Anyone have any experience with replacing a FP on a 96 I-6. I have diagnosed my hard hot start problem as the front fuel pump because when I switch to the rear tank it starts right up - no driveaility probs etc. . . Today, while trying to burn off some of the 15 gals in the front tank my check engine light came on. Now for my compound question: I have about 12gals of fuel left. Should I try to burn all of this fuel out, should I pump it out? Or can I leave 10 gals in there and attempt to heft the tank around (I know it will be heavy). I'm afraid to run on the front tank thinking that the light came on because of insufficient fuel pressure and I don't want to lean the motor out? Also, can the Advance Auto store, who says they can read the codes from my ECM reset my check enging light? BTW what is the name of my type of ECM so I don't look silly when I go to the parts store. Thanks in advance. Also, any opinions about aftermarket fuel pumps here in the Big O the AM is about $75 bucks cheaper?

 

Save yourself the hassle of hefting the fuel and pump it out. I siphoned it out of my rear tank (that was leaking) and put it in the front. Some excess went into the wifes car and I left the gas can full for the mowers.

You can clear the PCM codes by simply disconnecting the battery.

As for pump types, I can't help you there.

One thing I would recommend is having a good line tool for the fittings. On my tank one fitting wouldn't budge, even after trying a couple different kinds of tools. I picked up one made by Performance Tool from Pep Boys and it popped off the first time. I have pics in my gallery. I've seen another tool that is hinged in the middle and offers 360 degree coverage of the line that should work just as well.

Not a bad job, just takes a bit of time.

 

Signmaster - Thanks for the advice. I tried unhooking the battery tonight and couldn't get the CE light ot go off. Also, what kind of widget do you use to attach to the schraeder valve to relieve the pressure - or is that a concern? How do I find your gallery? Thanks, Lance

 

I failed to think that your truck is a '96 and OBDII. It might take a tool to clear the code. Hopefully Pkrwud or another OBDII guy will chime in and correct me on this.

As for the fuel pressure I never bothered when replacing fuel filters. Just wear some eye protection and keep your mouth closed just in case, though I've never had it be nearly that bad. Only a small dribble of fuel usually comes out.

You can see the line tool pics here..

Gallery Line Tool Pics

 

Hi. I have a 1996 F-150 5.0L. There is a fuel pressure guage with a clear hose on it. Somehow, you hook it up to the Schraeder valve and the fuel flows out of the hose into a glass/cup I suppose. Check at an auto parts store. Do yourself a big favor and buy a Ford service CD or DVD off eBay. It mentions the correct procedure for releasing fuel pressure, etc. I know the little guage and hose thing is what it says to use.

I haven't got around to changing my fuel filter, but I did buy a little fuel tool from O'Reilley's for around $8.

I have SOME code on my truck. Whenever I disconnect the negative battery terminla for a while, the light does not come back on until after a few minutes driving.

Mine is OBD-II. Somehow, no codes will show at the Auto Zone free code test. When I went in, they just asked me what year/make/model it was. I didn't have to know OBD-II

Gas is around 7.5 pounds per gallon. Surely a little hand operated siphon pump isn't much money.

 

Easiest - fastest way that I've found to relieve the fuel pressure is to idle the engine and pop the safety inertia switch button up. This shuts off the electric fuel pump and the engine will run out of gas in a few minutes. Holding down the release button on the fuel prs. test guage takes longer and gets old after just 1 time...

 

I can't remember what the Ford Service CD said to do. I want to say it is both the switch and hook the guage with hose up to the Schraeder valve.

 

If the vehicle sits for a few hours the fuel pressure usually goes away anyway. I'd siphon the gas too...I dropped my rear tank to install a new pump+sender last weekend about died as the thing nearly smashed my brother and I. That thing was pretty much full to my dismay.

My bolts that held the tank in place were rusty as a ***** too. I hosed them down with PB and still had to wedge a combo wrench against the frame and get out the air tools. I will be going back with stainless Grade 5 or 8 bolts with antiseize in case the tank has to come down again.

Just think about the install before you do it.

Good luck!

 

I did mine and just about had a hernia getting the two bolts that hole the center tank in. Long (2 hour story) story short I resorted to an air cut off tool because the damned things were so rusted! I did replace them with grade 8 bolts though. All that worry about pressure was all for nought because, as I suspected, after sitting all night there is no pressure to worry about/ bleed off. The bizarre thing for me, though, is that I had a friend from work come over to help me out and I swore to him that I had nearly run the front tank dry. Well, much to my chagrin, immediately upon yanking the old pump we realized that there was over a half tank (appx 11 gals) of gas remaining?!?!? I don't know what the deal is with these tanks; but that might help explain my attrocious gas mileage with this truck. The fuel from the rear tank has to be somehow be transferring to the front tank? I don't know, but I do know the gauge on the front tank read empty and I "found" $20 worth of gas . . . go figure! Real world Omaha rusty bolts and all this was a 6 hour job!!