So I just registered here! And here is my story...
So I am looking to buy a 93ish F-150 5.0 with a 5 speed, ex cab or single(depends on whats out here...) 4x4!
Reason for the 93ish is the look of the truck, along with it not having a carb (no diss, just better mpg! IMO)

Here is what I want really...

I want to start on the engine, and run as much NA power as possible while maintaining decent mpg...(well what i can that is)

So I was thinking:
-port and polish (anyone done this? what results?)
-shorty headers (better low end)
-true dual with ? mufflers (whats the best?)
-true CAI (again...whats a good one? K&N?)
-possible piston upgrade (slightly high Comp if possible)
-190 alt (running a sound system and KC lights)
-Big alum radiator
-Elec fans (2 i have heard?)

After that I am hoping to get at least 50 more hp/trq, sound doable?

Then lift, tires, rims, etc...but my questions are for the engine at the moment...if any one can point me in the direction I should be going it would help!
I have experiance, just not with anything that isn't running a turbo (track racer during college) And I have experience with gears, lifts, and such but (no one kill me here) with a toyota pickup...so I am guessing it will be a whole new ball game with the F-150!
Thanks in advance!

 

Come on! I know your looking!

Well I have come across these GT40x heads?
How good are these? Do they need a port and polish? Or are they good just to bolt on and go?

 

I am not sure what the high comp pistons will do as far as how much power increase, but unless they do quite a bit I think your 50+ hp/trq target seems a bit optimistic to me.

 

Just off the top of my head, a 190 amp alt. wont work unless you convert to an 8 ribbed serpentine. A 160 amp is the highest you can go on the stock 6 rib. If your going to be doing these heavy engine mods, it'd be better to start with a 94-96 F150 because they are MAF, not SD so they take to those kinds of engine mods much, much better. The only true CAI you can do is to modify the current intake box, all others are WAI (warm air intake) click the link in my sig "insulated air box" for an example of the moficiation I'm talking about.

 

Good to know thank you,
So I want a 94+, but cant you convert to a MAF on the earlier ones?
Good to know with the 160 amp, I had a 190 on another car and just picked that number or the top of my head...

As for it being optimistic, I have seen people take NA and push it up 50+ hp/trq easy. Just with head work, exhaust, intake, etc in a turbo car you can push an extra 70hp if you tune it right. And thats with stock turbo.

I think I can do it, My grandpa and I want to take this on.
He thinks with the GT40X head that I should go with a bigger TB, Any thoughts?

 

The TB will prolly be fine, they're already pretty big. The gt40x heads are good as well, just make sure you get headers to fit them because the spark plugs go in a different angle and it will interfere with the headers. The MAF conversion can be done, but its quite a bit of work. If you find the exact truck your looking for that doesn't have MAF, go ahead and get it, it wont be the end of the world. Whenever you do get it look into a 3g swap because its another type of alt. That starts out with 130 amps. The truck you get will have a 3g but it will most likely be 90 amp. Also if your going to be lifting it with look into a Saginaw swap, its a stronger, quieter power steering pump, its a direct bolt in from the E-series vans. If your going to be putting all this engine work it maybe worth your while to swap out ur injectors to explorer injectors, they still flow 19 lb per hour, but they have a better design. 4 holes to spray the gas instead of one...more power and better MPG. As far as the E-fans, look into the Taurus fans. I have 2 and love them. Sorry about any spelling or grammar problems, I'm on my cell phone...

 

With the injectors, they are direct swap? No modifications?
I haven't heard about that yet...be good to try and maintain mpg if possible.

Whats the best lift to go with to run 35x14.5R17 MT's?

Also which steering stabilizer do most go with after the lift?

Anyone swap radiators as well? I will be moving to southern tx and want to not worry about any over heating on the drive down, (I am gonna get a oil cooler, and different temp gauges if possible...)

 

The injectors are a direct swap, you don't have to do anything to the harness at all, just take the old ones out and put the new ones in.

Pretty much any steering stabilzer will be okay as long as it's not this style:
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=177794

35s will rub in some situations with a 4 inch lift, so the best would be a 6 inch. If you're lifting it that much, look into a solid axle swap hehe. They can get you 4-8 inches of lift depending on the set up and are much better for off-road. Don't get me wrong, you don't have to do an SAS for that kind of lift, but if you're going to be running bigger tires like that a stronger axle might not be a bad idea (considering that your beefing up the motor as well). In order to upgrade your axles, you'd need to do an SAS. I mean you can get the TTB off of an F250, but they're leaf sprung, and it's still a TTB, so you're basically replacing a turd with a bigger turd. Since you're gonna be running that big of a tire, I'm gonna mention the saginaw swap again, it's a direct bolt in from a E-series van that has the same motor as whatever truck you get. The Saginaw pump is stronger, more durable, and quieter than the stock one, and can be had for about $30.00 from a junkyard.

Also keep in mind, you are beefing up the motor to make it go faster, but what is just as important? Stopping. When you put those 35s on it the stock brakes are going to make you hate life. I cheap worth while upgrade is to swap F350 brakes on there, everything is bolt on except for the fron calipers. The master cylinder, the booster, and rear cylinders all go right on (I know, I've done it).

With the radiator, I would just get one for a F350 (7.5l 460) because it'll be more than enough to cool what you have, and it'll be yet another direct bolt in. I haven't done this one yet, but whenever my radiator decides to go, I will.

If you end up getting one with a 5.0 or a 5.8, theres quite a few little things you could\should do to make the motor\transmission last longer, click the links in my sig for some examples, I didn't build my truck for mudding, I built it to be useful\reliable\do more than it's supposed to, and it hasn't fallen short of my expectations at all (except for when my wife got it stuck in the ditch yesterday....). With the mods in my sig, I had over a ton in the bed of my truck (should have gotten a trailer, but time was short), and I drove cross country (Phoenix to Ava, MO...1400+ miles). Obviously I was getting pretty friendly with the skinny pedal, but it handled it all very, very well. On top of that, I still managed 15 MPG for the whole trip. Without a load, I average around 18MPG(I just drove 243 miles in about 12 gallons though...I haven't filled the tank back up so I don't know for sure), but as always, I'm not satisfied, I keep trying to get it better.

 

Thanks for the tip...
But an SAS is a little to much for me. I had have seen and helped on a toyota pickup and it was just a little to much $$!
The truck wouldn't really see much "off road", mabey some sand-but mostly just the snow and such when no one else can drive threw
Not bad on your 18 mpg though. I have heard that is the max with a 5.0 or 5.8!
booba-what did you do about the front calipers? Are the new brakes bigger? I would look into a possible 4 wheel disk brake conversion if possible...unless they come with it already...

 

Front are disc, the rears you could find an 8.8 from an E series van, not sure on the year, then you need 16" wheels though. I haven't personally done it, but I've heard of it being done.

 

There's brackets you can buy but they pricey for the rear. The calipers I have are still stock, I only changed the rear cylinders, because they were a direct bolt in, as the master cylinder and booster is. With those 3 upgrades the truck stops on a dime, even when hauling, stops and steers (Saginaw) better than most anything I've driven.

You can put Thunderbird (IIRC) calipers on the front,which have dual pistons, but you have to grind them down to fit even with a 16 inch wheel.

 

I was gonna run 17's personally, just incase.
What headers run the best with the GT40x heads? Gibson? Doug thorley?

Also, if I run a true dual, should I run a high flow cat or just straight pipe it to the muffler?

 

Hey!
I am back!
Sorry I was gone so long...havn't given up the dream!
Was near impossible to find a truck...but I think we have a winner.
94 F-150, 5.0, 5 speed, extra cab, short bed, 180K miles (wheew!)
Great looking truck, havn't seen anything wrong...yet. Going to look at it again tomarrow, then test drive sometime here in the next couple of days...

Any one can help with what to look out for?
Going to crawl under and inspect it, hoping to check the boots, brakes, leaks, etc...but dont know what else to look for(cant pop the hood, guy wont be around)

 

Check the the ball joints, radius arm bushings, and leaf spring bushings. Ball joints especially, they are a PITA to change on the ttb or costly if you take it to a mech. Also check operation of both fuel tanks. The rear tanks have been known to develop leaks. And last but not least, follow booba's advice. something tells me he's been around the blue oval a time or two.

 

Bikertrash3531 is dead on(thanks lol), Check the u joints and such, grab the drive shaft and see if there's and play in them. If you have a helper, climb under it and have the helper rock the truck forward and backwards(as long as the ebrake is off). Check to see if the drive shaft starts moving right as the truck does. Thatll tell you if there's any play in the pinion/ring gears. Check the tire wear too because that'll help give you an idea how the alignment is, which will help tell you how the suspension stuff is. Once you can get in the truck to test drive it, have a helper turn the wheel back and forth while your under the front end. Make sure that everything moves right as the steering wheel is turned. Basically, you just wanna check for play and/or dry rotted rubber wherever possible. Good luck!