OK. I know nothing about the TTB.

 

Classic response. Instead of letting us all know what you base your opinion off of, you completely avoiding the matter.

Whatever.

 

If you couldn't read the first page of this thread, why would I waste the time to retype it all for you NOT to read it again? Everyone else gets what I'm saying - only you seem to be missing it. Or are you just trolling?

Whatever with your whatever.

 

I don't see what's so hard to understand, the arms are only so long, when you get bigger coils\spacers\whatever its obviously going to push the truck farther away. Since the arms are only so long, it's going to pull the bottom inward, let alone what the radius arms do. Think of it like a triangle, the hypotenuse is the arm, the adjacent is from the far end of the arm to the top of the spring, and the opposite is the spring itself. When the opposite side (spring) gets bigger, every angle of the triangle changes (IE screws the alignment). Thats how I look at it, again, not even including the radius arms.

 

I reread all of your posts. You never say what you base anything off of. You just claim to "know what you know". Well, I base my advice on this subjecf from actual expirience. One who reads your posts and takes them as the truth on the matter would obviously think I was lying. So, tell me, how am I accomplishing the feat of leveling my TTB truck without a full kit, all the while having a great ride, good handling, and normal tire wear?

Those are actualy pretty decent illustrations of how the system works. What they don't show, however, is camber adjustment, either with stock or aftermarket cam bushings. Remeber, we are talking about 1.5-2 inches. Not throwing 6 inch springs under the front without a kit.

If any more reassurance is needed, I would point anyone to www.fullsizebronco.com and tell them to look around. Many more people with TTB trucks who have every setup under the sun.

 

My statements are based on my education & experience; yours are different. That doesn't make either of us liars, or prove either of us wrong. You say what you think - I'll say what I think.

Those diagrams are OVERsimplified, to the point of being extremely misleading about the geometry of the TIB/TTB. You can't understand what it does by looking at it from the front or the side since neither gives a relevant view of its motion. It's like trying to understand a system of helical gears by diagramming them from a random offset angle. You have to consider ONE side of the suspension from a view perpendicular to its axis of rotation, and that's NOT straight to either side, front or rear, top or bottom. The axis runs between the center of the radius arm bracket's hole (where the arm passes thru) & the center of the axle pivot bushing (midway between the frame holes). That's a significant angle from the side, so a side view won't clarify anything. Same for a front view. So the triangle to think about is the one with that axis as its rear edge, then its other 2 sides going from those points and meeting on the line between the ball joints at the spindle's axis (center of the U-joint for TTBs).

Once you have that triangle in your head, imagine the outboard corner (U-joint) moving up & down in 3D. It doesn't move straight up & down, and it doesn't move in an arc from the side view, or from a front view. When it moves up or down, it ALSO moves inboard & rearward.

Now imagine the one on the other side at the same time - it's like putting 2 LARGE overlapping dogears on a playing card (except you can't actually overlap them, so even that analog has problems) and then flapping them up & down (moving 3D).

Now, imagine how the inverted-Y steering linkage forward of the whole system interacts with both of the pivoting, angled steering knuckles - it gets REALLY complicated REALLY fast, and nothing in those diagrams accurately depicts any of it. (Caster isn't shown the right direction, or even spelled right; camber isn't shown right either, but that's just an aside.) And it doesn't even address scrub radius, Ackerman angle, or any of the other MYRIAD angles that affect TIB/TTB alignment, handling, steering response, & tire wear.

Of course, most alignment techs don't address those other angles either, because they can't be corrected, or because the guy is too lazy/underpaid to worry about them. I've worked with techs who only set toe on these axles, test-drive & adjust until the truck tracks straight, and then give it back to the customer, who rarely knows enough to perceive that it's still not truely aligned.

So it doesn't surprise me a bit that there are hundreds or thousands of TIB/TTB owners who mess with their suspensions and then feel like everything's great. Because it takes an EXPENSIVE alignment machine to read these angles in real-time so they can be checked/corrected. Can you learn to drive a truck with wonky alignment? Sure. Can you wheel it? Of course. Can you get a lot of miles out of the tires? Yes, if you rotate them frequently. Is that good enough for some people? Obviously so, and if you're one of them; fine - it's your truck. Does that mean it's a good idea that should be recommended to new owners? I don't think so, and I don't do it. I recommend getting a real engineered lift system that preserves those angles and makes the truck work the way it was designed to. It's safer for everyone, and cheaper for the owner in the long run.

 

...

 

Steve, not to uh threadjack myself or take away from your little 'duscussion'
but could you possibly tell me where i can get through the firewall at? I need to run a like 8g wire for an amp up to the battery. I'm at a loss for finding a hole to stick it in..hahahaha

 

Where the stock antenna wire goes through might work. If its an auto, there should be a plate near the master cylinder that you can drill through. I think its used to close off the hole where a clutch pedal would go through.

 

Well it's a stick so that is out.

 

I was able to run it along the passenger side down into the fender, and there was a rubber plug right underneath the carpet in the cab, I put it in there, I did have to spit on it first.

 

There are plenty of grommets all over the firewall that you can use to pass an amp wire. Just make sure the wire is FUSED near the battery, and that it can never rub against the sheet metal, and that water can't run into the cab along the wire.

 

Okay thanks again Steve.

 

What I got out of this is that everything must be lifted at once. So, with that being said, can I get a Leveling Coil in the front and Add a Leaf in the rear since they both lift it the same amount? Will that cause all the problems with wear like was said on the first page?

 

A LIFT SYSTEM will preserve all the factory angles. Piecing a lift together won't. The tires won't wear off in 100 miles, and it'll be driveable, but it won't be right.