1990 f150 5.0
#1
1990 f150 5.0
1990 Ford F150 5.0. My rpm's were 1400 to 1500 at idle then would drop to 700 to 800 about 30 seconds later. I changed the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. I had a light show under the hood from the plug wires. I put a second set of plug wires on, now there is no light show. I followed the firing order of 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. Counter clockwise on the dist. cap. Now after I did changed the plugs, wires, cap and rotor my rpm's are 900 to 1000. When I put it in gear the rpm's drop to 400 to 500. Can someone help me out please, and thank you in advance, Brian
#2
#3
#5
Hey guys, I cant thank you enough. I went down to the Mopar Nats this weekend. I just got the messages today Maonday the 16th. I took the truck in and the shop said I have a 5.8 block with a 5.0 plenum. I dont know if that is possible so maybe you guys could shed some light on this. Again guys your awesome. Have a great week, Brian
#7
Trending Topics
#9
Brian, your 1990 5.0 should cold start with a high idle at about 1400 rpms, hold for about 30 seconds and then drop back to 750 rpms no load. When you drop it in any gear, the IAC is suppose to compensate for the extra load and the idle should stay at 750 rpms. If you bought the truck used and it's had this problem, the previous owner may have turned up the throttle plates at the throttle body because the IAC isn't working. I'd suggest taking the throttle body off of the engine to clean it and make sure that the carbon is removed from the balance port just inside and behind the throttle plates. Make sure the port to the IAC is clean and clear. Remove the IAC from the TB and clean it. DO NOT use any throttle body cleaner on the TB while it's on the engine unless you want to destroy the plenum gaskets which will lead to a vacuum leak and a high idle. Reinstall it and then see what you have. You may have throttle plates that have carbon buildup on the back side giving the high idle and the IAC may be out of range due to the carbon. You won't know until you clean it but it must be removed from the engine to clean. If that doesn't work, look for a vacuum leak especially broken hoses. They're brittle and subject to break with their age. Look especially at the vacuum canister at the front left side of the truck. There is a plastic conversion piece that it subject to break in the hose. I'd also suspect the IAC is toast but clean it first as it may just be carboned up.
#10
Ok guys thank you again. Im going to type down here what my bill sayd word for word. The truck runs great after they did the work. Here is what the bill says
ANALYZE RUNNING ROUGH
CHECK FOUND FIRING ORDER
CORRECT FOR 302/5.0L V8 ENGINE
AND TDC OFF. INSPECTION-FOUND
ENGINE BLOCK IS A 351/5.8L.
CORRECT FIRING ORDER FOR
CORRECT ENGINE, RECHECK AND
ROAD TEST- NO OTHER PROBLEM
FOUND AT THIS TIME.
That is what the bill invoice says. The motor was replaced before I bought the truck. It ran awesome for the first 3 months. I had the problem I mention, took it in and it gone. I didnt know what else to do so I took it in. I dont like dealin gwith auto shops being some try to take you for your money. Thank you again guys. Have a great day
ANALYZE RUNNING ROUGH
CHECK FOUND FIRING ORDER
CORRECT FOR 302/5.0L V8 ENGINE
AND TDC OFF. INSPECTION-FOUND
ENGINE BLOCK IS A 351/5.8L.
CORRECT FIRING ORDER FOR
CORRECT ENGINE, RECHECK AND
ROAD TEST- NO OTHER PROBLEM
FOUND AT THIS TIME.
That is what the bill invoice says. The motor was replaced before I bought the truck. It ran awesome for the first 3 months. I had the problem I mention, took it in and it gone. I didnt know what else to do so I took it in. I dont like dealin gwith auto shops being some try to take you for your money. Thank you again guys. Have a great day
#11
#13
thank you again guys. The truck has been running good since I picked it up from the shop. I cant afford to take it in again to get it checked out any time soon. But once I get the cash I will. I want to keep this truck on the road as long as possible and dont need the parts bill. Im doing my best. Thank you all again.
#14