96 F150 just clicks
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Joined: Oct 2005
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96 F150 just clicks
Hi,
I have an intermittent problem when I try to start my f150 ('96) truck. When I turn the key to start the engine, 50 percent of the time now I just get a clicking noise, and it does not turn over. I'm not a mechanic. Could not tell you where exactly the noise comes from.
I had the problem a year or so ago. Changed the serpentine belt. The problem seemed to gradually go away.
About 4 months ago the problem started again. I haven't driven the truck for most of the winter. Based on what I have read here, it seems that the problem could be related to a number of areas, ie, cable connecting to positive post, starter itself, or selenoid. (But I understand that the selenoid is healthy because it clicks). I've tried wiggling cables, dis/reconnecting cables, and voodoo, but can't seem to resolve it.
Eventually it does start. It is just a pain running out to the truck after work or during a rain, based on murphy's law of course, that the problem will happen.
One thing that seems to allow it to start is when I turn the key over, wait until all of the internal lights, indicators, etc, have power then try to turn it over. When I do this, it starts right away about 70 percent of the time.
Any ideas for this weekend mechanic will be appreciated. Thanks,
Rob
I have an intermittent problem when I try to start my f150 ('96) truck. When I turn the key to start the engine, 50 percent of the time now I just get a clicking noise, and it does not turn over. I'm not a mechanic. Could not tell you where exactly the noise comes from.
I had the problem a year or so ago. Changed the serpentine belt. The problem seemed to gradually go away.
About 4 months ago the problem started again. I haven't driven the truck for most of the winter. Based on what I have read here, it seems that the problem could be related to a number of areas, ie, cable connecting to positive post, starter itself, or selenoid. (But I understand that the selenoid is healthy because it clicks). I've tried wiggling cables, dis/reconnecting cables, and voodoo, but can't seem to resolve it.
Eventually it does start. It is just a pain running out to the truck after work or during a rain, based on murphy's law of course, that the problem will happen.
One thing that seems to allow it to start is when I turn the key over, wait until all of the internal lights, indicators, etc, have power then try to turn it over. When I do this, it starts right away about 70 percent of the time.
Any ideas for this weekend mechanic will be appreciated. Thanks,
Rob
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Joined: May 1999
Posts: 2,477
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From: Copley, Ohio
The ground cable on these trucks tends to corrode out at the intermediate ground on the chassis. Take a look to see if yours is rotted through there.
If it is you can either replace it with another (very expensive dealer only) cable which will rot out in another 2 years or you cansolve the problem permanently for half the money at AutoZoo. Get 2 cables. The first has a battery clamp on one end and is the same overall length as the existing cable. The second has a bolt eye on each end and is the same length as the existing cable from the intermediate ground lug to the end.
Attach the long cable to the battery negative and to the block ground at the starter flange. Run the short cable from the same block ground up to where the intermediate lug used to ground on the chassis. It won't rot out again. It would have cost Ford about $2 per vehicle to do it right in the first place.
If it is you can either replace it with another (very expensive dealer only) cable which will rot out in another 2 years or you cansolve the problem permanently for half the money at AutoZoo. Get 2 cables. The first has a battery clamp on one end and is the same overall length as the existing cable. The second has a bolt eye on each end and is the same length as the existing cable from the intermediate ground lug to the end.
Attach the long cable to the battery negative and to the block ground at the starter flange. Run the short cable from the same block ground up to where the intermediate lug used to ground on the chassis. It won't rot out again. It would have cost Ford about $2 per vehicle to do it right in the first place.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 335
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There should be a wire with a spade terminal on it going to your starter. Had the same problem, the spade terminal gets corroded very easily. The new starter had a sealed bullet connector on it, so apparently Ford was aware of the corrosion problem and changed the connector.