was coming from the inspection cover above the oil filter. and it would cost $368 to replace. I then reminded them that I brought the truck in for an oil leak in August and they diagnosed a rear mail seal and recommended new gaskets on the oil pan and tranny. I paid for all of those things to be fixed and when I got the truck back in continued to leak. After 7 trips yes 7 trips to the dealer over the same leak they found it in the inspection plate. After reminding the service manager of the $1100 spent on repairs that never fixed the problem they decided to fix it for free. So, I am hoping to have my truck back soon leak free.

 

Is the ignition coil, ACT and ECT sensor a must for the tune up?

 

No, they are not a MUST change item. Although, they are the original parts on a 1996 vehicle. If the electrode (male post) on the coil is pitted, you will need to take a wire brush to it. Excessive pitting would warrant a new coil.

 

Well, I figured out my fuel issue. My rear tank is relocating fuel to the front tank. So, I am going to fill both tanks and re calculate my mpg.

MFW

 

You need to fix that. It's a common issue.

 

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/738363_1

Adrianspeeder

 

Thanks guys, looks like the FDM is in the fuel pump. Since it starts rough only on the front tank I will be replacing the fuel pump and the fuel sender that only read accurately from full to a half tank before it sporadically moves back and forth. Looks like an expensive repair since I only use Motorcraft parts