It has reached normal temperature - look at the needle; it's in the normal range of the gauge. It's very low, but it's in the normal band. What's the outside temperature?You need to add brake fluid.



If the fuel gauge never moves off the full peg, read these captions:

 

temperature is around 10°celsius, wich is i think bout 50°F i think it running rather cold i never had car like this but al my other cars where almost always with temp in center of NORMAL.

forgot to say parking brake is on.

fuel gauge does move but when tank is full its shows overfill.... when its half way or something it wiggles around depending on the road and cornering etc...
since they overrided the rear tank for some reason i'l live with it till i find the reason unless you know this is not the cause and could tell me what is.


as for the RABS could you show me pictures of the connections on the rear wheels? i found some connectors disconnected at the rear axle (could be causing the RABS)
or could it be that the brakes are not bled properly

 

The gauge is just a gauge - not a meter; it's not calibrated. Two trucks running at exactly the same temperature might show very different needle positions. That's why the normal band occupies almost all of the gauge - anywhere other than the ends is OK. If you want to know the actual temperature, buy something like this:

<-Clickit

Did you read those captions about the fuel gauge? They explain why the fuel gauge motion might not be directly related to fuel level. But it's normal for cornering, braking, & accelerating to cause the fuel to slosh in the tank & the needle to react. It has nothing to do with the number of working fuel tanks - the gauge is only connected to 1 tank at a time. If you want to prevent the gauge from reacting to slosh, add an anti-slosh module as described in this album's captions:



For more info about RABS, click that chart in my previous post, then click the NEXT link in the top left corner and continue.

 

since car is at the shop for head gasket replacement (i don't have the right tools), i will be looking at the RABS when it gets back.
maybe it could already help you help me diagnosing the rabs: when i start the engine rabs does not come on untill my foot goes of the brake pedal. then its on steady

 

truck is back, still have RABS light, soft brake pedal but full braking power, and no cruise control,
does the rabs make the cruise inoperative?
also i have some wires going to the radio can't figure out what there for since they're not connected to the radio: black/orange cable ; lt blu/red cable
what are these for?

 

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