yes i have a scanner now, just scanned after having computer out for a day and then running the truck and driving for about a half hour. i come up with 114,335, 114, 335 long pause 1 long pause again then 111, 111

 

If it is cold out with the temperature below 50°F then just change out the DPFE sensor.

DTC 114 (IAT) indicates the sensor is out of Self-Test range. The correct range is 0.3 to 3.7 volts.

Possible causes:
-- Ambient temperature below 50°F (IAT).
-- Damaged harness connector.
-- Damaged sensor.

DTC 335 indicates the DPFE sensor is out of Self-Test range.

Possible causes:
-- Damaged DPFE sensor.
-- Obstructed pressure inlet hose(s).
-- Garage exhaust ventilation system affecting DPFE sensor operation.

NOTE:
DPFE system can sense a lack of pressure in the vehicle exhaust system. An efficient garage exhaust ventilation system that is installed during Key On Engine Off (KOEO) DTM may generate a DTC 335.

Remove garage forced ventilation system and properly vent to atmosphere.
Rerun KOEO Self-Test.

 

truck is out doors with nothing on the exhaust, what is the dpfe sensor, sorry guys probably a stupid question

 

Differential Pressure Feedback EGR (DPFE): An EGR system that monitors differential EGR pressure across a remote orifice to control EGR flow.

 

Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic EGR (DPFE) System


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o.k. computer out for a couple days (battery disconnected as well) replaced d.p.f.e. sensor fuel pressure 38 with key on, 49 when running. motor still acts like it's skipping (intermitently) and bucks when in drive only code now is 114 then it goes to 111

 

How cold was it out when you ran the self-test?

If above 50°F then you may need to also change out the IAT sensor.

If below 50°F then the 114 is not the problem.
You may then need to run 1/3 can of sea-foam through the brake booster hose when the engine is warm then let it set for 30 minutes after it dies.

If no help you might think about having someone do an on engine injector cleaning.
They do this by disabling the fuel pump and the fuel pressure regulator and running the engine on injector cleaner at about 45 PSI for a 4.9L and 35 PSI for an V-8 at the fuel manifold.
Then change the oil and filter.
I do not think putting anything in the fuel tank is going to do any good at this point.

 

Mine did something similar recheck firing order. Mine was setup by PO 12345678 and should have been 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 as you can see it was only running on 3 cyclinders drove me nuts until I actually sat down and looked closely. Ran smooth at Idle and WOT but bucked like I had a bad transmission under partial throttle or load. New plugs, wires, cap, rotor right firing order and it almost smokes the tires now.

 

o.k. drove the truck today (barely). it's cold and rainy it started idled rough for a couple seconds then smoothed out after it ran for about ten minutes i got in started driving and it got progressively harder to run,shaking trying to accelerate or maintain 30-35 mph put in low 2 and it was a little better. turn a corner and try to accelerate, almost no response. stop and try to go it took everything the truck had to get moving again. new codes are 114, 122, and 543, do i need a fuel pump

 

For the 543 you might want to replace the Fuel Pump Relay or check the O2 sensors wires for short to ground. You did not say if this code was KOEO or CM. The Fuel pump may also be starting to go bad.

For the 122 you did not say if the code was KOEO or CM so here is what both mean.

KOEO DTC 122 indicates the Throttle Position (TP) sensor signal is less than the Self-Test minimum value.

Possible causes:
-- TP sensor may not be seated properly (tightened down).
-- Damaged TP sensor.
-- Open harness.
-- Grounded harness.
-- Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

OR

CONTINUOUS MEMORY DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) 122: MONITOR TP CIRCUIT UNDER SIMULATED ROAD SHOCK

Enter Continuous Monitor Diagnostic Test Mode (DTM).
Connect VOM to STO or watch the CEL.
Observe VOM or CEL while performing the following:

-- Move throttle slowly to WOT position.
-- Release throttle slowly to closed position.
-- Lightly tap on TP sensor (simulating road shock).
-- Wiggle TP harness connector.

Is a fault indicated?

 

it was koeo on the test

 

I think I would change out the TP Sensor.

 

i put one in from auto-zone but the #'s didn't match exactly but they said it's the one it calls for. i'm still a little sceptical about it

 

Overdrive switch is bad or fuel pump is bad

 

Nice. This thread died over a year ago.