1991 f150 with AOD transmssion, works great in all gears except OD, shifts outta drive but will not go into OD, motor just revs up and if you romp on the gas hard enough it wll kick back into drive. Is the tranny shot or is there something that I'm not aware of like shift linkage adjustments, or is there any way to adjust the bands in that AOD transmission?

 

No band adjustment. The TV adjustment may be what is wrong.

Here is what the book says:

No 3-4 Upshift (Stays in Third Gear)

Possible Source(s):
Throttle linkage --misadjusted/bent/sticking.

Action(s) to Take:
Adjust throttle linkage. Service as required.

Possible Source(s):
Direct clutch circuit leakage--Perform Direct Clutch Pressure Test to confirm.

Action(s) to Take:
Check torque on valve body bolts. Tighten to 9-11 N-m (80-97 lb-in).
Check for nicks or porosity in the case passages. (Valve body to case mating surface). Replace case for the above.

Possible Source(s):
NOTE:
Burnt direct clutch plates will help to confirm leakage in the direct clutch circuit. Replacing only the plates and not finding the cause will result in a repeat service.

Action(s) to Take:
Direct clutch piston check ball leaking. Perform «check ball leakage procedure» ; found in cleaning and inspection portion. Replace piston if leakage confirmed.
Direct clutch piston seal rings (inner and outer) leaking. Replace.
Check the direct clutch output shaft seal rings (No. 5, No. 6). They should move freely on the output shaft. Check for metal shaving contamination or burrs between the seal and the output shaft. Replace as necessary.
Check the large seal rings on the output shaft for freedom of movement. Check for contamination such as metal shavings on the output shaft. Replace as necessary.
NOTE:
The four large seal rings are numbered 7, 8, 9 and 10. Seal rings 7 and 8 (closest to the output shaft hub) are for the direct clutch. Seal rings 9 and 10 (closest to the governor) are for the governor.
Inspect the output shaft feed passages and the cup plug for leakage.

Possible Source(s):
Valve body contamination/sticking valves.

Action(s) to Take:
Clean the valve body. Check for sticking valves as follows: Overdrive servo regulator valve; 3-4 shift valve; 3-4 TV modulator valve; orifice control valve. If any valves are sticking and they cannot be freed, replace valve body.

Possible Source(s):
Main control gasket distortion.

Action(s) to Take:
Check if main control gasket is blocking an orifice. Replace gasket.

Possible Source(s):
Case out-of-flat can cause sticking valve.

Action(s) to Take:
Reduce valve body bolt torque, tighten to minimum side of specification 9 N-m (80 lb-in).

Possible Source(s):
Governor leakage.

Action(s) to Take:
Check last two large seal rings on the output shaft (No. 9 and No. 10). They should move freely. Check for metal shaving contamination or burrs between the seal and output shaft. Replace as necessary.
Check the seal ring bore at the rear of case for scoring. Light scoring is permissible. Deep grooving indicates case wear. Replace case for deep grooving.
Check the governor to output shaft retaining ring to make sure it is properly seated on the output shaft. Service as necessary.
Check the fit of the governor counterweight on the output shaft. If the fit is sloppy, replace the counterweight.

 

Sounds like the trans is on its way out. Loss of OD is the first symptom.

 

When I've seen this,it means the trans is done.The TV linkage would affect all gears.

 

what is TV Linkage. My 1995 Ford F150 starts up fine and drives fine until its warmed up or something, but when its warmed up to normal i can be driving and all of a sudden it will start to slow down like i let off the gas and i try to accelerate and it still bogs. Then i hit it to the floor and it bucks and takes off like a bat outa hell. Replaced feul pump and filter, distributer cap rotor, wires plugs, coil. throttle position sensor. cleaned throttle body (302 motor). At a dead end

 

feul pressure is ok

 

Oh and when engine is cold, no problems at all. shifts into all gears fine idles fine smells fine.?????????

 

Maybe you have a bad PIP sensor.

 

some times goes into reverse, rev high then boom into rev. but feels like wheels are chalked.. only move about a foot. same with drive. ran approx. 10 miles in 2nd.. no problem or noises. this morn went into drive shifted into 2nd...went to stop, down shifted HARD. when started again, sounded like grinding metal in first . sopped put it in 2nd. went home and parked. does anyone know what I can try before I go to rebuild????

 

TOTALLY different transmission. Do you realize you posted in the pre-1997 truck forum in a thread that's been dead for 4 years?

 

Howdy and welcome, but completely wrong section and like GLC says, your 4R70w shares very little with the AOD mentioned in the thread from the dead you found.

Adrianspeeder