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93 f150 brake help!

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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 10:41 PM
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93 f150 brake help!

Today I was going to replace the front brake pads and noticed the retaining pins were bone dry my question is do these need to be lubed in order for the caliper to work right? Feels like they are sticking And that caused the rotors to get chewed up! If I lube those pins will the calipers not "stick"? I have steel pistons btw maybe a couple of years old
 
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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 11:11 PM
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Yes, the pins need to be lubed. Use something like Sil-Glyde.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by glc
Yes, the pins need to be lubed. Use something like Sil-Glyde.

Awesome hopefully this will fix the issue! Really didn't want ti have to bleed the brakes again I just bled them a month ago. Thanks for your held glc.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2013 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by glc
Yes, the pins need to be lubed. Use something like Sil-Glyde.


I forgot to ask. If those pins aren't lubed would thay cause the issue I'm having
 
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Old Sep 7, 2013 | 08:45 PM
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If they don't slide back and forth, of course they will drag.

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Old Sep 7, 2013 | 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by adrianspeeder
If they don't slide back and forth, of course they will drag.

Adrianspeeder

Ok I'm glad I probably won't need calipers. Thia ia my first time ever working on brakes. Aorry for the stupid questions lol
 
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Old Sep 8, 2013 | 01:25 AM
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No such thing as a stupid question when it comes to working on brakes.

Every metal to metal contact surface should be cleaned and lubed - not just the pins. Just keep the lube away from the rotors and pads.

Don't even start a brake job without a tube of Sil-Glyde (sold by NAPA) and a few cans of spray brake parts cleaner.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2013 | 02:06 AM
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I bought 2 cans of crc brakleen and 2 packs of crc brake grease but I'm gonna bring the grease back amd get sil-glyde I heard some bad stuff about the crc grease.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2013 | 12:14 PM
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Get a tube of Sil-Glyde, not just little packets. It's not expensive and it will last you a LONG time and has many other uses.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2013 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by glc
Get a tube of Sil-Glyde, not just little packets. It's not expensive and it will last you a LONG time and has many other uses.
I got a 4oz tube I paid 7 bucks for it.

I got the rotors off but I don't know how to get the big bearing in the back of the rotor out? Do I have to go get new ones or can I remove it?
 
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Old Sep 8, 2013 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 93f150302
I got a 4oz tube I paid 7 bucks for it.

I got the rotors off but I don't know how to get the big bearing in the back of the rotor out? Do I have to go get new ones or can I remove it?
I use a brass drift to tap it out from the front side of the hub out towards the back with the rotor facing up supported by two blocks of wood with a clean towel underneath. Clean out the bearings real good, and you can reuse if they ain't all scored up. I'll let you in on my patented secret of a zipblock bag o grease to repack the bearings.

Adrianspeeder
 

Last edited by adrianspeeder; Sep 8, 2013 at 01:20 PM.
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Old Sep 8, 2013 | 02:38 PM
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Ok it worked! Got the passenger side rotor on looks good bearings looked like new no scratches so looks like I'm good to go! Thanks for the help guys!
 
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Old Sep 8, 2013 | 03:54 PM
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Well crap I'm having problems now the back pad (small one) wont go on with that little metal clip on the pad but slides right in without it is ok if I leave it out? Also the brake dragging I pushed the piston in all the way possibly the pads are too thick? Or something isn't right?
 
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Old Sep 8, 2013 | 04:23 PM
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The small back pad will not move with the clip in brakes are still dragging
 
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Old Sep 8, 2013 | 05:02 PM
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The clip is for anti rattling. Not a big deal to me personally.

If the caliper is still dragging, you need to clean the scale and rust off the caliper bracket track so it moves freely back and forth without much effort.

Or you have cheap *** wrong pads.

Adrianspeeder
 
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