So here is another problem I have been battling since the end of last summer.

I have a 1994 XLT Super, 4x4 automatic hubs with push-button, E4OD, Long Bed, I am guessing stock gears, but it moves like a mustang.

I will reconnect my my battery and while running my 4x4 lights will flicker both on the switch and the dash. The occurred right after I installed a gauge cluster from a supposed lightning of the same year, on to my truck. I replaced the cluster because I had replaced everything else that was suggested to replace in the forums, and still hadn't solved my shifting problem. (if you are getting a bad VSS Signal, the PSOM can be the culprit and spit bad info to the PCM after it goes through the speedometer). I had the shifting problem for 2 years now. So I solved the problem with shifting. Prior to replacing the cluster I had also replaced the starter the winter before (while having the shifting problem) and repaired the broken wire that went to the starter (not the primary wire). I also replaced the fender solenoid at that time. I forgot to mention that I did disconnect the electronic shift control switch (ESCS) and the lights on the dash still flickered, but not the ESCS (thank god, because I already think this truck is possessed) :-)

I should also mention before we get started that after resetting the system by disconnecting the battery for a while, the 4x4 will work correctly for a short period of time again. But this condition quickly degrades over a period of weeks. I don't drive the truck daily but maybe 2-3 times a week or less.

I solved the PSOM problem for the last time now (got it straightened out).

So now I have this 4x4 light flicker and I can't use my 4x4 half the time until the switch eventually quits working all together, but still get flicker.

I have read that replacing a solenoid that is not OEM might not have a resistor that is required to absorb bleed off power from the coil. Not having the resistor can cause damage to the electrical. Not sure if this is true.

I looked everywhere to find if the solenoid had the resistor but couldn't find any definitive proof of such a thing.

Also right before I replaced the solenoid, starter, and wire, my door locks quit working. So of course this all happens in the winter.

I tried to diagnose the locks every way I could think of (don't know how to properly operate an voltmeter but the very basics) and found power at the switches.

I mention all of this because I don't know if this could have any bearing or give a background leading up to the 4x4 problem.

I should also mention that I replaced the clock spring to shut up the airbag light. I think that was right before I replaced the cluster. I will try to put these events in order.

1: winter 2009, Starter problems
a: replaced battery and terminals

2: a week later heater core went out
b: replaced heater core

3: weeks later the shifting problem began to occur
c: replaced the nuetral safety switch

4: 2009-2010, shifting problem goes on for a year
d: running in limp mode

5: 3rd winter 2010, door locks quit working
e: try to diagnose, replace relay and switch on both doors

6: a week later the truck doesn't start right
f: replace starter, fender solenoid and starter wire (broken terminal and stripped wire)

7: Spring 2010, the horn has never worked and the airbag light flashes the 32 error. horn is hotwired to a switch below the dash.
g: replace clock spring and starter relay, remove hot wire horn switch, all work: horn, speed control, and airbag light goes out after start. no error 32 anymore.

8: a week later the horn and cruise quit working, but air bag is still functioning properly
h: i go back through everything that I did and get a clock spring from the yard and test it, still no change: though I purchased the first clock spring from Advance Auto and the 2nd to check was from a pull-a-part, they both could be bad because there is power to the horn switch. I am thinking that all of the functions are on the same ground.

9: summer I replace the vss and tps, does not fix the shifting problem, nor the does the vss trouble code 452 go away.

10: same summer 2010, I replace the PSOM through (easy way) replacing the entire cluster.
I: the shifting problem disappears and is smooth shifting at all the right points.

11: weeks later I am changing the plugs, wires, cap and rotor and the kids are playing in the truck while I am not paying attention.

12: a couple weeks later I notice the 4x4 flicker

13: Winter 2010: I am still messing with the 4x4, and after some digging decide to try to change out the ignition switch as I notice the key causes the 4x4 lights to flicker sometimes.
J: Replace ignition and the ignition electrical responds a little better than previously, as there was play in the switch, but still the 4x4 flicker returns. I did not replace the ignition switch clip, but I have now noticed that these get loose wiring in them over time as well. may I should replace the harness as well. any thoughts?

14: I am having problems with the flicker and my cab lights are working funny and turning the switch and the ignition on appears to have an affect on the 4x4 light flicker (causing them to flicker as I turn or pull out)
k: I remove the cluster panel and look at my main light switch. sure as anything the resistor wire has had a meltdown. I disconnect the battery and I replace the switch which fixes the lights, but the 4x4 flicker slowly comes back and is still affected slightly the light switch. So i do a little more digging on the forums and decide to replace the light switch harness. This seems to be a fairly common problem so I again disconnect the battery and replace the harness. This time the light switch no longer affects the 4x4 flicker but the flicker slowly comes back and is still affect by the ignition switch.

15: finally yesterday I replaced a Speedo and PSOM in my original cluster with one I got from the yard yesterday. Works great and only 85k miles on it. down side is my ECM 116 error code came back as that guarge needs replaced as well now. So I have to pull it back out one more time and replace it to get rid of the code and get a better reading, which is where my termp rarely ever fluctuates.

So here we are finally, left with a 4x4 problem. I can guess that my GEM or PCM could be having issues or I have some shorts somewhere. I just have absolutley no knowledge of these two items or how they work or if anything I explained sounds like they might be bad.


I checked all of the grounds that I could find off the battery. I assumed the coil should have a ground strap but no such luck. I checked the Alternator both no load and under load and tested out at 14.5 and 13.54, is there anything wrong with this?


Is it possible that the solenoid I installed does not have a resistor and in turn the coil residual power is backfeeding and frying out my electrical one piece at a time?



These are the problems I am left with:

1: Locks suddenly and completely quit working and don't work but have power at the switch

2: Horn and cruise control don't work but the air bag light appears to be functioning correctly.

3: The 4x4 lights flicker both on the dash and at the switch. This often doesn't allow me to switch to 4x4. The flicker will continue spontaneaously for a while (maybe weeks) until it quits working all-together, but the lights will flicker occasionally.

4: resetting the PCM by disconnecting the battery will allow the the truck to function normally for a while (4-5 times that I drive it) before beginning to fail again.

holy cow that is a mouthful. So any help from anyone that has had a problem or something similar to this would be greatly appreciated.

I understand that the PCM can get wet, but I have never found any evidence of this and am under the impression that it is a problem with the 97' and up. I have checked and checked my window seal but nothing. Something of note is that the window appears to be extra sealed around the drivers side and I do have a crack in the window starting midway of the window and continue midway down towards the passenger side ending at the passenger post. I still haven't found any moisture though. I am not totally ruling out moisture though.

Another suspicion is that when the heater core went a ton of anti-freeze got into the blower system or at least appears this way. I am wondering if steam didn't travel to the computer and possibly damage it in someway since the shifting occured shortly after ( within a week ) the core went bad.

Another suspicion is I drove it so long in limp mode that the PCM was damaged by bad input or improper voltage or something.

Obviously I gave a whole bunch of info, so maybe someone can piece together a possible theory.

A great thanx to anyone who has read this and can point me to some possible ideas. Thank You

 

ok I am starting to see how I could have a bad ground, shorted wires, or a bad controller unit for sure. This could send the intermittent flashing to my switch and the dash. I am wondering if it isn't loosing power then turning back on again from a short somewhere that is arcing when I have power draw from somewhere else. just speculation but the best bet is to get on the ground and start looking and I will post what I find, at least I will rule out what might be the obvious or a little less. Thanks Steve, you are the man as you have helped so many people, you totally rule :-)

 

so I have some more questions. I am guessing that the info for the 1993 Bronco is the same as the f150, and the 1356 BW ESOF is the same. Is ESOF an identifier for the transfer case instead of a module?

Is the transfer case primarily hydraulic with not electronics on the inside and engaged and operated by external electronics?

I get that the ESCM is located on the passenger kick panel and will definitely check that out as well as any wires underneath the truck that are attached to the transfer case (and any other wires I see). This question is: Is the motor position sensor located on the inside or outside of the transfer case? I am guessing it might be attached to the shift motor? I am just want to make sure I am seeing all of the electronics.

Obviously there has to be a short somewhere causing the lights to flicker. I have bee assuming this whole time that the light flicker was purely superficial, but now you got me thinking otherwise. I am also remembering a time when this flicker started happening and I was driving down the road that it felt like something big flew up under the truck (more like something engaged like the 4low but couldn't complete shift) and about stopped me in my tracks. I pulled over and looked and found nothing and everything still operates as it should when I am in 4wd.

Another question is do the front wheels lock on this vehicle when in 4wd and both spin or limited slip and one spins at a time? I was testing it in the sand at lake Erie the other day and I could identify the right side spinning, but wasn't sure if the left side is spinning.