It's my father's truck with an automatic, 302 with EFI. It died on him at an intersection and he had it towed back to the house. We treid starting fluid in the intake to see if it was a fuel issue. No start. It cranks just fine but nothing as far as "catching" is concerned. I pulled off the coil wire to check for spark and found none during cranking. Replaced the coil and sill have the same issue. I did not replace the resister/solonoid adjacent to the coil. I'm not sure what it is and Advanced did not have the part. I'm not sure where to go from here. He's done little maintenance to it. He's the original owner and it has over 175 K on it. Any advice would be appreciated. I don't want to spend any more of his money chasing after what I think may be an issue.....

 

I started a thread on page two ("No power to fuel pump")with the exact same problem, read through that one the guys gave me alot of good info. For me it ended up being a bad fuel inertia cutoff switch

 

I would bet it's the ignition module on the side of the distributor. You need a special socket like tool to remove this. The module can be tested beings it has completely died. The module usually does just completely die, unlike the coil and PIP(inside the distributor) which usually will die and revive themselves, ie come back alive. You did the right tests, tests for spark and using starting fluid. Bottom line ignition module.

 

Okay. It's off to the old man's house today to do the tests. I'll follow up with a note about how it went. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

Where can you find the tool to remove the module? The access hole to remove the small bolts is too small to fit a socket.

The distributer is out and I'm ready to replace the module. Advanced Auto has it for less than $40. I hope I can knock it out tomorrow.

Thank you, again, for the help.

 

I bought the tool at NAPA many years ago. My local NAPA had it on hand then. Just check around at your local automotive jobbers. If none of them have it on hand, they should be able to get it the next day.

 

I finally installed the ignition module and the truck fired right up. Thanks for all the help. I found the tool at Auto Zone for $4. It turned out to be a 15 minute fix including pulling the distributor and re-installing it.

 

Normally you shouldn't have to pull the distributor to remove and replace the module, if you have the right tool. Pulling the distributor isn't a real big deal if you know how to reinstall it and have a timing light, but usually unnecessary. What is the brand and number of the tool you bought? I ask because I have 3 of these Fords that have this module that leave you completely stranded and I couldn't find the K-D brand socket like tool, that I bought years ago, on their website. I want to carry a tool and module in each vehicle.

 

It's made by OEM Industrial and the part # is 25013. It's two sided with the small socket on one side and a small torx fitting on the other. It's got a finger wheel to make taking the bolts and screws out easier. I bought it at Auto Zone and the three people working there didn't know they sold it. They were no help at all but I found it after a minute of looking in their special parts isle. The Advanced Auto Parts in our area did not carry the tool.

 

In my area Pep Boys also carries the tool, but I think only the one that has the socket side, not the torx. I'm not sure if this works on all models. Mine has the remote mounted ignition module, but they still manage to tuck it into the heat sink so tight you need the thin socket wheel type tool to get it out.

 

For anyone reading this thread on a search...

Anytime you've got a no start issue, it's one of three things: Air, Fuel or Spark. Easiest to check for Spark first, then follow that up with fuel. Usually an engine is getting air without problems!

Checking for Fuel and Spark will very quickly eliminate half of possibilities and/or suggest something more complex if it's both.

-Dave