I ran the tests and everything looks good as far as the exhaust system. It checks out fine. Any other ideas?

 

You don't happen to have access to a breakout box, do you?

 

Unfortunately I don't. I'm not even sure what that is, but I keep reading posts with similar suggestions.

 

When doing diagnostics, you often need to read the voltage in different circuits under various conditions. Sometimes you can do this by disconnecting the harness, but other times the harness has to be connected for it to work. A breakout box (BOB) goes inbetween the harness and the ECM. It allows everything to be hooked up, yet has pins for each circuit that you can read the voltage from without disabling anything. This is where you're at with your code 31 & 32; the next step in diagnostics requires a BOB. You could also backprobe the specific wires if you know how to do that, but I don't know your skills.

Also, I feel like I walked in in the middle of this. lol. What's the story with your truck, and what are you trying to fix? Are you just trying to find some lost power, or has there been other issues? If you don't mind, give me a quick rundown so I can better help you.

 

Thanks for the effort. I really appreciate it as I am, at best, a shade tree mechanic. The problem(s) with my truck seem to be endless. I bought a '92 F150, 5.0, 5spd manual about a year ago with plans to fix it up and lift it 6". However, since I got it I've had a lot of engine problems that I haven't been able to get fixed. I'm not working on anything else until I get the drivetrain problems fixed. At times I've thought I had the problem under control, but then other problems or the same problem happens again. The primary issues are loss of power and really, really bad gas mileage, like 150 miles on an 18 gallon tank. I've had codes 31 and 32 alot, but then I'll replace a sensor or a vaccuum line and they go away. This is what I've replaced: Plugs, wires, dist. cap, PCV valve (twice), fan clutch, radiator, thermostat (twice), radiator cap, water pump, heater core, egr valve, egr position sensor, actuator that vaccum lines go to from egr, all the vaccuum lines, idle air control valve, ignition module, TPS sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter(twice),gas tank (was leaking) and the clutch master cylinder. There might be something else, but I can't think of it right now. Currently, my A/C compressor is going and when I cut it on, my battery guage flickers and sometimes cuts off but it cranks right up. The CEL with the 31 and 32 stopped coming on after I put the old EGR position sensor back on the other day, but my mileage is really bad and I still have poor acceleration and it feels like something is holding me back. I also took of the intake and throttle body and cleaned them both pretty good. I've run about 5 gallons of seafoam through the tank and through the brake booster hose. I finally took it to Ford, but it seemed like I knew more than they did about it so I didn't leave it. There you go. If you've got any advice, I'll try it. I'm getting desperate with this thing but I'm not giving up on it.

 

Wow. Okay, so if I'm understanding you correctly, right now the only complaint is lack of power and gas mileage, yes? It idles okay, and doesn't have an off-idle stumble, or anything like that? I'd like you to do something for me. Disconnect the negative battery cable, and then turn on the headlight switch for 30 seconds. Turn the headlight switch off, and reconnect the battery. Then drive it normally for a day, and then check for codes. It doesn't matter if the MIL (CEL) comes on or not, check for codes anyway.

Post your results.

 

Okay, I'll do it right now. Thanks, I really appreciate the help. -Al

 

Also, I pulled all of my carpet so I could get to the top of the transmission and line-x the cab, and I can hear a pretty loud rattle coming from what I think is the back of the engine. I couldn't hear it nearly as loud when I had the carpet in there. I assumed it was the PCV valve and replaced it again, but it's still there. It also could be the clutch release bearing going. It's the same kind of sound. The clutch seems okay though. I was thinking if it is the PCV, whatever is causing it to rattle might be the problem, but what the hell do I know. My solution has been just to replace parts and keep driving.

 

Will it make the rattling noise when parked, or only when driving? Does pushing the clutch pedal make it stop?

Just out of curiosity, what is the firing order you're using? Don't look in a book, look under your hood and follow each plug wire and write them down. I just want to make sure which firing order you're using.

 

It might be easier to do this via email. If you want to, you can reach me at: pkrwud@roadrunner.com