Pre-1997 Models

Ignition switch issue?

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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 08:55 PM
  #16  
RaWarrior's Avatar
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From: Troy, NY
Glad to hear it's sorted out...key switches are surprisingly complicated.

You could have got it home though as long as the ignition would turn to ON...turn the key ON and jump the two big nuts on the starter relay next to the battery. Though if it was stuck in park it would lock the steering up on ya.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 11:24 PM
  #17  
roltech's Avatar
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Originally Posted by kybearsdad
I just went through that last weekend, you need steering wheel puller. The pot metal half horse shoe is the "ignition actuator arm" and the rod that goes down the column is the "ignition actuator rod". The "arm" has a guide on it that goes into a square slot in the column, when that guide breaks it falls down the slot past the notch in the arm and stops a column shift from being able to move, I had to tear apart my entire upper column to fish that tiny piece of pot metal out so I could shift. When the guide from the actuator arm breaks off your ignition actuator arm no longer moves straight forward pushing the actuator rod down the column to the switch and keep it in a run and idle position. It is not bad but you will have to break the column down to pulling the two pins for your tilt to make enough room to get the new actuator arm in. I know it's a bit late, but hope it helps in the future. The whole ordeal only took two hours of actual work time.
Brian
Thanks It's never too late! I have the very same problem! I removed the broken actuator by dropping the steering column down, I just have to get one, you mentioned that (but you will have to break the column down to pulling the two pins for your tilt to make enough room to get the new actuator arm in)! I see the two pins on the tilt w/ threads inside, but how do you get those off? is there a tool you thread in to pull these off?

roltech
 
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Old Jan 31, 2008 | 09:09 PM
  #18  
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From: Illinois
not too bad to get at

the hardest part of getting those pins out is finding a bolt to fit them, then they pull straight out, they are straight shafted (no flare) I couldn't find one laying around in the garage so I took an awl and tapped them out from the back side. keep an eye on the spring on the lower right side in the tilt, after I got the pin on the right out (I had to lower the column all the way down to get to the pin on the right) and ended up chasing down when I was ready to put it back together. aligning the wholes for the pins with one hand and trying to get them dropped back in with the other was pain. The other problem I found after I did all that was the wire harness at the end of the actuator rod had the tabs toward the steering wheel worn off and it was pushing away from the bracket and causing the ignition to shut off as well, I don't have the sack to try to tackle that just yet, so for now it's wire tied untill I go get a manual for the wiring so I can replace that harness, I'm not good with wiring, unless it's audio equiptment.
Brian
 
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Old Jan 31, 2008 | 09:11 PM
  #19  
kybearsdad's Avatar
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From: Illinois
forgot

The actuator arm cost me 11 bucks and some change at dust and son's auto supply, I'm sure they are about the same anywhere.
Brian
 
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Old Jan 31, 2008 | 09:16 PM
  #20  
kybearsdad's Avatar
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From: Illinois
I really need to proof read before I post

"(I had to lower the column all the way down to get to the pin on the right)" what I meant to say was lower the tilt all the way down. You might have better luck than me, I get frustrated easily with small parts.
Brian
 
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Old Feb 3, 2008 | 02:10 PM
  #21  
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Thanks for the info. I got the new part and will be installing soon thanks to you. I'm now waiting for the weather to warm up, the Van is still in the driveway where it broke down, the temperature was anywhere from -26c to -38c. Tooo cold to work on it. Now I'm sure about the pins I will be looking to get a screw for it, again Thanks for the info kybearsdad.

roltech
 
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