I'm the original owner of my '88 jewel. She now has 197,048 miles traveled. One time repairs have included the starter, brakes, muffler system, radiator, thermostat, and modulator. That's it.

Engine oil and filter replacements have been regular of course.

I've allowed a number of things to remain failed. They are in order of their failure as best I remember them, the float in the primary fuel tank @30,000 miles, the float in the reserve (causing the gauge to indicate an overfull tank when there is more than a quarter tank of fuel and reads accurately when less), the driver power window and then the other, the air conditioning system, the radio, the heater core (I think), and the blower motor. The paint has been a problem for years. There's chipping in the midbody accent color.

OK. Here's my problem. The vehicle will act like it's starving for fuel occasionally. I haven't yet been able to convince myself of the problem or solution. I need to add oil on a regular basis apparently due to the rear main seal. I don't think the stall is oil related though. I'm more inclined to think it's the fuel. When hot, the engine will not turn over.

The check engine light coincides with the faltering of the engine's performance it seems though the light is intermittent. The stall has occurred at different engine temperatures.

What do I need to do to keep her on the road?

 

Buy a tow vehicle.













Sorry, I couldn't pass that one up.

 

Sounds like it could be vapor lock to me. Some info on it...

Vapor lock is the result of high altitude, high temperatures or a combination on your car's engine. Vapor lock can occur at any altitude due to heat, but it is more common at higher altitudes, because gas at high altitudes vaporizes at a lower temperature. The resulting gas/air mixture can slow down or even stop the flow of gas to the engine, especially if your car is not designed for high altitude travel.

The key symptoms that your car is suffering from vapor lock is a loss of engine power, a rough running engine, and/or a engine that will not start. To reduce the chance of vapor lock, avoid running the air conditioner, and at the first signs of power loss, shift your car into neutral and rev up the engine. Finally, be sure to shift to low gear when climbing.

If your engine won't start due to vapor lock, here are a few good tips you may want to try to get it started:

*First, loosen the gas cap. Be sure to stand back when doing this because gas may spray out at you.
*Second, remove the air cleaner cover and hold open the choke flutter valve in the carburetor with a object, like a screwdriver. Be careful - backfires can occur.
*Third, start the engine, holding the gas pedal all the way to the floor - do not pump the gas.
*Fourth, wrap a wet cloth or cloth with ice around the metal fuel line near the carburetor (trace fuel line to make certain it goes to the carburetor).
*Finally, let the motor cool at least 30 minutes before trying to start the car.

Try this a few times, but don't over do it or you'll kill your battery.

So - in summary,
Cause: The engine overheats, causing the fuel line, fuel pump and carburetor to heat up.

Result: Excess vaporization of fuel in the carburetor and/or actual vapor lock in the fuel line or fuel pump.

This is a possible problem, but I'm sorry I can't help with a solution. We've had vehicles with this issue before but truthfully I can't remember what my husband did to fix it. Maybe someone else would have some ideas. Good luck

 

Thanks for your interest in helping me out wild-mtn-rose. I've had an additional symptom develop since my initial post.

Other than acquiring a tow vehicle, I regard the quality of engineering of this Ford product to allow for a significantly longer life. With it paid off for fourteen years is very gratifying. This isn't a dog I'm ready to put down. It just needs a shot of penicillin.

The truck has fuel injection, so is the vapor lock problem still possible? I have in the past replaced the fuel filter on a couple of occasions. Interestingly, in years past, I remember that the fuel injector manifold had felt very hot, yet in recent years is has as I would expect, felt relatively cool to the touch.

The most recent symptom is that while stopped at a traffic light minutes from start up, the engine revved excessively forcing the vehicle forward without heavy pressure on the brakes. There were several of these increases in rpms before the engine stalled. It still relatively cool allowed for an immediate start up with no further problems the rest of the 30 mile trip.

I've gone to my shop manual and found if vaporization of the fuel is the problem, are we possibly dealing with the vacuum modulator as the culprit? Without more assurance of this as the problem, I will forgo this work myself.

Do you have any additional thoughts?

By the way, the modulator I've replaced was the TP modulator.

 

once RP shows up he will prolly move this to pre 97 or the engine forum and i'm sure you will get a lot more helpful info.
how long ago did you replace the fuel filter or service the trans.

 

fuel filter or fuel pump is what im thinking. If your getting electrical power and a constant air supply, thinking it could be a fuel problem. Also if you havnt changed your tranny fluid/filter/magnet within the last 40,000 miles or so, thats reccomeneded, however if youve never replaced the tranny in 197,xxx miles, i take it that its been serviced.
Could be a bad plug or plug wire.

What type of Ford exactly is it? What motor?

 

no crank when hot....starter

the high idle, sound like throttle position sensor, or IAC .

you need to check the fuel pressure, to check regulator,filter, pump or bad injector.

you can get the codes using a paperclip in the EEC test port, look it up on the web using yahoo.It makes the check engine light flash the codes.

judging by the miles, I'll say you have the 300ci 6 banger 4.9 correct?

 

Most likely not vapor lock then, it is almost impossible for a fuel injected engine to vapor lock. I'd look at replacing the fuel filter again. Or possibly the fuel pump. How long has it been since you've replaced the filter? You could have gotten some particularly dirty gas and its clogged it. Or your fuel pump has weakened and needs replacing.

 

Try these things:

If it does at idle:
1. IAC (the valve that sits on the throttle body)

If it does while cruising or accelerating:
1. fuel filter
2. EGR position sensor (EPS)
3. throttle position sensor (TPS)

 

Well, she'd been on the road until yesterday.

Lees, maybe the newbies can learn something from this even if we're not in the appropriate forum. I'm willing to make the sacrifice. Counting on people like you for expertise.

I've never serviced the trans. I had been told by a respected friend that I should do the unorthodox. While that was ten years ago, I stuck to the message. I last replaced the fuel filter about 10 months ago.

Green, She's a 302EFI V8. I haven't replaced anything related to the tranny. It's original at 198,800 miles. I had to top it off last year with a half quart. It smelled fine. I replaced the spark plugs and wires late last year (third time). With the cold winter approaching, the ignition key will be difficult to turn.

Jstang, Can you be more specific about the EEC test port and how to use it?

WMR, I've been ready to replace the fuel pump (in one of the the tanks, along the frame?), but have been trumped by Wally. After a tire change yesterday, the brakes are a major concern. I've put about 40 ounces of fluid into the resevoir, but its thirst still isn't satisfied. When pressing on the break peddle, which has no resistance, it sounds like fluid under pressure going into the "frisbee" behind the dashboard lights. I haven't been able to find a leak. What's up with this?

 

If it stalls after the engine is hot and won't start or won't start when cold at times, I'd say it's the TFI-IV ignition control module.
It's mounted on the side of the distributor and you'll need a special tool to remove it.
I have the same year 88 F150 and this fixed the problem you discribed also this is a know problem and recall with Ford.

 

ICM does not need a special tool, just a narrow shaft 5.5 mm socket and it comes right off, don't even need to take the distributor off, if you can fit a socket in there. I just replaced mine tonight, with no avail. grr.

 

Mfortney, Did you do the work yourself? I received a dozen letters more or less from Ford on a recall, but chose to forgo the repair. They might have been for this issue. It was 6-8 years ago that I was receiving the notification of recall. I'd like the dealership to give me the part to install myself. Any chance of that happening do you think? The longevity of my vehicle I attribute in part to it out of the hands of mischief. I've currently got a break problem "immediately" following a tire replacement. I intend on identifying the location of the break fluid leak Monday. Does your '88 F150 have the cruise control option? Any problems with it?

 

The brake fluid leak is half way to the left rear wheel. Any recommendations? It's a gusher. There must be a joint there.

 

Unlikely that there are any joints there, the lines typically rust out along the frame and across the back axle, if you've never replaced any of them it would probably be a good idea to change them all from the distibution block on back. Usually once you fix one the others will start to blow.