Hey dudes, just got a Supercrew a few days ago. I am wanting to SFA it. Has anyone else on this site done that? I already have the drivetrain via D44 HD/14FF/208 out of a SFA Chevy. Let me know what you guys think. I may just sell that all and go with a RC 44 out of like a 78 F150/250.
Oh, and hello to all.

 

What do you mean?

Welcome to the board though!

 

I'm not real sure about the compatibility between the engine/tranny/tacse. In order to run those chevy axles you gotta run the chevy Tcase so you can get the PS drop since ford runs a DS drop. I'd just skip running the chevy drivetrain and go for the 78/79 F150/bronco route. Its easy enough to find one of those complete chasis around here for cheap. You don't have to touch your tranny/tcase at all so its that much less work. All you have to do is get the axles put under the truck. Just try and find a complete chasis and you can use almost all the parts off it. Grab the radius arms, radius arm mounts (need to do some bracing, but they work pretty well), all the steering, trac bar, and the coil buckets. Run either some 3.5" or 5.5" Wildhorses Rockcrawler VR coils and wrist the front arm and you'll have some hellacious flex. Then swap in the 9" to the rear so you get the same bolt pattern, and there ya go. Depending on mechanical aptitude this could be done in a weekend. The best thing about the F150 axles is that they're reverse cut (hell of alot better on the front than standard cut), disc brakes, and DS drop. Those reasons are why I'm getting 79 F150 D44 and 9" for use in my Ranger. When my 2.3L blows up and I go to a 302 I don't wanna have to worry about stripping out ring gears in a standard cut axle.

 

If your goin to all the trouble go ahead and look for an f250/f350 and swap in a dana 60 so you'll never have to worry about breakin anything.Some might consider it overkill but your rig is a little heavier than a regular 1/2 ton and I would only want to do that once ya know? Good luck!

 

Good idea, but still has its problems. A good D60 is gonna be expensive. I'm talking one out of a 78/79 F350 or F250 with the snow fighter package. They got a king pin, disc brake, DS drop, reverse cut, and long short side. This is the idea D60 axle. Only problem, expect to pay upwards of $1500 for this axle, then plan on rebuilding it and then gearing and locking it. You can easily have $2000 or more in the front axle alone. A rear D60 or 10.25 are easy to come across for $200, then rebuild them too. Pretty much most any axle you get will have to be rebuilt, regeared, and locked, but the D60 will be alot more expensive to do this than a D44 and 9". Bottom line you can get a D44 and 9" built alot cheaper than a D60 and they will hold up to 35s without breaking, but if you're locked be sparing with the skinny pedal. Keep in mind that the D44 and 9" are buildable to the strength of a D60. Get some alloy shafts (preferably Warn for their warranty) and some CTM joints (again for strength and warranty) and then some full time drive slugs and you've got an axle as strong as a D60. You could easily hold up to a 38+ tire on this axle, and if you ever break a shaft Warn will replace the shaft for free, and if you break a CTM they will replace the joint and any other part that gets broken due to the joint letting lose. So you'll never have to buy another part for that front axle again outside of occasional seals and bearings. True you can build up a D60 too, but why? Now the other problem with going to a D60 is that they're setup for leaves not coils. It would be far easier to run a coil setup than deal with all the frame geometry that would come along with converting to leaves. Now is this on a 4x4 or 4x2 screw? if its 4x2 coils would definetly be the way to go since the 4x2 is already running coils and would obviously be the suspension to stick with. Bottom line you can do the D44/9" swap for $2000-3000, the D60 swap is going to be probably in the neighborhood of $4000+ and the D44 would probably be easier to swap in.