Pre-1997 Models

urgent brake master cylinder

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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 12:20 PM
  #1  
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From: belgium, koekelare
master cylinder and bleeding

because of a brake pedal going to the floor (at the same time of the bearing that were broke?) pedal to the floor actually happened since i change the brake pads (and as stupid) as it is disconnected the front line.
i already changed my brake booster which had the hissing thing. i bled my brakes today (only front) do i need to do the rear at the same time? brake travel is already less then before wich is good.
but i thought it should start braking from the moment you hit the brake? is this right or not?
 

Last edited by johny89; Nov 11, 2011 at 06:22 PM. Reason: new title and questions
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 07:00 PM
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From: Joplin MO
The rears need to be bled BEFORE the fronts - you start bleeding at the one farthest away from the master cylinder then do them in line length order.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 07:03 PM
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From: belgium, koekelare
Originally Posted by glc
The rears need to be bled BEFORE the fronts - you start bleeding at the one farthest away from the master cylinder then do them in line length order.
thanks ill try tomorow
 
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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 11:49 AM
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From: winston-salem nc
brake travel should be 1/4 to 1/2 inch before engage, always start bledding like so right rear , left rear, right front, left front
 
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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 02:37 PM
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From: belgium, koekelare
does the engine has to be on (runing) while bleeding,
btw is there an easy way loosening rusty bleeders?
 
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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 03:04 PM
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From: Joplin MO
It's a lot easier to bleed with the engine running so you have boost. Try some PB Blaster on the screws.
 
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