Pre-1997 Models

New and starting a project! Help!

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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 12:35 PM
  #16  
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From: Pullman, Wa
Thanks!
Im on it...I never even thought of the ball joint.
Ill make sure to check and see, what should I be looking for? I never had to worry about them before so I wouldn't even know what to look for...lol

Im gonna check the shocks, leafs, etc on the truck. just because I think it has a lift and I want to make sure It was done right.

He is asking $3000 for the truck, but I am hoping he will drop to at least $2350 with higher miles. He has had the tranny rebuilt recently, but thats it. So I would go threw it and change some gaskets!
 
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 01:11 PM
  #17  
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Check the rear springs thoroughly. These trucks are know for cracked springs and rusted out shackles and hangers and so on.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 09:00 PM
  #18  
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From: Pullman, Wa
So I got out to see it, took me an hour one way but I made it!

Great looking truck, few dings here and there but nothing to crazy.
Has a touch of cancer above the wheels on the bed but I think it can be cut out and fixed without to much worry.

Only thing that I can find that is wrong is the seats are ripped up some and there seems to be a leak...but I am not sure what it is. Right behind the oil pan, I am guessing where the tranny hooks to the engine it seems to be leaking right at the connection. Is this where the rear main seal is?

If so, I know it is a cheap part...but can be a real PITA to replace...
Plus if it is then I can really knock down the price, get it mabey for $2k! Woo!
 
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 11:06 PM
  #19  
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If the leak is back there then its either a rear main seal it a leaky valve cover gasket. Next time you look at it try to see if you can see the leak at all from the top. If you really like the truck and it does have a leaky RMS, then use it as a talking point to get the price down. Then take the money you saved, buy some beer for a helper and change the RMS in a weekend.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 11:42 PM
  #20  
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From: Pullman, Wa
Originally Posted by booba5185
If the leak is back there then its either a rear main seal it a leaky valve cover gasket. Next time you look at it try to see if you can see the leak at all from the top. If you really like the truck and it does have a leaky RMS, then use it as a talking point to get the price down. Then take the money you saved, buy some beer for a helper and change the RMS in a weekend.
Haha Wish I could!
All my friends here are either to spoiled to get thier hands greased up, or dont know what the hell they are doing!

http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...truck001-1.jpg

http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...456/seal-1.jpg

http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...6/truck005.jpg

Here is the truck, the 2nd pic is where the leak is coming from...The 3rd is where the muffler is suppose to be...I would say that is a cherry bomb
 
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 11:47 PM
  #21  
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From: Pennsylvania
None of my friends never know what they are doing, but you always need someone to hand you tools or move a jack around and stuff like that.
That's definitely a glass pack, not necessarily a cherry bomb, and that truck is deff lifted too.
And that leak, check to see if it's red or black, mine leaks around there but it is the trans not the motor.
 

Last edited by russo2; Jun 23, 2011 at 11:49 PM.
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 01:06 AM
  #22  
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From: joplin, mo
Rear main leaks are very common in these trucks as well. I don't think I've owned a Ford period that didn't leak at the rear main. As far as repairing it, yes its definatly a PITA! You might as well pull the motor and freshen up all the seals and gaskets. With 180k a new timing set and oil pump would be wise too. Otoh I'd rather deal with a Ford with leaky seals than a bowtie with doors falling off.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 05:33 AM
  #23  
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Doesn't look too bad, that leak could be the tranny or the RMS, or even the valve covers. When my valve covers leaked it came out there. Lay on the ground and look up at the motor next time ur there and see if you can see oil coming from the bottom of the valve covers or down the back of the heads, valve covers are somewhat easy if u don't use the cork POS ones. Other than that just check the color like Russo said.

Where are you at anyways?
 
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 11:12 AM
  #24  
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From: Pullman, Wa
booba-I live in Pullman Wa, a bit away from everyone else.

I would have to say my biggest problem is lack of space to do any major work. I live in an apartment complex at the moment, (hoping to rent a duplex with a garage here in a couple weeks!) so anything other then changing the oil and such is harder for me to hide. Got in trouble the other day for doing that same thing on my fiance's ford taurus. I just laughed at the apartment manager...

I am going to ask the guy when the last time the belts were changed, along wit the oil pump as well. Need to make a list...woo fun!
 
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Old Jun 28, 2011 | 12:12 PM
  #25  
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From: Pullman, Wa
SO...!
Went and got ahold of the guy, looked at the truck...
Paid $90 for an inspection and compression check...
Left the paperwork for it in the truck...
Then called him only to find out that he wants $3500 for it because someone offered im $3400 for the truck...Even though is asking price was $3000.

I said no thanks, but good luck and hung up...woo!

So, my misson has changed a little bit...I have found a 93 Ford Bronco, has paperwork for an eninge rebuild 63K ago, has 207K total...But has the 351w engine in it.
My new question is can I do all the same work to this engine? From research it has showed me that it is basically the same engine...
Anyone?
 
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Old Jun 28, 2011 | 12:15 PM
  #26  
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Yup.
I don't think it will be mass air, but if you want to do anything serious to the motor mass air would be a good upgrade.
Motor is rebuilt, what about the trans?
 
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Old Jun 28, 2011 | 03:14 PM
  #27  
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I am not 100% on the tran but even if it isn't dont the auto's last forever?
If not...I was feeling a 5 speed swap from an F150...From my google search it has been done before, and when you swap the trans you should redo the ecu any way so I would just look for a 94 ecu and switch to MAF!
Win win?
 
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Old Jun 29, 2011 | 12:10 AM
  #28  
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No the autos don't last for ever. The E4OD in my dads 95 f250 **** the bed 3 times before he got rid of it, granted it was a beat up work truck.
With a 351 the f150 5 speed will bolt up, but won't last long if you horse it.
Yes you would have to redo the ECU or get the wiring harness from a f250 5 speed, in which case you might as well get the better zf5 speed from the 250.
I'm not familiar with MAF swaps but I know it's possible.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2011 | 12:21 AM
  #29  
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From: joplin, mo
As far as a trans would go, the f150 5spd is a m5od Mazda built unit. It won't last long behind the 351. Russo is right. As far as the engine differences the 351 has a different firing order than the 302. It sucks that the seller jacked up his price what an @$$! Otoh the removable top on the bronco makes for more fun during summer cruising. good luck.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2011 | 09:18 AM
  #30  
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Broncos are very similar to the F150s, and I want one, I REALLY want one. The 351 accepts the mods that I've posted in here with no problems, with the exception of MAF, that may be a little more complicated. Definately go with a ZF5 tranny if you can find it, they are waaaay stronger and better than the m50d. head over to www.fullsizebronco.com for more info, VERY helpful community over there. I learned a lot of what I know there.
 
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