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Is my 1995 F-150 Standard Cab SB 4x2 worth repairing?

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Old 11-21-2005, 06:02 PM
Erie Buoy's Avatar
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Is my 1995 F-150 Standard Cab SB 4x2 worth repairing?

I just took my 1995 F-150 Standard Cab SB 4x2 into the mechanic for the PA inspection. The dreaded results are that the ball joints need to be repaired and the oil pan is almost rusted through. Total bill is $1700 for this and some other more minor things. The oil pan R&R is a real doosey requiring the engine to be lifted . . .

The truck is in good shape otherwise with 152k miles. I just put $800 into brakes, shocks, etc. and new rubber only 1500 miles ago (July 2005). This used to be a main form of transportation, but now is for firewood and utility -- probably only 5000 to 8000 miles a year. It has a plastic bedliner and Leer fiberglass cap. I've had it for 8 years.

What say ye? Should I cut and run on this old standby or is it worth putting more money into? Any opinions or thoughts would be great as I'm quite conflicted . . .
 
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Old 11-21-2005, 07:26 PM
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For 1700 bucks.......I'd have to say your getting more than the engine lifted!

Myself, I would be pulling the upper intake off loosen the motor mounts, and anything else, and jack that engine up. An oil pan can be had for 125.00 or so. As for the ball joints..........I've never did them myself. I got a 91 Bronco (138k) and always used Slick 50 grease on them and still holding strong. I can twist a wrench or two so tearing down an assembly is kind of easy for me. Just yanked my engine, and rebuilt that. Never did one before, and it wasn't that hard. Just do your research, and it sounds like you can take your time because its not a daily beater. My guess is you can probably keep 1200 in your pocket. Haynes is also a big help.

Later,
Ford393
 
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Old 11-21-2005, 07:54 PM
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on my 96 i had the upper and lower ball joints done for like 350, i think that you gotta figure out if you think it is worth it to you to fix it
if mine needed work like that i would fix it , mostly b/c it took me over a year to get it looking the wat i want it to look, brush guard, pipes, light bar etc. etc. + i like the looks of that year and love the short truck
 
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Old 11-21-2005, 11:14 PM
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aight....first off, get the ball joints done by someone who does it for a living (and you can yell if it dont comeout right) then for the oil pan, all need it an engine hoist (tree+rope ) , 6-pack, and a buddy, gently lift up engine 12 inches and with a little pb blaster and a facefull of oil, its off ( on a truck that old that aint used alot, buy a junkyard part) then bolt up the new one, put everything back together and its so easy, a mechanic could do it!
 
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Old 11-22-2005, 12:00 AM
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Thats a lot of money to put into it but what kind of shape is the rest of it in? Are the brake lines and gas tank really rotted? Check the rear leak spring frame brackets too because they like to rust through and break. If the rest of the truck is still decent i would say spend the money on it. Make sure you get a new oil pan, they were stamped out of bad steel so a junkyard part won't last very long compared to a new replacement part. The ball joints aren't hard to do but you may need a torch to heat things up if it is rusted and seized.

-Jon
 
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Old 12-01-2005, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Ford4ever
Thats a lot of money to put into it but what kind of shape is the rest of it in? Are the brake lines and gas tank really rotted? Check the rear leak spring frame brackets too because they like to rust through and break. If the rest of the truck is still decent i would say spend the money on it. Make sure you get a new oil pan, they were stamped out of bad steel so a junkyard part won't last very long compared to a new replacement part. The ball joints aren't hard to do but you may need a torch to heat things up if it is rusted and seized.

-Jon
yes a torch will get the ball joints out but dont heat it up too much or you may warp the truck. this happened on a buddys 86 ram. a month later his lower ball joint almost came all the way out. be careful. but its your choice.
 
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Old 12-12-2005, 03:27 PM
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Well, I feel your pain. I just dropped about $925 in a full set of ball joints on my 88 XLT 4x4. And yes, the thought of putting an anti-tank round through the windscreen and putting Stitch out of my misery crossed my mind. But, I look at it like this... everything breaks at some point. Mine were probably the original, and lasted over a quarter-million miles (I'm guesstimating on the mileage, since I bought her used with a load of miles already). Now that it's done, I'm not going to have to do it again (I hope(, and I don't have to worry about spreading my front end all over the interstate.
From what I've seen, the oil pan is a basic in and out job... just getting past that lower support is the trick, and without a hoist it could make life miserable. Anywho, all I can say is go with your gut. If you feel it's worth it, then we have the technology. We can rebuild it. If not...
 



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