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Changing the Fuel Injectors on a 94 with the 300 Inline 6...

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Old Aug 18, 2003 | 10:36 AM
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Changing the Fuel Injectors on a 94 with the 300 Inline 6...

Hi Gang,
Has anyone done this? Experiences? I think this is the root of my problem. i have Leaky Injectors. Not sure how tough this will be to do, but I am willing to try anything to get her running good again.

Wes
 
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Old Aug 18, 2003 | 10:57 AM
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I've been meaning to do mine also. According to PKRWUD I could have it done by lunch time so I doubt it's very hard, look's pretty straight forward. Remove the upper manifold and fuel rail and maybe a few vacuum lines?
 

Last edited by SPROCKET_X; Aug 18, 2003 at 11:08 AM.
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Old Aug 18, 2003 | 11:24 AM
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The only problem, other than getting at the upper to lower manifold mounting studs from underneath, is the *&^%$#$ EGR tube, which has to come off to pull the upper. It's a *****'s nightmare to get at and the fittings will be unwilling to budge. Use lots of penetrating oil and let it sit overnight. Once you get it loose, the rest is a 2 hour job.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2003 | 02:33 AM
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I've got the whole job down to 40 minutes, start to finish, with a coffee break.

You need to remove:

The negative battery cable from the battery.

A bolt and a nut that hold the smog pump divertor valve, and two vacuum lines, and the upper hose going to it.

The air intake tubes.

The vacuum line from the EGR.

Loosen the EGR tube nut at the EGR valve and slide it back. The tube doesn't need to be touched.

Pull the PCV valve.

Disconnect the vacuum hoses at the vacuum tree, and the two breather hoses at the throttle body.

Unplug the wires going to the ECT, the EGR, the IAC, the TPS, and the breather solenoid.

Remove the nuts from the studs holding the upper to the lower. This is much easier if you have a tire step, which, BTW, was the best tool investment I've made in 10 years.

There will be a ground wire attached to one of the studs, don't forget it when you reassemble.

There is one last bolt. There's a bracket that supports the upper from the throttle body side, right above the distributor. Remove the upper bolt.

Carefully lift the upper off, and set is aside.

With an 8mm open end, remove the 3 little bolts that hold the fuel rail in place.

Release the fuel pressure at the schraeder valve.

Pull the rail back far enough to remove the injectors, and make sure you get the o-rings that may have come off.

Reassemble in reverse order.
 

Last edited by PKRWUD; Aug 19, 2003 at 02:35 AM.
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Old Aug 19, 2003 | 07:59 AM
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PKRWUD, what exactly is a tire step tool? I ask because I'm gonna replace my upper and lower eventually and if you got a tool that makes workin on my truck any easier I WANT ONE
BTW, where can I get one
 
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Old Aug 19, 2003 | 08:25 AM
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Originally posted by ccnseven
PKRWUD, what exactly is a tire step tool? I ask because I'm gonna replace my upper and lower eventually and if you got a tool that makes workin on my truck any easier I WANT ONE
BTW, where can I get one




I'm almost embarrassed to admit it, but I bought mine at Harbor Freight, on sale for $14.99 (normally sells for $19.99). I must tell you again, it was the single best investment I have made when it comes to tools in at least ten years. It says it supports 300 pounds, but I weigh 240, and it doesn't even creak when I get on it. I'll bet it would support 400 pounds. It's fully adjustable, for height and tire width, and it disassembles in seconds for easy storage.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=32044

Take care,
~Chris
 
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Old Aug 19, 2003 | 08:29 AM
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I almost forgot, add to the list of items that need to be removed: disconnect the throttle linkage.



Take care,
~Chris
 
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Old Aug 19, 2003 | 11:20 AM
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Thanks for the link, just ordered one, tired of standing on a bucket, which slips around when you lean over
That looks like it would be perfect
 
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Old Aug 19, 2003 | 08:34 PM
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You're gonna be sooooooooooooooooo happy the next time you do any work under the hood.
 
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