i just trade in my fiat punto for a ford f150 1987, it has a 4.9engine and automatic trans (don't know wich one yet)
i have several problems:

1. when i just start the truck and put in D, 1 or 2 the truck won't move in R it does. after couple times steppin the gas to +-2000 rpm its start driving, with no problems on shifting. only when i shut it down and let it cool +- half an hour it needs the same routine to start. anyone an idea

2 the dashboard light are not lit, turnd the light switch couple times but nothing. (update: fuses and lightbulbs are OK)[UPDATE:light switch replaced, found the old one burned, someone took radio-ground over the dash lights

3. when steering the belt squeecks, it has a 'home made' tensioner on wich will be replaced soon could this be the problem or is the pump gone (previous owner said it has a leak).

4. the first days i had it: after driving and when pushing the gas on and of water came out the expansion box and the radiator. (since my belt fell of couple times i havent driven far anymore)[UPDATE: after air bleeding the cooling system, and changing radiator cap (wich had no spring anymore) everything was ok ]

5 i hear a blowing noise in the cabin but when i push the brake its gone... "update" the sound is coming thru the hole behind the brake pedal, it also brakes on late point. i have to push the pedal to the end... [UPDATE brake booster replaced, sound is gone and idle is much lower +-850-900 ]

6. are there US, UK or other country junkyard/shops that ship stuff to belgium?

7. what do i need to read out any error messages (Engine warning light flashes now and the, Rear antilock constant on)
on my previous car i had an OBDII thing but don't know if i can still use it.
all ideas on these are welcome.

 

1. Your transmission needs rebuilding. It's probably a C6.

2. Check the fuses.

7. No, this is EEC, not OBD2. You need a Ford EEC reader or use the "paperclip" technique.

 

1. is it best to buy a rebuild transmission and replace it when the old one fails?
2. checked fuses and lamps, everything from that was ok (how do i test the lights switch does it has 0ohms or does it need more for the dash lighting (since its a dimmer))
7. whats the paperclip method? where can i find such a reader (i'm planning on restauring the truck and keeping it)

 

Read this caption & then create a signature with your truck's details. You can omit "F150" and "19.." since we assume that. But put the engine size, transmission model, trim level, cab/bed configuration & wheelbase, transfer case model (if 4WD), gear ratio, tire size, miles (or KMs), modifications, maintenance, damage, repairs, etc.



For your truck, it might look something like:
87 4.9L AOD XLT std. cab shortbed 117" 2WD 2.73open 215/75R15 200,000KMsThat could be as simple as low fluid. Read this:

Did you check the fuses under the dash near the e-brake pedal?Yes, improper belt tension can cause belt squeal, and long-term squealing can ruin the belt. I'd install a new belt with the correct tensioner.

That sounds VERY bad. The head gasket could be blown, allowing combustion chamber pressure into the cooling system. There's a very simple & effective chemical called a "block test" commonly available here that will detect exhaust in the cooling system.The brake booster has a leak - replace the unit.

Putting "Belgium" in your profile will let the users here know why your sentences are so broken, which might result in better answers since we'll know you're multilingual, and NOT just another lazy illiterate American.

You'll have to ask each supplier you find if they'll ship to you. I've shipped some used parts to Canada, UAE, Argentina, & UK, but it's expensive and time-consuming to deal with all the customs paperwork, and it's risky since neither of us can really know what happened if the shipment is reported missing.For the engine light, read this caption:



For RABS, read this one:

 

fluid level of trans is ok. took the car to a transmision repair shop, they told be it would be because of the vac leak in the break booster, is this true?

 

Is it carb'd or EFI? I can't remember when the 4.9 was EFI'd. Either way I don't believe the E4OD was out yet either. So that could mean a C6. I also thought that the C6 wasn't available with EFI. Any way I'm just confusing myself. So to the O.P. just follow what Steve and glc say and I'm sure you'll be fine.

BTW how did an 87 f150 end up in Belgium??

 

its an EFI, and probably C6, at the repair shop they told me it didn't need a rebuild. as i said they say since there's a vac leak and its controlled by vac and when the oil is cold the remaining vac isn't strong enough to shift...
its an 88 but the customs papers are made in 87. its imported when it was new. probably by a rich guy since i still paid 4500 euro (+-5000usd) for it in this state

 

What is the TRANS code on the door jamb sticker?

 

trans code is K so according to steve83's picture its a C6. looking at mileage and power should i change it with another type while busy or keep this type rebuilded? found on a forum the inner seal on the forward clutch drum would be bad. or is this an 'easy' to fix thing?

 

The only other automatic offered with a 4.9 was a E4OD, and to run one of those you will need a computer. It's no stronger than a C6.

 

Yes rebuild the C6!!!! IMO its the best "no tech" transmission out there. Strong, dependable, and not much to really go wrong compared to an E4OD. E4ODs are still very good units, but with the electronics that go with it, they can be cumbersome in diagnosing a problem.

 

what tools and so do i need i can also get it done for 700$ if i take it of myself (how is this done? is it just retain bolts and let go or do i need a carlift for the job?

as i lost my count on the questions i just shoot the next, my front seat (driver side) seems to go to much backwards as if im almost lying down (have to put somthing behind to sit good) i already looked inside and around it clicks and stuff but not on the right position? anyone had this before

 

No, the brake booster isn't a likely reason for the transmission problem. You should be able to find several articles on the web about rebuilding the C6. If you raise the truck onto some tall jack stands, you can get the transmission out under the frame.

.

The E4OD is vastly stronger than the C6, and the electronics make it easier to diagnose.

 

by participating another thread (the gear swap)
i been thinking about changing the c6 to a e4od.
what would i need to know before and whilst doing it,
and what do i need in addition of actually doing it.
thinking about comp, wiring,
can i take this from a 6.5V8 4x4 (same year) or do i need to look for a 2wd same engine? (4.9 is very rare in europe)

 

Switching to an E4OD is a really bad idea.
In addition to the transmission itself you would need a processor for the same model year truck with your engine and an E4OD. Unfortunately there were no 87 trucks with an E4OD. IIRC the first year for them was 90. You might be able to cobble in a 90 processor but there could be some control differences between the 87 and 90 engines. No guarantees there. You would also need a powwertrain wiring harness for the 4.9/E4OD, the various tranny sensors and any engine sensors that changed between 87 and 90.

When you got it all put together, you would probably still need to rebuild the E4OD since the earlier versions had some serious problems which weren't corrected till 95-96. Rebuilding an E4OD is neither simple to do nor cheap to have done.

Do yourself a very, very big favor and stick with the C6. You'll be time, money and effort ahead and much happier with the result