Gauge install.
#1
Gauge install.
Within the next couple weeks I will be modifying a 92-96 a pillar gauge pod to fit a brick and look factory, then installing 3 gauges.
The Oil pressure is all figured out.
Where should I tap in for the water temp at? The fitting to put in a radiator hose is an extra 15 bucks.. I could make one cheaper if there is a smaller size hose I can put it on, like the heater core size ones.
And the vacuum, will the cruise shut off vacuum line be accurate or should I go straight to the manifold?
Thanks guys. I will have a write up of everything once I get it all figured out and done up.
Oh and big thanks to CPtrucks for the gauges
The Oil pressure is all figured out.
Where should I tap in for the water temp at? The fitting to put in a radiator hose is an extra 15 bucks.. I could make one cheaper if there is a smaller size hose I can put it on, like the heater core size ones.
And the vacuum, will the cruise shut off vacuum line be accurate or should I go straight to the manifold?
Thanks guys. I will have a write up of everything once I get it all figured out and done up.
Oh and big thanks to CPtrucks for the gauges
#6
You're in luck.
The 4.9 has (2) water temp sensing ports.
The first is on the T-Stat housing. It's the one for the ECT sensor that the computer uses. That one you do not want to mess with. Not ever.
The other is low in the block in the on the RH side in the water jacket. That's the port the gauge sender uses. It's a pipe thread, IIRC 3/8" NPT (about 11/16" outside thread diameter); I may be in error on that size though. It may be smaller. You can either pull and discard the sender and screw your aftermarket sender in its place or you can screw a schedule 40 black iron nipple and tee into the port, install the factory sender in one leg of the tee and your sender in the other. DO NOT use brass fittings. They have been known to break in this application.
The 4.9 has (2) water temp sensing ports.
The first is on the T-Stat housing. It's the one for the ECT sensor that the computer uses. That one you do not want to mess with. Not ever.
The other is low in the block in the on the RH side in the water jacket. That's the port the gauge sender uses. It's a pipe thread, IIRC 3/8" NPT (about 11/16" outside thread diameter); I may be in error on that size though. It may be smaller. You can either pull and discard the sender and screw your aftermarket sender in its place or you can screw a schedule 40 black iron nipple and tee into the port, install the factory sender in one leg of the tee and your sender in the other. DO NOT use brass fittings. They have been known to break in this application.
#7
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#8
#10
The ECT is one of the sensors most critical to the proper operation of the PCM. You do not want to do anything to alter that signal
#11
If you unplug the temp sensor the computer reads it will go ape chit. Limp mode cel kinda stuff.
I don't have the gauges yet, they should of shipped out yesterday I think.
I will get some pics up asap. Sending the check for the pod I'm getting from a friend tomorrow so it will be a week or so till I get that done. Gotta pick up another stock pillar to fuse with the gauge one and some sort of color match paint or dye or something.
I don't have the gauges yet, they should of shipped out yesterday I think.
I will get some pics up asap. Sending the check for the pod I'm getting from a friend tomorrow so it will be a week or so till I get that done. Gotta pick up another stock pillar to fuse with the gauge one and some sort of color match paint or dye or something.
#12
#13